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.22 deformed barrel

Post questions and info about pneumatic (compressed gas) powered cannons here. This includes discussion about valves, pipe types, compressors, alternate gas setups, and anything else relevant.
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.22 deformed barrel

Unread postAuthor: joe blogs » Tue Apr 17, 2007 5:53 pm

If i weld a bolt onto my.22 gun barrel which i am using for my next pneumatic will it deform the barrel?

if i weld a bolt onto my ball valve will it create much leakage?
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Unread postAuthor: Pete Zaria » Tue Apr 17, 2007 5:56 pm

I don't understand your question. Can you please elaborate on or rephrase it?

Peace,
Pete Zaria.
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Unread postAuthor: n00b » Tue Apr 17, 2007 7:46 pm

What is the material for and dimensions of the barrel? (I am assuming you mean metal, but plastic can also be welded)

Also, it seems that brazing would be a more appropriate method of attaching anything to a ball valve, as they usually have a brass housing. Actually, it may be better to avoid attaching anything to a ball valve using heat, for fear of warping the components. (the steel ball inside will expand at a different rate than the brass housing, possibly causing something like engine heat seize)

-n00b
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Unread postAuthor: From_Hamsterdam » Tue Apr 17, 2007 8:51 pm

brazing would be the strongest option but you could also use a epoxy resin if it is easier.
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Unread postAuthor: AmYisroelChai » Tue Apr 17, 2007 9:14 pm

Joe I think you confused e/o. What exactly do you want to do?

Pete Z has much experience in barrels and can be of great help as can others. But try to be clearer so they can directly answer your questions. :wink:
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Unread postAuthor: joe blogs » Thu Apr 19, 2007 10:41 pm

I have a mig welder and i was wondering if i welded on a bolt onto the ball valve so that i could attach it to the stock,would it screw up the plastic inside and consequently leak.

I also want to weld a bolt onto a .22 gun barrel for the exact same reason will the heat from the welder distort the rifling in the barrel
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Unread postAuthor: cdheller » Fri Apr 20, 2007 2:14 am

"I have a mig welder and i was wondering if i welded on a bolt onto the ball valve so that i could attach it to the stock,would it screw up the plastic inside and consequently leak."


the plastic seals in ball valves fail at much more than soldering tempatures but you can take ball valves apart. and remove the seals ,there will be a seal under the handle stem nut also.

the sealant/locktite used on ball valves requires heat to disassemble .
without heat you will mangle them.

?I'm guessing you either have a steel or iron bodied valve if your planing to weld on it?
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Unread postAuthor: joe blogs » Fri Apr 20, 2007 4:38 am

how do you take a ballvalve apart?
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Unread postAuthor: chaos » Sat Apr 21, 2007 8:19 pm

i have a feeling this wont turn out so good....

Pull it apart,
ball valves vary in models some you can only pull the tap off, and other like the ones i have can be completely disassembled by undoing four main bolts.
the seals in ball valves should withstand the heat.

why are you welding to a cast iron piece? there's a reason it was cast and machined in the first place...

the sealant/locktite used on ball valves requires heat to disassemble .
without heat you will mangle them


true but not, with some ball valves, as i said they vary on type.
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Unread postAuthor: cdheller » Sun Apr 22, 2007 8:54 am

for a 2piece ball valve.

you'll need a torch and at least 2 pipe wrenches.

a bench or pipe vice and 1 pipe wrench makes it easier.

clamp it in your vice with the removable seat pointing up .

the stem/handle needs to be placed in the vice to keep the valve from spinning in the vice instead of clamping real hard on the valve.

heat the valve body area where the seat is blowing your flame up , not down toward the valve.
when it gets hot enough the seat breaks loose fairly easy.

after throwing it into a can of water turn your valve to off . the slot ontop of the ball should be lined up where the ball can be shaken out

take the handle nut , handle ,and packing nut off the stem and push the stem into the body and out of the valve.

there will be some kind of a seal for the stem and the 2nd ball seal left .

you should end up something that resembles this pic below


http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/productIndex.shtml

a couple of these split ring clamps might be a easer way to hook every thing together
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Last edited by cdheller on Sun Apr 22, 2007 9:15 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Unread postAuthor: chaos » Sun Apr 22, 2007 9:11 am

cdheller, man i see your pic and cant help picture your face... only some require you to do that, some are as simple as 4 bolts and its apart, no heat, no mess, no need for a vice.
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Unread postAuthor: cdheller » Sun Apr 22, 2007 9:40 am

chaos
"i have a feeling this wont turn out so good.... "

"cdheller, man i see your pic and cant help picture your face... only some require you to do that, some are as simple as 4 bolts and its apart, no heat, no mess, no need for a vice. "

I'm with you on both
except I'ld just strap or clamp the rig down and be done with it.

the pic on my profile is Bubbles from the Canadian tv show Trailer Park Boys
he's a trip
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Unread postAuthor: Bubba05 » Sun Apr 22, 2007 10:22 am

@joe blogs the sort of heat genarated by a tig welder is going to servearly F@%K your .22 barrel. .22's dont even survive house fires dude so you gunna kill it!

Bubba
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Unread postAuthor: LucyInTheSky » Sun Apr 22, 2007 10:24 am

You should trt and just solder it on as the temperatures are much lower.
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Unread postAuthor: chaos » Sun Apr 22, 2007 10:29 am

screw that, iono why u chose for a rifle/ball-valve combo you could have just cut the barrel off clean and flat and then make a piston/ much easier aye.
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