Thanks JSR

I didn't post it here because its still incomplete.

If you open the breech with your left hand and insert the projectile in the barrel with your right hand, whats holding the gun?

You also want to limit the bolt travel. In your design, if you let go of the bolt in the unlocked position, the barrel will fall out.

I think what you need is a more efficient launcher. Using a better valve and higher pressure will allow you to decrease chamber size while maintaining decent power. The majority of the weight of my launchers was, until now, in the barrel. What is your primary ammunition? Perhaps an aluminum barrel w...

AircannonSweden wrote:I think 5/8 and 3/8 is the same thread....

5 / 8 = .625
3 / 8 = .375

.625 ≠ .375

Capish?

So what kind of tools do you have if you can't afford a 5$ extractor? Its a must have anyways. If I were you and didn't have the extractor set I'd use my dremel cut off disc to make some slots in the broken off piece, jam a piece of metal in the slots and rotate it. If that does't work you might as ...

How about buying wood and start making chips :D Its the fastest way to gaining experience and realizing what tools you really need. Apart from what you already have I would definitely invest in a decent router with some attachments. It can serve as a jigsaw, drill press and it leaves a good finish s...

why not just open it with the rod movement no spring no need to a respect bar. I already answered you... I forgot to mention its supposed to be a spring driven mech... thats why I'm having trouble with it. A direct link between the trigger and some lever would be a lot simpler but I'm going for con...

I didn't even think of that... no I'm not trying to go semi. This is what I managed to come up with... http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/5420/des1.png Pivot points are red and the reset bar is yellow. Its still got a major problem of high leverage ratio which means I need a strong spring and the trig...

Yes but the problem is when you press the trigger, unable to reset sear, not enough mass to open the valve, if spring was strong enough you would just get 1 big hiss of air, Well... the sear could be reset with a spring and the whole mechanism with a reset rod mounted somewhere on the lever. Mass i...

If the trigger was facing that way I wouldn't be asking for help :D I think I described it well enough... but heres some perspective on my dimension drawing anyways. http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/7678/tavor21.jpg And just for the heck of it... this is what I meant in my earlier post... http://i...

Maybe a lever behind the valve and an inline strker below the valve hitting said lever? Or have the main spring attached to the lever itself and have a sear hold it in place... but such a sear would need a trigger press coming from the back. Thats something I can't pull off in a bulpup with any of ...

That would be almost the same as direct link method... depending on the speed of the trigger pull the valve opening time would vary and this is exactly what I'm trying to avoid.

It doesn't really have an advantage in my application since I have a clear path to the trigger guard.

I used to have a comfy 80mm of space behind my schrader pilot valve so fitting a striker mechanism was not a problem... but after a redesign and replacement of the fittings with PN50 rated stuff I was left with only 14mm behind the piston stem. Now I need some sort of mechanism that will fit in this...

Perhaps I didn't explain the situation good enough... imagine a standard piston valve... once you vent the pilot and chamber, the high pressure air remains in the area between the piston body and piston housing between the 2 O rings. The air then pushes on the O rings to make a seal... O rings are p...

I've had some bad experience with dual O rings... there seems to be a great tendency for air to get trapped in the area between the 2 O rings so the piston gets stuck in the housing.

How did you avoid this in your design MrCrowley?