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Hammer valve endeavour

Post questions and info about pneumatic (compressed gas) powered cannons here. This includes discussion about valves, pipe types, compressors, alternate gas setups, and anything else relevant.
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Hammer valve endeavour

Unread postAuthor: Gun Freak » Wed Jan 11, 2012 8:54 pm

Alright so I'm building a hammer valve, finally.
I've been flooding other threads about it, so I'll just make a new one.

The valve will most likely be a McMaster 1/8" push button. Operating pressure of 260 psi max, unless my fridgy can do more (doubt it).

The part I'm working out is the striker.

I've started the improved drawing... made ammends to the striker length and spring adjustability. But I'm stuck on how to construct the striker such that the weight can be adjusted and a screw can be threaded into the side. Any ideas?

I will be using a 2" long spring, or somewhere around that. These CAD drawings are very precise... but in reality it probably won't be such. This is conceptual so far, so some things will likely change as I start the build.
McMaster part 9657K121 is basically the spring I am aiming for (although I won't be ordering 12 of them :P ).

The max adjustment length as you can see is 2.5", so that the spring is only compressed a 1/4" by the 3/4" long striker. This is obviously not enough compression to significantly accelerate the striker, so it will likely never be adjusted to said length. The shortest I can adjust the spring length is 1.75", so that when it is cocked, the spring is 1" long (an estimated max compression length). So, the adjustability will give me full control over the strike strength and power, from lowest to max.

I'm thinking I will first construct the highly adjustable prototype hammer assembly, then once I fine tune it, I will reconstruct some parts with fixed properties, such as weight and length, in an effort to simplify the final product.

Here we can discuss my project. Thanks :occasion5:
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Last edited by Gun Freak on Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:33 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Unread postAuthor: evanmcorleytv » Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:12 pm

I wish you well!!
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Unread postAuthor: Gun Freak » Wed Jan 11, 2012 9:27 pm

Thanks, any ideas for the striker?
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Unread postAuthor: warhead052 » Wed Jan 11, 2012 10:30 pm

Make a firing pin. Sort of easy to do right? (just modify my picture a bit to make it easier.) Red is the spring to release the pressure on the valve, black is the body, and grey is the pin.
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Unread postAuthor: Gun Freak » Wed Jan 11, 2012 10:38 pm

No.... You see, you're missing the whole point :D

Stick to my proposed concept please :wink:
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Unread postAuthor: warhead052 » Wed Jan 11, 2012 10:39 pm

I dunno what you mean though. Make it a bit clearer?
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Unread postAuthor: Gun Freak » Wed Jan 11, 2012 10:42 pm

Sear retained striker. Keep adjustability in mind. I'm trying to make it as efficient as possible, which means eliminating bouncing, being able to control dwell time, among other things.
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Unread postAuthor: warhead052 » Wed Jan 11, 2012 10:48 pm

Well, take a piston from a airsoft sniper, and modify it to your needs. Add a couple vent holes so it doesn't build pressure, and I would say your good to go.
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Unread postAuthor: Gun Freak » Wed Jan 11, 2012 10:55 pm

Yeah, because I have spare airsoft snipers.


:roll:
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Unread postAuthor: warhead052 » Wed Jan 11, 2012 11:20 pm

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Unread postAuthor: Gun Freak » Thu Jan 12, 2012 6:28 am

Dude, come on! Be serious.

I can build a striker for a dollar. Why the hell would I buy one.
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Unread postAuthor: warhead052 » Thu Jan 12, 2012 11:07 am

Ease of use, plus if you build it right you can reuse it as a piston for a pump or something.


Edit,
Well, here's another idea. An inline striker. The notch on the bottom is for your sear, and the red is a metal plate. That way you can make it out of a light weight plastic, and prevent damage to the striking face with a metal plate or a bolt head.
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Unread postAuthor: Hawkeye » Thu Jan 12, 2012 12:38 pm

I'm not sure how complicated this has to be. You just need a solid cylinder of metal that's a slide fit in your metal tube that will house it.
Not that hard to find.
A brass nipple can house the striker and you can use an end cap with a hole drilled in it so that the striker can be pulled back by hand much like some single shot .22's.
You can readily experiment with a variety of springs or even have a couple of notches for your sear to engage to vary how long a "swing" the striker can take at the valve pin.
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Unread postAuthor: Gun Freak » Thu Jan 12, 2012 1:53 pm

Facepalm warhead... Pacepalm... Did you even read the OP :?

Hawkeye, I have a new idea, I like it much better. It's very simple. I don't need any more help for it.
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Unread postAuthor: warhead052 » Thu Jan 12, 2012 2:41 pm

Your OP doesn't make much sense...
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