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I can't believe I never saw that, excellent
Time to differentiate between a machine gunner and a sniper.
I can understand trying to achieve a high rate of fire, but surely being a 'sniper' who just hoses the field down takes a bit of the realism out of the game?
I think a gun set up to deliver only 5-10 shots as accurately as possible over the longest distance you are likely to be playing at would suffice.
Play the part if that's your role.
Gees, I though that this thread would die after the Chuck Noris bit, but NO!
Where to start...
First off, a paintball barrel is no more accurate then a piece of pvc. The main factor is the ID of the pipe. The closer inner diameter to paint diameter match, the more efficienct and accurate the gun is. Ideally the paintball will only contact the barrel at its seam, yet not allow much air past. I will try to find the best match at HomeDepot, either 1/2" sdr, 120sch 3/4, or 3/4 cpvc. As for "extra range" with an Apex, I plan to make my own (see first post pic). The material the barrel is made of (ie friction) only slightly affects efficiency. The advantages are that it is cheap, I can make it the best length for max efficiency, I can attach a silencer, hop up, and whatever other do-dads I want.
I do not EXPECT the gun to reach 20 bps, but it is definatly possible. The limiting factor, like most of you said, is air flow. The 1.5" bolt case could be increased to 2". None of the numbers in the plan are set in stone, just put to get a relative idea. I am shooting for 12 bps with the current design. I may use a home made external reg IN addition to the on board one. The purpose of this it I want to be able to ajust the velocity (and range) without having to fumble around with the remote CO2 tank on my back.
As for the "automatic sniper" paintball is played by "accuracy by volume", and always will be. Because the liquid and capsule spin at different rates, after about 150 yd (on most guns) paintballs will usually gyrate out of countrol. I designed this valve/mag setup to cover many fields of play. The components could easily be switched out os the "sniper" case and into a "assult rifle" case. The performance would be the same, of course, but it could be more compact. Who wants to be stuck with a super accurate, big, slow sniper in close-quarters combat? Or an assult rifle at 200 yds in a thick forest? Do you want victory with a Jack-of-all-trades or realism and defeat?
Also, I an starting to lean toward using a QEV. Congrats, you may have discoraged me . Still, how would I pilot the valve while still maintaining a constant sorce of air? I plan to route the pilot air to the mag, so that the pressure is maintained, possibly eliminating the piston.
In order to use the qev and a constant air source you need a three way valve that allows the air to flow through the qev, but when it is activated it closes off the air and open an exhaust port. This allows for semi-automatic fire with a qev. As for the difference between long distance rifle and an assualt rifle just use an extending stock, like the one on the m16. This allows for both the comfortable long stock for distance and the compact stock for close combat.
Ah, no - Chuck Norris is the inverse to Godwin's Law. Mentioning Chuck Norris automatically wins you the argument, but somehow keeps the thread going.
Paintball is normally played by accuracy by volume, but I know a lethally accurate pump player. And when he ran out of 12g bulbs for his pump and borrowed an evilly fast marker
Nothing in the world can ever be as cool as having watched that. If you imagine multiplying the Matrix by Equilibrium, adding on Kung Fu Hustle all to the power of Terminator 2 - and you still wouldn't even have 1% of 1% of the awesomeness.
The universe is still damaged by having to contain that much pwnage in one place.
Accuracy by volume is important, but it shouldn't detract from skill. If you're sniping, then firing 6 more shots before the last one even hit would feel like cheating to me.
I haven't played PB that often, but when I'm going for accuracy (quite often), I fire in bursts of two or three - sometimes only 1 shot if I'm really going for it.
I kind of like my money to stay in my pocket, and I learnt the first time I played that just spraying everywhere costs a lot with little result. It's fun, but seeing your cash disappearing at £6 for a hundred balls - and that's quite a good UK field rate - isn't. So, I tend to fire conservatively, and treat myself to rapid fire only occasionally, and usually nearer the end of the day. Still keep back some PBs for HEAL though - seeing (or not seeing as the case may be) paintballs going nearly Mach 1 is great fun.
Does that thing kinda look like a big cat to you?
Take a leaf out of the Ruskie's book, their VSS Vintorez 9mm sniper rifle is an accurate single-shot weapon at medium ranges, but when the going gets tough it retains the full auto option of the assualt rifle it's based on.
notice there is no air supply connected to the inlet port,
This valve is MODIFIED internally but nothing to impair its structural integrity. Added a return spring between the Shop Air Trigger and the piston and a nick in the edge of that piston skirt with about 1/32" dia area to LEAK air and allow pressure to equalize on both side as the air chamber refils. Otherwise the main valve won't close.
