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Question about supah and mauler valves.

Post questions and info about pneumatic (compressed gas) powered cannons here. This includes discussion about valves, pipe types, compressors, alternate gas setups, and anything else relevant.
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Question about supah and mauler valves.

Unread postAuthor: us sniper » Tue Jul 17, 2007 7:30 am

Does anyone know how much psi that either of the valves can handle? Also would I be able to make one out of a 1 inch copper tee. Also does anyone know how to take the brass part off the paintball tanks?
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Unread postAuthor: spanerman » Tue Jul 17, 2007 7:42 am

125psi, and yes you can make a piston valve out a 1inch copper T, not sure on the paintball tanks tho
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Unread postAuthor: lukemc » Tue Jul 17, 2007 7:50 am

Supah and mauler valves are brand names they are professionally made piston valves. So if you want to make one it would be referred to as a piston valve. Any well made piston valve can usually take as muck pressure as the pipe its in.

Now for you making one, you cant make a piston valve in side a copper tee. it has been done plenty of times just look at the pneumatic showcase.
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Unread postAuthor: Gepard » Tue Jul 17, 2007 7:52 am

All you had to do was go onto the product pages and it'll tell you.......

lukemc wrote:Any well made piston valve can usually take as muck pressure as the pipe its in.


SGort found the mauler's cracked above 125psi actually so that isn't the case.......


Michael
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Unread postAuthor: rna_duelers » Wed Jul 18, 2007 1:19 am

And the Mauler Valves are machined using a wood lathe,not very precise.125psi and it failed,wow there needs to be some design put into that oh and do you no were abouts the valve failed?
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Unread postAuthor: Gepard » Wed Jul 18, 2007 6:47 am

I posted the exact email Gort sent me in the Supah and Mauler Pressure Rating thread - I can't be asked to look it up :D

To be fair the conponents aren't designed to have things slammed into each other. And I think it's very likely that Joel has the same problem 'cept I don't think anyone's asked him.....

Michael

EDIT: Also you don't need axtremely precise tolerance on these valves - I mean the fact that people make 'em by hacking at stuff in a drill sure proves that theory......
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Unread postAuthor: frankrede » Wed Jul 18, 2007 4:30 pm

Gepard wrote:I posted the exact email Gort sent me in the Supah and Mauler Pressure Rating thread - I can't be asked to look it up :D

To be fair the conponents aren't designed to have things slammed into each other. And I think it's very likely that Joel has the same problem 'cept I don't think anyone's asked him.....

Michael

EDIT: Also you don't need axtremely precise tolerance on these valves - I mean the fact that people make 'em by hacking at stuff in a drill sure proves that theory......
Hacking with a drill?What part would they do that on?
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Unread postAuthor: Gepard » Wed Jul 18, 2007 5:09 pm

No "Hacking at stuff IN a drill" someone on here said they put their piston in a drill and then starting hacking at it to cut the o-ring grooves.

Michael
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Unread postAuthor: rna_duelers » Thu Jul 19, 2007 4:10 am

They might of done that to there own valve,but these are a marketed valve they should have very tight tolerances and build quality because who would want to buy a valve they know wasn't machined or manufactured to high standards?.And components are not meant to be slammed into each other I agree but that has to factored into the design so it doesn't fail when this happens because it's the nature of the valve things slam into each other!
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Unread postAuthor: chartreusesnot » Thu Jul 19, 2007 4:19 am

Michael said "No "Hacking at stuff IN a drill" someone on here said they put their piston in a drill and then starting hacking at it to cut the o-ring grooves.

Michael"

That would probably work, i put a carrot on my dremel, and took a knife to it, and managed to cut out a little goblet, and martini glass. Dubbed "poor man's carrot lathe"
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Unread postAuthor: lukemc » Thu Jul 19, 2007 8:07 am

chartreusesnot wrote:That would probably work, i put a carrot on my dremel, and took a knife to it, and managed to cut out a little goblet, and martini glass. Dubbed "poor man's carrot lathe"


you "lathed" a carrot? Genius! put a potato on that and cut spiral grooves down it so instead of a rifled barrel have a rifled projectile!
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Unread postAuthor: Gepard » Thu Jul 19, 2007 9:14 am

Rna_dualers,

Your confusing build quality and tolerance. One is not the same as the other. I agree that the build quality should be high but you don't need tight tolerances at all as long as your within a mm that's fine - and that sort of tolerances can easily be achieved using a wood lathe. Using my metal lathe (and even my mill) without the toolpost (ie like a wood lathe) I can achieve even less than that. Doesn't take much skill just the right tooling.....

Just 'cos you buy something off professional it doesn't mean it should have tight tolerances - the tolerances are determined by the product's nature and that's why I mentioned about the drill 'cos piston valves don't need that high a tolerance.

And components are not meant to be slammed into each other I agree but that has to factored into the design so it doesn't fail when this happens because it's the nature of the valve things slam into each other!


Huh? PVC fittings are tested and designed to sit here with water or some other liquid at X psi. By making a piston valve were due to the moving parts the fitting experiences extreme amount of stress - you lower the pressure rating. The valve only fails when it is used above it's new (lower)pressure rating which I'm sure you'll agree - 125psi is a fairly high pressure. And it is designed to take this new pressure and thus the stress caused.

Michael
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