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Syncronizing dual 2" porting valves

Post questions and info about pneumatic (compressed gas) powered cannons here. This includes discussion about valves, pipe types, compressors, alternate gas setups, and anything else relevant.
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Syncronizing dual 2" porting valves

Unread postAuthor: mobile chernobyl » Sun Dec 03, 2006 4:50 pm

Is there a need to syncronize dual barrel sealing "T" valves (i.e. "mauler"ish in design)? I'm planning on making my biggest cannon yet over holiday break and it will be rather big. to launch it efficiently i could either make a 3" chamber sealing "T" valve or dual barrel sealing "T" valves.

I guess the real question is make a 3" ported chamber sealing "T" valve or dual 2" ported barrel sealing "T" valve? the 3" will have a port area of 7.065" while the duals will have an effective area of 6.28". hmm. I'm guessing the 3" chamber sealing valve will take the cake, and then i won't have to worry about syncronizing the dual 2" and still come out with less effective port area.

I need some opinions here, anyone?
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Unread postAuthor: ProfessorAmadeus » Sun Dec 03, 2006 4:55 pm

You could use 1inch elbows and a 1inch tee and attach it to a regular sprinkler valve.
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Sun Dec 03, 2006 5:51 pm

In lamens terms: the bigger the valve, the better the power? Is that what your saying?
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Unread postAuthor: SquishY » Sun Dec 03, 2006 8:27 pm

Possibly but I would take two 2" porting barrel sealers, the using a sprinkler valve to pilot them is a good idea and since your'e going big why not? Go with the dual valves, aside from looking really nice I think it would give much better performance.
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Unread postAuthor: mobile chernobyl » Mon Dec 04, 2006 1:30 am

Yea i definately agree about the "cooler looking" aspect, but wouldn't a larger port area equate to more power? I've also got a 3" port barrel sealing "X" or cross style valve on paper that looks very promising and cheaper, and thanks to some reading on the spudtech forums, pretty easy to make. so what it really comes down to is dual 2" 's better for raw destruction performance than a single 3"er?
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Unread postAuthor: MisterSteve124 » Mon Dec 04, 2006 3:47 pm

I would think dual 2" valves would be better than one 3". And syncronizing 2 valves is not hard at all you just hook them both up to the same blow gun/ball valve with some hose.
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Unread postAuthor: Hayseed_Andrew » Mon Dec 04, 2006 4:52 pm

for a question like that, It depends on barrel size, because if you have a 3" barrel, there's no reason for two 2" barrel sealers, because the more dead space created by having to run them to one barrel would make them inferior to one 3" chamber sealer, however if you have a 4" barrel, go with the two 2"ers if its smaller than 3" you shouldn't even bother worrying and go with just one 2"
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Unread postAuthor: Velocity » Mon Dec 04, 2006 4:56 pm

Um... a 3" valve has more flow than two 2" valves...

Make a 3" porting barrel sealer for the best of both worlds
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Unread postAuthor: mobile chernobyl » Fri Dec 08, 2006 8:25 pm

OK the time to order the parts is coming soon and i need a definate answer on this. Sofar i'm confident with the 3" porting piston, but design one has me using about a 1800 cu in resevoir, design 2 has a 3000 cu in tank. obviously i want to make design 2, just because it will be... bigger? haha why else. so will a single 3" porting piston be sufficient? The piston design is simple, kinda ingenious, ill post it up with i get it drawn in solidworks soon, but the piston consists of a 3" end cap, about 3" of 3" sch 40 pvc, 2 slices of a 3" coupler, about 1" each (these are for making a "cobbs" style piston with orings) and the sealing surface will be a rubber sheet on the front of the 3" end cap. heres an idea i had for "filling" the piston to take away any extra space and make it more efficient... fill it with expanding insulating foam? haha i know it would most likely compress under the pressure inside a tank, but do you think it would at least succeed in taking away a good amount of space? its light thats the main benefit. if not how about a 3" end cap on the other end, but sliced down a little to lighten/give a spot for an o-ring.

lots of questions i guess, any help would be appreciated. if its not obvious yet, i'm just trying to make a very powerful cannon... cheaply, and simple enough to not look like a photon torpedo launcher from star treck.
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Unread postAuthor: MisterSteve124 » Fri Dec 08, 2006 10:50 pm

I dunno if insulating foam would work well. Plus its hard to use because it expands so much. But a 3" piston would be fine.
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Unread postAuthor: Hayseed_Andrew » Sat Dec 09, 2006 12:14 pm

If it expanded too much you could just cut it off. I like the idea.
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Unread postAuthor: mobile chernobyl » Mon Dec 11, 2006 4:35 pm

Here are updated pictures of the valve, the chambers im still unsure of.
valve sealed
[albumimg]260[/albumimg]

valve open
[albumimg]259[/albumimg]

better view of whole assmbly.
[albumimg]261[/albumimg]

let me know if theres any obvious flaws with this design, and ill ellaborate later. The design should explain itself, but i guess it could be confusing, it has 2 orings, and the bumper in the back is a loop of air hose that i have extra of for activating the solinoid pnuematically.
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Unread postAuthor: squeaks » Tue Dec 12, 2006 12:27 am

Yeah, that looks spiffy. That should be one mega porting valve. Personally, one of these days, I'm going to make a cannon with 2-3" porting valves so I can have a 4" barrel with no restriction. That though is going to be postponed 'cause I got christmas shopping to do.
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Unread postAuthor: Hayseed_Andrew » Tue Dec 12, 2006 5:38 pm

Why not just one 4" porting valve? That would reduce dead space, and probably be cheaper :?
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Unread postAuthor: squeaks » Wed Dec 13, 2006 1:34 am

Not cheaper. To make a 4" prting valve I would need oh, only a 6 INCH TEE!!!!!! DO YOU HAVE ANY IDEA HOW EXPENSIVE THOSE THINGS ARE!!!!

ok, now that that's out of me........
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