Login    Register
User Information
Username:
Password:
We are a free and open
community, all are welcome.
Click here to Register
Sponsored
Who is online

In total there are 60 users online :: 4 registered, 0 hidden and 56 guests


Most users ever online was 155 on Mon Aug 15, 2016 1:40 am

Registered users: Bing [Bot], Google [Bot], MSNbot Media, Yahoo [Bot] based on users active over the past 5 minutes

The Team
Administrators
Global Moderators
global_moderators.png CS

Metal slider valve design and construction, help.

Post questions and info about pneumatic (compressed gas) powered cannons here. This includes discussion about valves, pipe types, compressors, alternate gas setups, and anything else relevant.
Sponsored 
  • Author
    Message

Metal slider valve design and construction, help.

Unread postAuthor: )DEMON( » Wed Nov 08, 2006 7:36 am

I want to make a slider valve for and piston valve exhaust. I liked the design of clides semi auto paintball gun, the main part is the slider valve: http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=160& . I don't need a gas through slider valve, I only need it to exhaust. I have a design shown below that is made out of a few various bits that fit together and should keep pressure.

These valves have good characteristics, like they are compact and open and close fast.

clides semi auto has a constant air supply with a compressor, does his slider valve completely seal? I don't have machening equipment but I still should be able to get one working.

So has anyone got any ideas on the construction and design of this valve? Brian?
  • 0

Attachments
slider valve..JPG
Slider valve design
Forever dreaming...
User avatar
)DEMON(
Major General
Major General
 
Posts: 1391
Joined: Sun Mar 12, 2006 1:22 pm
Location: Johannesburg South Africa
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: POS » Wed Nov 08, 2006 5:25 pm

Nice design indeed. Only one problem I think, I guess the holes and the O-rings won't go together. I think the holes will block the slide due to the O-rings which will be forced in by their own tention. (if you know what I mean ...) Maybe cuts in the lenght of the pipe will help solve that problem. I like that concept a lot.

The part between the holes and the endcap could be filled up, to reduce the pilot volume.

Maybe I make one of those some day.

But.. Instead of the combination between copper and PVC, I will only use PVC

Look at my pic :

1= 32 mm PVC
2= 40 mm PVC
3= 40 to 32 mm PVC reducer ring
4= O-ring
5= long cuts instead of holes
6= 32 mm endcap

This is easier to make, and I guess it will work bether, cause of the cuts instead of the holes. The hard thing will begetting the O-rings in place, and cut out the reducer rings so the O-ring fit in them.
  • 0

Attachments
slidevalve.jpg
slidevalve.jpg (15.54 KiB) Viewed 990 times
User avatar
POS
Major
Major
 
Posts: 395
Joined: Thu Sep 14, 2006 4:19 pm
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: schmanman » Wed Nov 08, 2006 5:31 pm

Is it for the exhaust on your shotgun? the design looks like it would work just fine. pos, I don't get what you are saying. (Nice diagram, looks like that design would work too.)
  • 0

Persistence is a measure of faith in yourself
User avatar
schmanman
Major General
Major General
 
Posts: 1685
Joined: Sat Mar 25, 2006 12:28 pm
Location: Michigan,U.S.A
Country: United States (us)
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: POS » Wed Nov 08, 2006 5:44 pm

it can be used as a pilot valve of any pneumatic. You could get wider pipes to get a better flow though.

What exacly don't you understand ?
  • 0

User avatar
POS
Major
Major
 
Posts: 395
Joined: Thu Sep 14, 2006 4:19 pm
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: Brian the brain » Wed Nov 08, 2006 6:26 pm

I have made a similar valve.I used a copper T, with reducers on both ends.I put two short pieces of pipe in the reducers, sticking into the tee a bit.I placed rubber hose over the ends of the pipe ( on the inside of the tee) and slid a 12 mm pipe with a hole in it through the two 15's.

