You could wrap all the shirts the same, with rubber bands or something and then make a loader so that after each shot they will fall in. Or you can make a breech loader.
As for the air, if you know people that play paintball, get some CO2 tanks and get a regulator(like$60-80) and then just hook it up that way.
As for the valve you can make one that is 4'' in and 2'' or 3'' out. As for the chamber 3' should be good, but I dont think you are going ot be able to get 5 shots at a decient pressure. If you want to get fancy, you can rig up a auto filling system that you wear in a backpack and a sprinkler valve and a pressure switch.
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I know a pretty good way to do all of this. I had the same problem figuring out how to shoot d cell batteries semi-automatically. I built a gravity fed box magazine. As for your chamber, don't use your compressor. Use a CO2 setup. Buy a female Palmer Stabilizer regulator and hook it up to your chamber. That's how most commercial T-shirt guns are made... Also, If it only needs to shoot 100-200 feet, either buy or make a 1"-1.5" piston valve. If you can't make one, buy one from here: http://bcarms.com/
PM me If you need anything else.
Well, I hate to be pampered, but I don't know what y'all are talking about, I've only made combustion spud guns and never pneumatics, if I can some how fill a co2 tank with an air compressor then fine, but I have to have a way to fill it as much as I need to, because I can't run down to a paintball proshop and have it filled after every 5 shots.
I really really REALLY need a part list and how to.
Heres another idea for you. I cant remember the name of it but make a rotary loader for the t shirts, like an old revolver how you play Russian roulette with it. Simply fire then twist, then fire then twist. But then there is the other problem of the air supply, hmm.
Airbeds... so many different uses
I don't want something very elaborate, just simple. Semi auto, that can shoot atleast 5 shirts with one fill. PSI gauge of course, and I can just stuff it down the barrel after each shot.
Maybe if I have a short barrel, it won't go so far and easier to get down the barrel?
because you only want about 150 feet, you will only need about a 2 or 3 foot barrel. if it is tight in 2.5 inch, use 2.5 inch.
buy a union and put that on the barrel, this will allow you to take the barrel on and off so you can breech load it.
connect the union to the valve, i would suggest a 1'' watermaster sprinkler valve or a QEV.
connect the valve to the chamber. the chamber is a piece of pipe with a end cap on it.
put it all together and there you go! you now have a breech loaded cannon made for around $50. its not semi-auto, but it will launch tee-shirts cheaply. if you dont mind it being a muzzle-loader, then forget the union and that makes it $15 cheaper.....
edit- if you want to be really cheap, you could use a ball valve and that would give just about the perfect volocity for tee-shirts. ball valve cannon that size would be expected to shoot about 200 feet.
Last edited by hi on Wed Apr 11, 2007 10:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
then use a sprinkler valve, it will seal right after for release the blowgun, like i said, put a big tank on your back. make it out of SCH80 pvc, kinda expencive and you will probably have to order it, but you could have a really ig, safe, and reliable air chamber.
its not semi-auto if you have to stuff a shirt down the barrel after each shot.
Airbeds... so many different uses
in my opinion it is, I just don't want to have to re-fill the tank with air, and I could make some bolt action mechanism that would work. All I need is a part list and how to on how to make a semi automatic pneumatic spud gun that is ran off of a tank, nothing more.
im bored, so ill do it....
6'' SCH80 end cap
3' of 6'' SCH80 pvc pipe.
6'' to 4'' bushing
4'' to 2'' bushing
2'' to 1'' bushing
modded sprinker valve. (just look around to find out how to mod one, its simmple and strait foward)
1'' to 2.5'' bushing
some 2.5'' pipe
glue the endcap onto the 6'' pvc, then glue the coupler on the other end. then glue the 6'' to 4'' bushing to the coupler. glue the 4''to 2'' bushing in the bigger bushing, then glue in the smaller 2'' to 1'' bushing. why do you need so many bushings? because they dont make 6''-1'' bushings. ( bushings make big pipe into smaller pipe.)
attach the sprinkler valve to the smallest bushing (you will need a 1'' nipple)
attatch the 1'' to 2.5'' bushing to the sprinkler valve.
then attatch the 2.5'' coupler to the 2.5'' pipe and then to the sprinkler valve. that should help you if you like my design.
Chambers and barrel
1. 2 - 3" end caps
2. 2 - 3" couplers
3. 3"x2' sch 40 pvc pipe
4. 2 - 3" slip to 1" threaded bushing
5. 5 - 1" threaded sprinkler nipple (should be about 2" long with threads on both sides)
6. 2 - 1" sprinkler valve without a guide rod. (rainbird or orbit watermaster is good)
7. 2 - 1" 90 degree elbow (threaded on both sides)
8. 2 - 1" 90 degree elbow (threaded on one side, slip on the other)
9. 1" T (slip on either side, threaded in the middle)
10. 2" slip to 1" threaded bushing
11. 2" coupler
12. 2" sch 40 pvc (this is the barrel and can be anywhere from 3 to 10 feet long short is loud, long is fast)
1. 2 - brass 1/4" threaded to 1/4" barbed hose adapter
2. 2 feet of 1/4" ID braided vinyl tubing
3. 2 - brass 1/2" threaded to 1'4" barbed hose adapter
4. 1/2" T all threads
5. 2 - 1/2" threaded nipple
6. 1/2" slide valve
7. 4 hose clamps to fit over vinyl tubing.
8. 1/4" threaded shrader valve
9. brass 1/2" to 1/4" bushing.
10. 1/2" ball valve
the schrader valve can be found on McMaster-Carr.com
the slide valve can be found on ebay or McMaster
Last edited by keep_it_real on Wed Apr 11, 2007 10:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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