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spudgun range, are we falling short?

A place to ask general spud cannon related questions.
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Sat Apr 23, 2011 9:42 am

LeMaudit wrote:But if the grip open earlier (just like for dewey-1 sabot), the projectile will slow down while the sabot is still accelerating, risking to touch the tail and unbalance it. I'm not sure if I'm clear, this challenge my linguistic capabilities :D Were are my pencils....


I see what you're getting at but it should not make a significant difference.

Look at APDS rounds, the petals may separate but the base is still pushing on the projectile.

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Unread postAuthor: LeMaudit » Sat Apr 23, 2011 11:12 am

the petals may separate but the base is still pushing on the projectile.


:shock: I guess I'm wrong :D
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Unread postAuthor: LeMaudit » Sat Apr 23, 2011 11:30 am

Guys, I'm just back from the hardware store. Couldn't find exactly the bolts deway-1 draw on his 3D virtual model (reality stink sometimes ;-) ) but I found a nice assortment of various nuts & bolts.

One I find particularly interesting is nuts/bolts in nylon.
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Great weight saver, and they seem sturdy enough.
But do you think the nylon will melt with the heat of the shot in an hybrid?

I also found some aluminum bolts, "Chicago" kind.
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Sat Apr 23, 2011 11:39 am

Does it even have to be bolted? Can it just slot together?
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Unread postAuthor: LeMaudit » Sat Apr 23, 2011 11:54 am

Well.... it could... With a base a bit thicker, meaning a UHMW disk + a aluminum plate.

Bolts like those would add very little weight (1 bolt+nut nylon is 1.3 gram, chicago is 1.1 gram) and would keep the thing together for loading and during the shot. Because If the petals misalign slightly, the projectile will not fire strait.

I'm now thinking that the petals could even separate that way, just inserted in a slot :-) If the slot is deep enough, rigidity would be kept. And with a bit of air catcher plate thingy on the front to help the separation....

hmmmm........ too many options :shock:
And I was ready to cut! Damn... I need to find my pencils... :lol:

[edit] JSR drawing: basically yes, but it is much easier to slot the disc all the way and just insert the plate in it. But I can hear you! "Who said it should be easy?" :lol:

Sorry dewey-1, it's all JSR fault!
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Unread postAuthor: dewey-1 » Sat Apr 23, 2011 12:22 pm

LeMaudit wrote:Sorry dewey-1, it's all JSR fault!


Yes I agree!

JSR needs to calculate the weight for these designs as well.
Every thing so far exceeds the weight of the projectile. (if it is 100 grams)

I would like to see around 50 grams max and preferably 25 grams.
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Unread postAuthor: LeMaudit » Sat Apr 23, 2011 12:36 pm

Every thing so far exceeds the weight of the projectile. (if it is 100 grams)


It's 68 grams empty... but remember it is supposed to be filled with tungsten bits. So I expect it will weight more than that!

Half filled with lead, it's about 120 grams.

[edit] that's what we need! Tungsten powder!!!

[edit2] And it mix with epoxy!!! Oh goodie!!!!!
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Sat Apr 23, 2011 12:58 pm

LeMaudit wrote:And it mix with epoxy!!! Oh goodie!!!!!


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Unread postAuthor: LeMaudit » Sat Apr 23, 2011 1:09 pm

What you need is a French FAP filter
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Sat Apr 23, 2011 2:42 pm

LeMaudit wrote:What you need is a French FAP filter


:D :D :D

Well if it has particles in it...

Anyway, about the weight of the sabot, don't forget you can "add lightness" with some holes ;)
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Unread postAuthor: LeMaudit » Sat Apr 23, 2011 3:01 pm

Holy Holes... I almost forgot....
Let There Be Light!

I'm cutting some UHMW right now... :D
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Unread postAuthor: drex » Sat Apr 23, 2011 4:07 pm

I made this at work earlier this week I had a little bit of time to kill. the nose cone part is 1.250" and the tail part is .750" with a .5 inch id. it did tumble so it was not a success in that regard, however the sabot did separate quite nicely.

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Unread postAuthor: POLAND_SPUD » Sat Apr 23, 2011 4:23 pm

the nose cone part is 1.250" and the tail part is .750"
It probably has to be the other way round... Cg and Cp must be pretty much in the same place... if cp is not mroe to the front than cg
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Unread postAuthor: LeMaudit » Sat Apr 23, 2011 4:26 pm

Niceee... is it UHMW?

UHMW do machine nice and smooth, I used a carbide fly cutter so far.

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But the static is TERRIBLE

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Looks like it is snowing inside the workshop :lol:
Forget what I said about machining on a kitchen table guys... not UHMW... any wife, girlfriend, mother, sister of female living creature looking at the mess would KILLYA!

Any tip to share for removing the static? incantations? miracles?
the wife didn't see the mess yet... somebody??
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Unread postAuthor: drex » Sat Apr 23, 2011 4:33 pm

POLAND_SPUD wrote:
the nose cone part is 1.250" and the tail part is .750"
It probably has to be the other way round... Cg and Cp must be pretty much in the same place... if cp is not mroe to the front than cg


the cp needs to be at least one body width below the cg to be considered stable.


Niceee... is it UHMW?
its delrin
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