US Sniper - Thanks, I was pretty sure that was how it's done.
Lol. I agree. I also tend to be conservative, and fire in bursts. Again, auto mode is only for very breif, money-burning moments of cheating. I wonder how I could make a burst mode (w/o a solunoid)?
Grumpy - Hmm, that is an idea. Does not seem to hard to impliment either. Should I use this or a three way? And should the gun be all metal, metal and PVC, or mostly PVC?
honestly my knowledge of qev's is limited as the cannon i am currently building is my first time using a qev. the mod was sugested by a fellow paintballer on another forum, and i have done it to my qev and it works great. i did quick throw together chamber to test it and am very happy with it . i did find out in doing research on the qev that the one in the picture wich is the one i have will do 600 cycles per minute, i would asume however that this rate can only be acheived with some electronic assistance. as far as a three way valve i don't anything about them so i can't say wether one will give you a better rate of fire or not.
your gun might be more readily accepted if you use mostly metal and resemble a paintball marker as much as possible
Grumpy, could I get a link to that "other forum"? And thanks for the ROF info, that is just what I needed. 10 bps should be more than enough for semi-auto. I think I will do something very similar to the pic you posted, as it has the least possible pilot volume, and the chamber area is metal. I will probably use PVC for everything in front of the QEV, though, as I can't machine metal to make o-ring grooves for the bolt. If I used 330 psi- rated pvc, 300 - 500 psi rated metal pipe (aluminum, copper, or steel?) , and a 125 psi rated QEV, could i run the gun at 350 psi?
And, excuse my ignorance, but what is the purple-and-clear thing above the 4-way pipe?
don't think you will need 350 psi, remember you will be playing paintball, and i don't know about the paintball fields where you live but the fields here in fla. do not allow you to shoot over 280 fps, and even just playing in the woods with friends keep it under 300 fps. you can realy hurt someone if your fps is to hi, i have the scars to prove it to. not to mention most fields if they catch you will through you out, and you will most likely be met in the parking lot by someone you shot. now if you are just plicking at targets thats ok kick it up see what damage it will do. just play nice with other players that way everyone has fun.
the thing you asked about above the fourway is a regulator, it is how we control the velocity on our cannons, you will need one on your also to be legal may also have to have a safety popoff valve also.
here is the link you asked about, the member you want is called
Head Hunter, he's a prety nice guy that doesn't mind sharring info.
this is the thread you want. http://forums.warpig.com/phpbb/viewtopi ... 41&start=0
Thanks for the link. THATS the regulator? I knew I needed one, I just did not recognise it in the pic. And yeah, 350 psi is for supersonic paintball target shooting, not splattering peoples guts out.
Also, in the QEV mod you mentioned, can it do semi-auto as well as full-auto? From what I understand, the CO2 would just continue to go through the barrel as long as the trigger is held down, unless a strong spring was used.
think of a spinkler valve and the little hole in the diaphram that lets the pressure to the pilot valve and chamber equal out and keeps the diaphram closed. it is basicly the same thing, the qev in this form would only give you semi auto, to get both semi auto and full auto you would have to go electronic. it may be easier to use paintball marker parts to build what you want. this is a home made paintball gun that used an airsoft guns shell and the internals of a paintball marker.
click the pick to make bigger.
It's been 2 months, and I now know a lot more than when I first started out. I also have many more questions and design improvements. I will post them as I draw them.
To start off, we all know and love BTB's Deathray Marble Machine Gun. He came up with the "blocker-bolt", which I thought would be excellent for paintball use, as it would prevent chopping as long as the paintballs are fed properly.
However, unless I am missing something, this design allows air to escape from the feed, which would crush paintballs inside of a hopper. I came up with a different version to get around this problem. Would this work? See any problems?
One problem I noticed is that there is a short period of time between when the bolt starts moving and when it opens fully that there is a gap between the barrel and bolt. Would this cause any unwanted spinning or other complications?
Another thing is that the distance between the paintball has to travel between triggering and firing is rather large (.326 inches), as that is the thickness of the bolt. This means the paintball could still be partially in the hole in the bolt when it is being pushed from behind. See the animation.
Third, the bolt is rather thin in proportion to the normal blow forward,meaning that there is little area for air pressure to act upon to push it forward. For the low pressures I will use on-field (10-30 psi), will that be enough to cycle quickly?
Also, I found another problem in my design. In the current animation, the bolt could rotate so that the feed hole would not line up. This should be easily fixed by cutting a shallow groove halfway through the bolt which would line up with a protrusion of the red blocker. Or, I could just add a guide in the bolt on both sides of the red blocker.
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