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Primer Bubbles???

A place to ask general spud cannon related questions.
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Primer Bubbles???

Unread postAuthor: spudy buddy » Mon Jan 14, 2008 11:40 pm

ok, i primed and glued my cannon and let it dry for 24 h like sugested. when i started testing it i noticed that right where the fiting and the pipe form a seam that there were bubles. they were hard so were not from the air. is this normal??? also the threaded male adapter conecting the valve and chamber started leaking before i even fired once at 15 psi??? was it cause of the bubles or what? note that it was my first ever joint with pvc cement, but i did all the rest the same way so whats going on? if you guys need diagrams i'll draw some i guess but i think you get the idea.
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Unread postAuthor: elitesniper » Mon Jan 14, 2008 11:42 pm

your supposed to put Teflon tape on the threaded fittings
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Unread postAuthor: spudy buddy » Mon Jan 14, 2008 11:45 pm

no not that end the other end conecting the male adapter to the rasr of the chamber. and ya i used PTFE tape on the threads.
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Unread postAuthor: MrCrowley » Mon Jan 14, 2008 11:46 pm

Did you twist the fittings 90 degree's when joining them together? That gets rid of bubbles and leaks, spreads the glue over evenly and stuff.

Did you put teflon tape on the threads? Plenty of it?

Did you screw the fitting tight? It's only plastic on plastic so you can be rough with a monkey wrench or something, just make sure it's on very tight.


Edit: Sounds like you didn't twist the fittings 90 degrees when joining them. Happened to me once as well, took copious amounts of epoxy to hold it up to 120psi. :roll:

Oh no, i've inherited JSR's vocabulary :D
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Unread postAuthor: spudy buddy » Tue Jan 15, 2008 12:00 am

well i twisted it but the sudden pipe pushout startled me as it was my first joint. its not leaking from the threads. when it starts leaking it starts smelling like nail polish remover or something. how can i fix this? can i fix this without epoxy by aplying alot of cotes of cement? or would i be better off just cuting off the pipe and buying a new male adapter? i'm not asking for a lot of preasure 40psi max. would hot glue hold? probably not but any ideas are welcome.
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Unread postAuthor: MrCrowley » Tue Jan 15, 2008 12:05 am

Just buy a new fitting.

What do you mean it startled you? It's not a homeless bum on the side of the street in a dark, damp, cold alley way chucking a near empty bottle of gin in a brown paper bag at you while you walk past and toss him a quarter with a stylish flick of the thumb :roll:

Did you hold them together for at least 30sec?

Hot glue wont work.

Just get a new fitting, I hear they're cheap in America :)
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Unread postAuthor: spudy buddy » Tue Jan 15, 2008 12:14 am

what i ment was when i started pushins them together the pipe all of a suden almost came compleatly apart and so i ramed them back together as hard as could and held them like that for like a min and a half(i had to be sure that they wouldn't come apart again when my back was turned)(i swrear there were aliens or something just pulling on them or something)lol
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Unread postAuthor: SpudBlaster15 » Tue Jan 15, 2008 3:54 am

Sounds like you applied an insufficient quantity of cement to the joint, or failed to penetrate the surface of the fitting or pipe with primer.

In that case, twisting the fitting as you bottomed it would not have helped the scenario. I find that if the surfaces are pre-dissolved, and sufficient layers of cement are applied, the "twist" is not necessary. My PVC solvent welds created without the twist have held close to 200PSIG without developing any leak channels.

As far as the bubbles; PVC cement has a high percentage of volatile components. When these evaporate, a considerable volume of "filler" is lost, which can result in the development of small air pockets around the outside of the joint.
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Unread postAuthor: jimmy101 » Tue Jan 15, 2008 4:06 pm

I agree with spudblaster, the bubbles frozen in the "squeeze out" glue at the joint is not a problem.

The only thing you really need to be concerned about with the glued joint is whether or not you got the pipe far enough into the fitting. You really need to get darn close to the full fitting depth.

Do you know how far you got the pipe into the fitting? Can you see inside the fitting to double check?

I usually mark the depth of the fitting on the piece of pipe using tape. (A pencil or pen won't work because the primer will erase them.) The tape tells you exactly how far you have to get the pipe into the fitting, and as an added bonus, protects the part of the pipe that isn't getting glued from primer stains. Painters tape works great since it doesn't leave any sticky residue when it is removed.

Gluing PVC isn't all that hard but it also isn't trivial. It'll take a few joints before you get comfortable with how much force is required and to get used to the tendancy of the joint to push itself back apart (which is unexpected).
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Unread postAuthor: MrCrowley » Tue Jan 15, 2008 4:21 pm

You should also try doing the IPEX solvent welding course, floating around somewhere on the site. You get a free pen and certificate once completed. :)
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Unread postAuthor: clide » Tue Jan 15, 2008 4:44 pm

Also chamfering the edge of the pipe before you glue it helps prevent leaks. Leaving a sharp edge can scrape the glue as it goes in and leave a path for leakage.
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Unread postAuthor: spudy buddy » Tue Jan 15, 2008 7:54 pm

ok guys i am just plain old stupid!!!! :violent1: :sign3: i took the adapter off(that is i unscrewed it) and it had bottomed and not scraped off any glue, so i began wondering how it could be leaking and came to the conclusion that it wasn't, not from there any ways. i checked all the other fitings and thay were good. :? i checked the blow gun and thats where it was! :lol: i fixed it with more tape but then the solonoid hole started leaking. i was mad :evil: then i started laghing when i noticed that the hole was pluged with masking tape. i almost wet myself. i mean how stupid can you get??? i tried sealing it with a lot of stuff but altimately failed. so i just spun the blow gun around the outher way(it was turened so that it was like a triger and had a custom grip[made out of paper machay with a slingshot as the mold]that was perfect but awell i'll use it on my piston bb gun(more info on that in my topic "piston question"". i took that off and screwed in the solenoid and now it doesn't leak anymore. yay! :D thx for all of the help and sugestions guys. :)
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Unread postAuthor: LikimysCrotchus5 » Tue Jan 15, 2008 7:59 pm

I find this topic ironic :lol:

I think you should post pics next time, definately would help solve your problem sooner.

Id suggest plugging it with epoxy because it might leak again, poobily through the threads.

We all have our moments :roll:
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Unread postAuthor: MrCrowley » Tue Jan 15, 2008 8:04 pm

Water is not only healthy, it's darn good at finding where spudguns leak :P

Haha that gives me an idea for a low budget TV show...

When Spudguns go bad! duh duh duh

On this episode of WHEN SPUDGUNS GO BAD...

Spudy Buddy tries to block a solenoid with masking tape, duh duh duh

anyway... :roll:
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Unread postAuthor: spudy buddy » Tue Jan 15, 2008 8:45 pm

ya ya lagh it up that's got to be one if my "special" moments right up there with puting on a shock colar(my friend had the remote and he can't resist a good laugh at others expence) and some other "special" things i've done in the past.
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