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spudgun range, are we falling short?

A place to ask general spud cannon related questions.
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Unread postAuthor: POLAND_SPUD » Sat May 05, 2012 2:21 pm

above 35mm is uncomfortable to machine on a small lathe
omg why use a lathe?? just use pvc/copper pipe, nose cone plus fins
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Unread postAuthor: Petitlu » Sat May 05, 2012 2:31 pm

Ok
So the 30 or 33 mm inside
33mm best ..
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Sat May 05, 2012 3:11 pm

POLAND_SPUD wrote:omg why use a lathe?? just use pvc/copper pipe, nose cone plus fins


The idea is to use existing pipe for the body and machine the nose cone and fins, the latter would be sort of... on a lathe ;)
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Unread postAuthor: POLAND_SPUD » Tue May 08, 2012 8:58 am

lol ramjet ammo - check the last two pages
http://www.dtic.mil/ndia/2004armaments/ ... n_COOP.pdf
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Tue May 08, 2012 9:59 am

POLAND_SPUD wrote:lol ramjet ammo


Comparing that to the Oto Melara Vulcano round actually ties in nicely with the scope of this thread.

Image

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ckj3Cc1fACc[/youtube]

It avoids the weight and complexity of having on-board propulsion such as rocket assisted rounds or the ramjet rounds you linked to, but still achieves tremendous range - 70km in a ballistic trajectory. By adding guidance that would allow the projectile to glide, this would extend it even further.

The Nazis were w-a-a-a-a-a-ay ahead of their time:
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Unread postAuthor: POLAND_SPUD » Tue May 08, 2012 10:23 am

2:00 - 2:12 -> I think they explain what I meantioned earlier as far as gliding ammo is concerned - it needs some sort of guidance

damn you JSR I though I found something interesting and then you post this

though I am pretty sure you find it even more fap worthy than I do
lol at first I wrote 'more fap worthy than me' but then I realised what would you do with that
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Unread postAuthor: dewey-1 » Tue May 08, 2012 10:38 am

POLAND_SPUD wrote:I think they explain what I meantioned earlier as far as gliding ammo is concerned
damn you JSR I though I found something interesting and then you post this


And you criticize my spelling! :D
Got you! Fat fingers or Vodka?
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Unread postAuthor: al-xg » Tue May 08, 2012 10:39 am

As a bit of a tangent from the reccord setting ranges, something like this would be pretty amazing fired from some sort of canon :)
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8jrqAo8Xa8[/youtube]

Of course larger bore, lower velocity and lower acceleration on launch would be requisites. You'd probably have to start off very slow, a lot could go wrong.

Anyone got some FPV gear ? :D
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Tue May 08, 2012 11:30 am

POLAND_SPUD wrote:2:00 - 2:12 -> I think they explain what I meantioned earlier as far as gliding ammo is concerned - it needs some sort of guidance


I'm quite sure that a properly trimmed projectile will glide without the need for guidance. The problem is that once you introduce lift dependent flight, the projectile becomes much more susceptible to environmental factors like wind and air pressure, so realistic accuracy is not achievable without guidance.

And you criticize my spelling! :D


He has the "but I'm not a native speaker! *hic*" defence :D

As a bit of a tangent from the reccord setting ranges, something like this would be pretty amazing fired from some sort of cannon


Awesome :D but it seems like a waste of RC gear for such a short flight.
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Unread postAuthor: POLAND_SPUD » Tue May 08, 2012 12:26 pm

He has the "but I'm not a native speaker! *hic*" defence
Hey I am a Pole but I haven't drunk anything (yet) :-D
Awesome Very Happy but it seems like a waste of RC gear for such a short flight.
Sure but if you think of it you might as well put two servos on a projectile ;-)
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Wed May 09, 2012 11:33 am

Lookie what arrived from down under :D

Pretty compact... my only concern is the coil, apparently it cannot be potted.

Dewey, help? I've never really put a circuit together before, any basic advice?

Image
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Unread postAuthor: dewey-1 » Wed May 09, 2012 5:42 pm

Where to start?

Assuming you have a soldering iron of 25 to 50 Watt and the correct rosin core electronic solder (60-40 or 63-37) of about 1mm diameter then please start reading these links.

First: http://www.mil.ufl.edu/5666/6270/6.270B ... npter3.pdf

Second: http://www.1728.org/resisclr.htm

I recommend doing the coil as the last item to solder.
Build it to what the instruction sheet shows.

Post close up pictures of resistors or other components if you have problems with them.

Here is some more information based on parts list.

http://talkingelectronics.com/projects/ ... acker.html

PARTS LIST
1 - 220R (Red, Red, Brown, Gold)
1 - 330R (Orange, Orange, Brown, Gold)
2 - 1k (Brown, Black, Red. Gold)
1 - 47k (Yellow, Violet, Orange, Gold)
1 - 220k (Red, Red, Yellow, Gold)
1 - 5p6 ceramic
1 - 10p ceramic
1 - 39p ceramic
1 - 1n ceramic
1 - 22n ceramic
1 - 10u 16v PC mount electrolytic (Note Polarity!)
1 - 22u 16v PC mount electrolytic (Note Polarity!)
2 - BC 547 transistors (Note Polarity!)
1 - BC 557 transistor (Note Polarity!)
1 - 5 turn, 3mm dia enamelled wire (Put in last!)
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Wed May 09, 2012 11:53 pm

Cheers!

Especially for translating the colour coding on the resistors...

Silly question, should I strip off the enamel at the point where I solder the coil?
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Unread postAuthor: dewey-1 » Thu May 10, 2012 12:59 am

Definitely yes.

The color code was easy to remember even when I learned it as teenager.
You should easily remember this too.
It was used by the US miltary Electronic instructors during WWII.

Bad-------Black
Boys------Brown
Rap#-----Red
Our-------Orange
Young----Yellow
Girls------Green
But-------Blue
Violet----Violet
Gives-----Grey
Willingly-White
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Unread postAuthor: Petitlu » Thu May 10, 2012 1:04 am

it is even more complicated for me!
:D
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