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Post questions and info about pneumatic (compressed gas) powered cannons here. This includes discussion about valves, pipe types, compressors, alternate gas setups, and anything else relevant.
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Unread postAuthor: POLAND_SPUD » Sun Feb 13, 2011 7:49 pm

Image
ohh I guess I didn't need MS paint after all... Above is the loading mech I used on the semiauto MKIII

Sure it used a QEV but I guess you can modify it to work just like tech's QDV... so it would be a coaxial and the bolt would also be the piston at the same time... a movable bolt should be a lot easier to implement than a moving barrel

I hope you get the idea... you pull the bolt all the way back to load ammo then move it all the way forward and fill he chamber. When you want to fire it you either pull the bolt

though technically it would probably be the best idea to have a spring that pulls it back. Add a small latch that keeps the bolt in place when the gun is loaded and ready to fire and you've got a pretty decent gun
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Unread postAuthor: nadjatee1996 » Sun Feb 13, 2011 7:52 pm

I like my valve design xD and the moving barrel adds to the cool factor, but I'm gonna have to have a pretty strong index finger. In the diagram, I forgot to add a spring behind the trigger. You guys know a place where I can buy springs?Only ones I got are the ones I get from murdering innocent pens
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Mon Feb 14, 2011 1:28 am

nadjatee1996 wrote:I like my valve design xD


... but probably have yet to aquire the material knowledge to flesh it out. For the umpteenth time, try to work within your capabilities and budget.

You guys know a place where I can buy springs?


eBay.
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Unread postAuthor: nadjatee1996 » Mon Feb 14, 2011 3:17 pm

No, actually, I figured how to incorporate the valve into the barrel xD

And I'm on a 60 dollar budget, at my current estimations, barrel, air chamber and other materials will be around 45 dollars.

Also, biggest questions here, are annealed metal good or bad? Where can I find 0.6cm tubing for the barrel?(looked a McMaster, unsuitable) and where can I find some workable metal to build a body frame?

I'm also greeted with the main problem ( there aren't any more from what I can see), if I attach air tank to the gun, is there a way that I can manually open and close it? If I use quick connect there, air will already be feeding through to the neutral position of the clippard valve. Ex- when not firing, air is leaking because quick connect is always on I was thinking of how I can also connect the air tank to the feed when I pull the trigger, but I don't really see how that's going to work if I want my air tank to be detachable ( feature can be removed though, if one of you guys have an idea of how I can pull in and open air tank valve when trigger is pulled)



Heres a brief summary of how it works so JSR won't think I'm a noob xD

Air tank is hooked up to a feed. Valve is in neutral position. When trigger is pulled, it pulls the valve to firing position and air floods the barrel. When barrel is pulled back, magazine also loads another round into barrel( I forgot to draw an O ring there, but there's one behind and in front of where the round would be). Spring will spring valve+barrel+trigger to neutral. If trigger is held, auto fire will ensue.

From what I see, my biggest concern( besides the problem with the airtank) isn't skills, its the ability for me to get the materials
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Unread postAuthor: irisher » Mon Feb 14, 2011 6:00 pm

I think your price estimates may be a little hopeful. It is possible to build guns on the cheap but when you add up all valves, fittings, glue and other raw materials there is a good chance of you breaking $100.
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Unread postAuthor: nadjatee1996 » Mon Feb 14, 2011 6:06 pm

I got the shraders, my valve will literally be made up of the same material as the barrel, I discovered how cornstarch and water will make a good filler. I just need to figure out the air tank

Any help on controlling the airtank? Quick question when I convert 0.6 CM to inches, it says 0.23622, rounding up is 0.243, but reverse converting only equals to about 5.99999 mms

Will this work?:
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Unread postAuthor: POLAND_SPUD » Mon Feb 14, 2011 9:48 pm

you want to move the barrel which is a relatively heavy part. No offence, but it just isn't the best idea.
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Unread postAuthor: nadjatee1996 » Mon Feb 14, 2011 9:58 pm

I'll figure it out, but will the air tank work if I use a piston like that?
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Unread postAuthor: Crna Legija » Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:00 pm

you new to draw better designs idk wtf is going on in that one and are you going to use a 3way and qev or a blowgun?
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Unread postAuthor: nadjatee1996 » Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:15 pm

I designed my own valve..I believe its similar to a Clippard valve

Also, since I'm gonna use a plastic made of cornstarch and water, my total becomes 59.64 for all materials, no including BB's. and if I ask around, maybe that plastic can be used to make a grip, further decreasing my amount by like 23 bucks
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Unread postAuthor: POLAND_SPUD » Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:39 pm

So you want to use a direct acting valve right ? one that switches as fast as you can pull the trigger right ?? well, it isn't the best idea - performance will suck

Personally I think you should just get a small QEV and MJVO-3. That's a foolproof design - you can't fu** it up even if you try really really hard

Not that experimenting is a bad thing but if you invest a lot of time and $ in your design and in the end you won't be satisfied with the result

Quick question when I convert 0.6 CM to inches, it says 0.23622, rounding up is 0.243, but reverse converting only equals to about 5.99999
Google fail :D
You could have calculated it yourself - then it would be ok
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Unread postAuthor: nadjatee1996 » Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:42 pm

MJVO-3???

And, yea, I'm gonna experiment with this one, since I'm basing this off of Cerberus, the gun in GunBlade, this gun's twin might use an entirely different design

And no, I used like Google, a few online ones and my iTouch converter, all popped back the same results, but 1in = roughly 2.5 cm so meh, I can do it myself

lol, we're posting at the same time
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Unread postAuthor: POLAND_SPUD » Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:51 pm

http://www.clippard.com/store/display_d ... sku=MJVO-3
It's a pretty cool 3way valve - cheap and has good flow. I wish I could get it in europe for the price you can get it in the US

1" = 25.4mm
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Unread postAuthor: nadjatee1996 » Mon Feb 14, 2011 10:54 pm

I'm gonna stick with mine for the time being, mainly because I spent like a week pondering of a valve that would work, but I'm might use that valve when I construct its twin..this valve that I modified/created is my brain child...
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Tue Feb 15, 2011 12:58 am

POLAND_SPUD wrote:you want to move the barrel which is a relatively heavy part. No offence, but it just isn't the best idea.


Still, it's been used succesfully before. In the case of the Anics A-3000, the barrel is in effect the hammer (which explains the agricultural trigger :roll:)

As to a barrel, airsoft barrels aren't that expensive, but if you find a model or hobby shop that sells brass and aluminium tubing you will find it cheaper.
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