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2" chamber piston help.

A place to ask general spud cannon related questions.
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2" chamber piston help.

Unread postAuthor: screamingflea » Sun Apr 02, 2006 6:20 pm

First off, I have done some searching on the forums here and at spudtech and didn't find much. Anywho, I am trying to build a 2" chamber sealing piston. I am using the 1.5" T piston at advancedspuds as a reference. How in the world can you get the piston to slide all the way into the T. I tried borring it out to get the chamber to the middle of the T, that equaled a bad idea and there is no way for me to get the borred out area smooth enough for a piston to slide on the other side. And the piston is going to be made out of 2" pipe. I don't have a lathe, so I can turn down the pipe any. Any ideas on what to do? Thanks in advanced.---edit: Alright, I have the piston figured out. But one more question (as of yet), does the chamber have to come to the middle of the T, or can it stop at it's normal point? Is there any real perfromance differences? If it does have to come to the middle, then any tips on how to do a smooth borring job?
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Unread postAuthor: screamingflea » Wed Apr 05, 2006 5:12 pm

I am double posting as to bump and ask another question. I ended up making the piston from a 1.5" coupling. My question is, how tight should the piston be in the Tee? I only have one o-ring on it now, and I can't get it past the stop(duh), so I have to file that down. But how toght should it be once it fits, should I be able to move it by hand? Thankyou.
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Unread postAuthor: Atlantis » Wed Apr 05, 2006 6:46 pm

It's gotta be loose enough to slide somewhat easily. The O-Ring usually helps it slide, only the O-Rings really need to be airtight, not the piston itself.
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Unread postAuthor: screamingflea » Wed Apr 05, 2006 7:24 pm

Well, this T is ruined(I think), I got it to be where it neededto be, and there is a gap above the Oring, and it is fairly difficult to move once it gets to the desired spot. This is my second no-good try, this is making me frustrated. Thank you for your reply. Maybe I can find I thicker O-ring. And by the way, where do youall normaly find O-rings. If you want 3-4" ones, go the vaccume cleaner hose/bag section, but I couldn't find others. Maybe it was because I didn't know they could stretch so much, now I am just ranting.
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Unread postAuthor: Shrimphead » Wed Apr 05, 2006 7:28 pm

The vacuum cleaner section of what? I couldn't find the 3" o-rings that I needed locally, so I ordered them off of mcmaster.com
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Unread postAuthor: screamingflea » Wed Apr 05, 2006 7:33 pm

Of the hardware store, this was at lowes, the rings were actualy just round belts, but I am betting they would work. I actually don't remeber what size they were, maybe more around 4"-5"
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Last edited by screamingflea on Wed Apr 05, 2006 8:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Unread postAuthor: SpudStuff » Wed Apr 05, 2006 7:34 pm

try a three inch t with a 2 inch slide and a 1.5 inch end cap piston use a 1.5 inch input/output
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Unread postAuthor: screamingflea » Wed Apr 05, 2006 8:56 pm

I have a 1.5" end cap that I bought for that purpose, but it couldn't reach the chamber without opening the pilot area to the barrel. Anyways, let me make sure I have this clear. Buy a 3" tee, and sleeve two inch inside of it, then use that as a guide for the endcap, and try to buy the tee so that 2 parts are 1.5 inch or get the socket reducers? How would I get the 2" to effectivly sleeve the Tee? And some ingo tha might help. This is being made to go on a chamber that is from another cannon, the chamber is 2" diameter, app. 48" long, and had a 1" spig adapter for threaded into a sprinkler valve. I take it I will have to cut the spig adapter off. The barrel is 1.5" with 1" spig adapter as well, and that I want to keep, as where the chamber I would like to keep threaded, but it's cool if it isn't.
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