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Silencers, Who has them?

A place to ask general spud cannon related questions.
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do you think silencers are...

STUPID
2
18%
OK, but not wrth the trouble
1
9%
AWESOME!
8
73%
 
Total votes : 11
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Unread postAuthor: sputnick » Sun Dec 14, 2008 10:47 pm

All the bang is gone from mine, the only thud is from projectile on target, the noise, which is about 50% reduced. what's left is a slightly high pitched whistle. When i get another barrel, without the silencer, i will make a sound recording and post it, but it is a very good silencer for the near no money required to make it. I will try to recrate yours though, it looks great.

are the vent holes in the cap neccesary? and can yo make each baffle isolated? so it looks more like the pics below?
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Unread postAuthor: STHORNE » Sun Dec 14, 2008 10:56 pm

your picture is the design of your average store-bought silencer. I have recreated this design over and over and it still doesn't compare with my other design i showed you.

And the vent holes in the back are necessary otherwise the air doesn't want to flow through the silencer, the force of the air just keeps on moving and goes out the barrel, making the silencer pointless. I found this out when i made the silencer without the back vent holes and decided to drill them. best decision ever (pertaining to my self made silencers). lol

anyway, good night
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Unread postAuthor: sputnick » Sun Dec 14, 2008 11:03 pm

I guess this will go unanswered untill tomorow, but one last question, if i made the baffles from something smaller and easier to work with and aquire than pop bottle bottoms, would the slightly smaller volume (1 1/2 inch tube) make a large difference? im just wondering because the end of my barrel is unsupported and so cannot take alot of weight. If you dont advise that i will just use a 2 lite pop bottle. i would sacrifice sound for size anyday.
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Unread postAuthor: pocket » Sun Dec 14, 2008 11:58 pm

i actually made a pellet gun silencer from the water bottle cap bottoms and pieces of 5/8 pipe as spacer and i was surprised by the results
crap im trying to upload an audio file but no extensions seem to work
answering your other question my rule of thumbs is bullet diameter x 4 = your silencer tube diameter
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Last edited by pocket on Mon Dec 15, 2008 12:02 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Unread postAuthor: paaiyan » Mon Dec 15, 2008 12:02 am

Just for the record, unless you're a Class II Firearms Manufacturer, making a silencer is illegal, and unless you have a tax stamp from the ATF, just owning one is illegal.
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Unread postAuthor: pocket » Mon Dec 15, 2008 12:03 am

yea i actually do have a tax stamp you think that if it was illegal i would openly discussing this. not that hard unless your a criminal they will give you the stamp
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Unread postAuthor: Gippeto » Mon Dec 15, 2008 12:07 am

Pocket;

Out of curiosity, what did the "tax stamp" cost you?
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Unread postAuthor: Xxplosive42o » Mon Dec 15, 2008 12:20 am

Here is a drawing of a silencer I created. The expansion chamber fills up with air that was pushed down the barrel and re-directed by the baffles. Then the air is then let out threw the vent holes on the exterior of the silencer located on the aft end. The expansion chamber section should be filled up with no less than steel wool. This concept is very similar to firearm silencers and has been proven successful in many tests.

I hope this will inspire and help all builders interested in the idea of silencing their cannons.

Cheers! -Xxplosive42o 8)

Image[/img]
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Unread postAuthor: raptorforce » Mon Dec 15, 2008 2:15 am

how do you make that kind of silencer
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Unread postAuthor: Carlman » Mon Dec 15, 2008 2:22 am

xplosive, firearm silencers do not have holes in the exteral wals for a reason, you do not need them it would mke it less efficient
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Unread postAuthor: Xxplosive42o » Mon Dec 15, 2008 2:29 am

The outside of the silencer or "shroud" can be constructed from PVC with wooden endcaps on each side. Make sure to drill holes in the shroud on the correct side to create the expansion chamber vents. The baffles could be built from plastic soda bottles by cutting the top piece of the bottle off (the top piece = the portion above the label). Then punch holes into the baffles to allow air to draft from baffle to baffle to finally exit the expansion chamber holes pictured above. Before sliding the shroud over the baffles to put into place, pack some steel wool in there and you're good to go! It's a simple design I came up with, but has worked pretty darn well.

I know Carlman, but I made both variations and the holes seem to help for some reason. I believe it might be the pressure that builds up in the expansion chamber... I dunno. But nonetheless through my personal experience with the design this has been the way to go. But to each their own! Cheers.
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Unread postAuthor: CasinoVanart » Mon Dec 15, 2008 2:41 am

STHORNE wrote:Image

yellow = airflow


But why the exhausts at the back?
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Unread postAuthor: raptorforce » Mon Dec 15, 2008 2:48 am

[quote=" Before sliding the shroud over the baffles to put into place, pack some steel wool in there and you're good to go! It's a simple design I came up with, but has worked pretty darn well.
[/quote]

why steel wool what does that do
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Unread postAuthor: Xxplosive42o » Mon Dec 15, 2008 3:07 am

Steel wool has been shown to aid is sound attenuation. That is why is has been used in everything from car exhaust silencers to vacuum cleaners. I am uncertain of the exact reasons, as I am not a expert in material research.

Hope that helps Raptor.
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Unread postAuthor: Lentamentalisk » Mon Dec 15, 2008 3:34 am

steel wool is used in situations where hot gases are involve, because it aids in cooling them. As every spudder should know, if you cool a gas, it contracts, so there is less of an explosion. That is why we can never hope to silence a pneumatic as much as a combustion, because there is still there sheer volume of gas to deal with. Steel wool will do next to nothing in a pneumatic, other than possibly make a little turbulence.
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