It sealed very well thanks to the hose, but it was kinda difficult to open it fast.
  • 0

Gun Freak wrote:
Oh my friggin god stop being so awesome, that thing is pure kick ass. Most innovative and creative pneumatic that the files have ever come by!

Can't ask for a better compliment!!
User avatar
Brian the brain
Moderator
Moderator
 
Posts: 3494
Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2005 2:06 am
Location: Holland
Country: Netherlands (nl)
Reputation: 29

Unread postAuthor: )DEMON( » Thu Nov 09, 2006 1:20 am

POS wrote: Only one problem I think, I guess the holes and the O-rings won't go together. I think the holes will block the slide due to the O-rings which will be forced in by their own tention. (if you know what I mean ...) Maybe cuts in the lenght of the pipe will help solve that problem.


I did realize this problem as the o rings will be forced out of place and into the holes somewhat and be unable to get back onto position. I could cut slits into the pipe with the thin cutting disk on my angle grinder. I also think I will make a larger on out of pvc for now, it will be better for tinkering with. I get the same size pipe you have POS. In your diagram it looks like you have designed o ring groves that will have to be cut with a lathe. You need 40mm links to go over the 40mm pvc befor you can put the reducers in.

I propose you cut the reducer in half so you can put and o ring between the two peices. I think you will also need to wear down the inside diameter of the reducers a bit with sand paper.

I am a little doughtfull if the valve will seal perfectly although I guess you could make it do so. Brian, could you please make a simple diagram?
What size copper did you use? I tested and oring on copper pipe to see if it slid alright, I added grease and it worked with no effort.
  • 0

Forever dreaming...
User avatar
)DEMON(
Major General
Major General
 
Posts: 1391
Joined: Sun Mar 12, 2006 1:22 pm
Location: Johannesburg South Africa
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: killagorrila99 » Thu Nov 09, 2006 2:37 am

Looks fine, It should work great.
  • 0

"I'm sorry, Mr.Bush cant come to the phone right now, He's playing cleudo with Mr. Cheney And he has him in the Cupboard with a broom stick" -White house receptionist.
User avatar
killagorrila99
Brigadier General
Brigadier General
 
Posts: 1101
Joined: Tue Jul 25, 2006 2:35 am
Location: Australia.
Reputation: 0

Sponsored

Sponsor
 


Unread postAuthor: POS » Thu Nov 09, 2006 5:49 pm

Demon, i didn't actualy made this valve (yet) I just tried to design one, taking out the possible problems in the first design. PVC is easier to handle then copper. So I would make it out of pvc. And of caurse, it will need links, unless you use pipe with inner diameter of 40 mm. It exists. I found it on a Dutch site. Store isn't far away from me (92 km)
  • 0

User avatar
POS
Major
Major
 
Posts: 395
Joined: Thu Sep 14, 2006 4:19 pm
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: )DEMON( » Fri Nov 10, 2006 2:28 am

Links will work fine.

I am aware you didn't make this valve but I must have posted in a way which made you think differently.

What size o-rings do you suppose I should get? If I get tight ones, smaller than the outside diameter of 32mm I might run the risk of them forcing themselves into the slits. If I get large ones or the same size the valve might not seal. Should they be thick or thin?

They will slide with no problem because I will use grease.
  • 0

Forever dreaming...
User avatar
)DEMON(
Major General
Major General
 
Posts: 1391
Joined: Sun Mar 12, 2006 1:22 pm
Location: Johannesburg South Africa
Reputation: 0

Unread postAuthor: schmanman » Fri Nov 10, 2006 2:25 pm

go for slightly under size. at least It should seal that way.
  • 0

Persistence is a measure of faith in yourself
User avatar
schmanman
Major General
Major General
 
Posts: 1685
Joined: Sat Mar 25, 2006 12:28 pm
Location: Michigan,U.S.A
Country: United States (us)
Reputation: 0

Return to Pneumatic Cannon Discussion

Who is online

Registered users: Bing [Bot], Google [Bot], MSNbot Media, Yahoo [Bot]

Reputation System ©'