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Post questions and info about pneumatic (compressed gas) powered cannons here. This includes discussion about valves, pipe types, compressors, alternate gas setups, and anything else relevant.
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Unread postAuthor: Monkey621 » Sun Nov 26, 2006 6:57 pm

The female quick disconnect was for air filling. I have a blowgun on the sprinkler valve but I think I'm going to put the female quick disconnect back on for filling and use the ball valve on the sprinkler, I don't know what the blowguns pressure rating is but when I gas up the gun air slowly leaks out of the back of the blowgun.
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Unread postAuthor: Petrie » Sun Nov 26, 2006 7:01 pm

if you mean that air is leaking from where the hose connects to the blow gun you could try using some teflon tape
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Unread postAuthor: pyrogeek » Sun Nov 26, 2006 7:27 pm

What was the modded sprinkler valve doing, when it wasn't working? Was it still firing, or what? Maybe post pictures of the valve of where you drilled the hole.

Good job for your first cannon. Next time try to find clear primer. Even if you make a little mess, it isn't noticeable. Or you can always paint it.

Try to get the valve working modded, it should make a big difference.
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Unread postAuthor: Monkey621 » Sun Nov 26, 2006 10:39 pm

I bought a new sprinkler valve and modded it. I forgot to mention it. The problem with the blowgun on it is that air is leaking out of the hole, not the threads or sprinkler valve. I was going to replace it with the ball valve that IS pressure rated. It works even with that slight problem, it just gradually loses pressure. Other than that it works greatly, I just don't have a compressor. I have a 10 gallon air tank though. To get it filled I have to use a 12v emergency compressor, the gas station, or my neighbors compressor :? . I know that's a dwv reducer but it's all my local stores have. I don't fill it up past 60 psi anyways.
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Unread postAuthor: SpudStuff » Sun Nov 26, 2006 11:02 pm

Don't take that above 40 PSI. The reducer in the chamber is DWV. That fitting is not pressure rated and is MUCh more likley to fail. The DWV is for Drain, waste, and vent piping. Not for pressure. All of your fittings should say NSF-PW on them.
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Unread postAuthor: Monkey621 » Mon Nov 27, 2006 1:09 am

I'm glad I haven't been killed. I checked all my parts for NSF-pw when I purchased them but must have overlooked the reducer. Before I noticed it I had taken it upto 100 psi and 80 psi several times. I'll stick with 40 psi as a precaution.
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Unread postAuthor: -Skate- » Mon Nov 27, 2006 10:05 am

I discovered I actually had a Solenoid valve laying around in my garage that worked perfectly.
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Unread postAuthor: Monkey621 » Fri Dec 01, 2006 9:08 pm

What does that have to do with anything?

Edit: Here is an Idea I have for a piston valve I want to do on it. I was going to cut of the DWV reducer and get a new bushing and 2" pieces. The black bushings on the left side is a 2"-3/4" pipe reducer, the one on the right is a 2"-1" female threaded. The entire thing is housed in a 2 inch tee.

Image
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Unread postAuthor: noname » Sat Dec 02, 2006 11:30 am

You'll need a huge pilot valves for it and it will open slowly anyways, but ti would work. This design has been thought of before. Just stick with the normal (better) kind.
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Unread postAuthor: PVC Arsenal 17 » Sat Dec 02, 2006 9:43 pm

It wouldn't work as good because it's preventing the air pressure from helping the piston move backwards.
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Unread postAuthor: noname » Sat Dec 02, 2006 10:37 pm

Unless you put a piece of pipe between the two quarters and tighten it down.
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Unread postAuthor: Monkey621 » Sun Dec 03, 2006 2:32 pm

noname wrote:Unless you put a piece of pipe between the two quarters and tighten it down.


What exactly do you mean by that? I'm switching the design over anyways, using a cut-down 1.5" coupler attached to a 1.5" endcap. They were both going to be actuated by modified sprinkler valves though.
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