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Possible rifling made easy?

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Possible rifling made easy?

Unread postAuthor: zvallance1 » Sun Apr 16, 2006 12:28 am

Just had a totally random idea, so bear (bare?) with me as I try to get it all down before i lose it.

Would it be possible to rig up some sort of device that you could rifle a barrel with, rather than than just using a broom with nails in it?

I'm thinking a crank with a semi-large gear on it. then there are 2 gear on that gear...one of them goes off and is connected to a wheel with a rope or somehting around it (when the gear turned, the rope wraps around the wheel)
Off the other side of the main gear, you have it go from looking like _ to |

Not sure if that makes sense but the | is the gear that would make the pipe turn (sort of like its "rolling" on the gear)



So...when you turn the gear that goes to the wheel with rope around it will turn which makes the rope tighten (the rope is somehow attatched to the end of the pipe, I'll figure that out later), and while the pipe is moving forward, the other gear (the other one off the main gear) will be turning the pipe around, and all the while your the basic broom with the nails in it, inside the pipe at the other end.

Basically, when you turn the crank, you're keeping the pipe moving forward at a constant speed, while you're also keeping it turning at a constant speed.

Anyways, thanks for even reading this...i know the grammer was horrible, but i had to get this all down before i lost the idea, because from where i'm sitting, I cant see any reason as to why this wouldnt work effectively.

-Zev
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Unread postAuthor: Andrew52 » Sun Apr 16, 2006 12:37 am

well sounds like a good idea so you would hafe a consitet rifleing
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Unread postAuthor: zvallance1 » Sun Apr 16, 2006 12:52 am

Andrew52 wrote:well sounds like a good idea so you would hafe a consitet rifleing


yeah, I always that having to buy it from joel would be a hassle, so i figured that this would be reasonably painless, and would work just as well as him doing it, because i know that a barrel rifled incorrectly is almost as bad as having one not rifled at all.


Anyways, c'mon guys, let me know what you think of this! This is something i'd really like to do =) (assuming none of the mods or other experienced members see anything too wrong with it!)
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Unread postAuthor: CS » Sun Apr 16, 2006 1:10 am

All I got is there were gears used in it something similar to this:
<img src="http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/gear-bevel.jpg">

Im a visual person, so for me at least a diagram in paint or something would help alot.
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Unread postAuthor: zvallance1 » Sun Apr 16, 2006 1:16 am

pimpmann22 wrote:All I got is there were gears used in it something similar to this:http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/gear-bevel.jpg

Im a visual person, so for me at least a diagram in paint or something would help alot.


well, thats the second gear i was talking about. the one that would be turning the pipe

Another way to think about it would be like a bicycle...
the rear wheel which is normally turning would represent th first gear i was talking about, the one with the rope that tightens to move the pipe horizontally.

However, replace the front wheel with the the gear/bevel combo, and then but that onto the gear that you turn when you turn the pedals.

i hope that helps =)
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Unread postAuthor: boilingleadbath » Mon Apr 17, 2006 1:09 am

Well, I can only think of a few issues with it:

1: Rope is stretchy. Use cable.
2: You'll have to do all the cutting in 1 pass, which will require huge amounts of force to get reasonably deap cuts.
3: I'd expect some slipage between the pipe-rotating device and the pipe it's self.
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Unread postAuthor: zvallance1 » Mon Apr 17, 2006 3:52 pm

boilingleadbath wrote:1: Rope is stretchy. Use cable.
2: You'll have to do all the cutting in 1 pass, which will require huge amounts of force to get reasonably deap cuts.
3: I'd expect some slipage between the pipe-rotating device and the pipe it's self.


1.OK, Cable should be reasonably easy to attatch, so I'll look into that.
2. I don't think that the cuts have to be too deep to be effective...seeing as many people have done this by hand before without much trouble, I think its still possible (a motor could even be attatched w/o too much trouble if its too hard to to do by hand)
3. I was thinking about some rubbery material to use to rotate the pipe...somehting like the tube from a bike's tire...those generate (not sure of the word for that...have, maybe?) lots of friction..




Cmon all you senior members, lets hear your ideas!
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Unread postAuthor: SteamRoller » Mon Apr 17, 2006 3:56 pm

Sounds like it would be less trouble to get a old, used lathe
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Unread postAuthor: boilingleadbath » Mon Apr 17, 2006 7:43 pm

SteamRoller, do explain how you plan on using a lathe to cut rifling.
While most lathes do have automatic feed which can be used to cut threads, that'd be measured in <i>threads per inch</i>, not inches per rotation.
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Unread postAuthor: drac » Mon Apr 17, 2006 7:48 pm

You would need a really small TPI cut on the lathe if you wanted to get good rifling. HOW you would do that, is beyond me.
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Mon Apr 17, 2006 8:13 pm

Why not try to attach the barrel to a veribal speed drill, mount it steady, have your barrel resting on rollers so it turns smoothly, have your cutting tool in and ready to go, turn on the drill, walk away from barrel pulling the tool through, if it works waaa laaa, you just riffled the barrel.

How deep should the rifling be to be effective?
I'm guessing not to deep.

Sounds easy!!!!
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Unread postAuthor: zvallance1 » Mon Apr 17, 2006 8:19 pm

jrrdw wrote:Why not try to attach the barrel to a veribal speed drill, mount it steady, have your barrel resting on rollers so it turns smooth


well, how would you get the entire drill to go thru the barrel? unless you have a helluva long bit!!!

SteamRoller wrote:Sounds like it would be less trouble to get a old, used lathe


The name of this topic was "...made easy"
easy because you dont have to go out and buy a lathe and the tools for it, or if you dont even know HOW to use a lathe
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Mon Apr 17, 2006 8:36 pm

You missunderstand, the drill is mounted steady, it will only spin the barrel, you hold the tool in your hand and pull it through the barrel while the drill spins the barrel. When you walk away you pull the tool slow and steady. Thats why you need veriable speed drill, so it don't spin wild, just slow and steady, I bet it will work!
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Unread postAuthor: zvallance1 » Mon Apr 17, 2006 8:48 pm

jrdw, what you just descibed is almost exactly what i was tinking of, except my way would guarentee an even rifling, rather than you having to walk exactly the same speed and keep the broom with the nails in it, perfectly straight and level the entire time.

plus, how would attatch the drill to say, a 2 inch barrel?
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Tue Apr 18, 2006 5:31 am

Use a 2" hole saw, cut about 3" deep, run a 1/4" 20 tpi bolt about 5" long in the hole center to lock into the drill, 1 more bolt through the side of barrel hole and barrel to hold barrel in wood and make the assemble turn.
You will have to start out 3" longer to accomadate machineing.

Sounds good and solid in planing, just get it all together straight so it don't wobble.

As for pulling the broom through, maby lock the broom handle down and steady, and then pull the barrel and drill from the tool, with pratice you will get the hang of a steady pull!

Have faith in your skills!!! Be confident that you can make it work!!!

And if the first 1 don't turn out, keep at it, try it on 2' pieces 1st to get good at it without wasting alot of pipe. You could even take spray paint and paint the inside of your barrel, and then just scratch the paint to see how it goe's.

TRUST YOURSELF!!!
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