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Short question topic

A place to ask general spud cannon related questions.
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Unread postAuthor: Gippeto » Fri Aug 24, 2012 10:07 am

Goats...IF...you've drawn your trigger and sear reasonably accurately...give those bits a re-think.

You'll also want more than the one screw to handle the energy transfer of the striker...in the stock setup, the valve is "backed up" by the cartridge and a threaded end cap...giving the valve no where to go. This isn't the case with your drawing.

Otherwise...I'm liking where you're going with that. 8)
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Unread postAuthor: Goats spudz » Fri Aug 24, 2012 1:16 pm

Yeh the trigger and sear on the Paint drawing are 100% inaccurately drawn :wink:

I just wanted to know if there would be much movement from 0.20mm space
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Unread postAuthor: PaperNinja » Fri Aug 24, 2012 4:36 pm

How thick do walls need to be for BSPP male threading?
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Unread postAuthor: dewey-1 » Fri Aug 24, 2012 5:19 pm

PaperNinja wrote:How thick do walls need to be for BSPP male threading?


What pipe size and what pressure?
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Unread postAuthor: PaperNinja » Fri Aug 24, 2012 6:02 pm

I think 3/8" BSPP with little to no pressure.

Will I be able to have a male threading of 3/8" BSPP, (or really any size BSPP with the walls reasonably small) with an ID of 0.35"?
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Unread postAuthor: PaperNinja » Fri Aug 24, 2012 6:47 pm

Someone answer? :)





EDIT: I"m sorry, I should mean 1/4 BSPP
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Unread postAuthor: dewey-1 » Fri Aug 24, 2012 7:20 pm

PaperNinja wrote:Someone answer? :)

EDIT: I"m sorry, I should mean 1/4 BSPP


I knew not to answer you because you can not seem to keep things straight, changing your mind after you post.

Go to mcmaster.com and look under pipe/fitting. Then select what you want and you can select CAD files for dimensions.

When posting questions please provide a little more information than what you usually ask. It helps in providing a knowledgeable answer.
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Unread postAuthor: Gippeto » Fri Aug 24, 2012 8:43 pm

dewey-1 wrote:I knew not to answer you because....


Yer a fart smeller. :)

Or maybe that's smart feller? :wink:

Either way, I had a chuckle. 8)
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Unread postAuthor: dewey-1 » Fri Aug 24, 2012 9:12 pm

Gippeto wrote:
dewey-1 wrote:I knew not to answer you because....


Yer a fart smeller. :)

Or maybe that's smart feller? :wink:

Either way, I had a chuckle. 8)


It takes one to know one! :D
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Unread postAuthor: PaperNinja » Fri Aug 24, 2012 9:15 pm

dewey-1 wrote:I knew not to answer you because you can not seem to keep things straight


:oops:
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Unread postAuthor: doomburger » Sat Aug 25, 2012 11:15 am

Ok guys, so I wanted to use Rectorseal 5 for my threaded metal pipes, but the website I am buying from (grainger.com) states this:
"For Metal
Use primer to increase cure speed or to ensure proper cure on inactive metals."

Since stainless steel is an inactive metal, I will probably have to use the primer. Do I need to spread the primer on both the female and male joints (like pvc primer)?
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Unread postAuthor: mattyzip77 » Sat Aug 25, 2012 11:45 am

Just use regular pipe dope or teflon tape.
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Unread postAuthor: velocity3x » Sat Aug 25, 2012 12:47 pm

Rectorseal??
Sounds like something you can get only from a Proctologist.

Matty is right....pipe dope or tape.
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Unread postAuthor: Goats spudz » Sat Aug 25, 2012 1:03 pm

Paperninja it took me 3 seconds to find This
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Unread postAuthor: doomburger » Sat Aug 25, 2012 1:24 pm

Ah, I guess I will use the thicker pink colored tape as it seems to be for compressed air. Do I wrap the thicker pink tape just like the normal white tape? (5-6 times around) Thanks guys 8)
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