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Unread postAuthor: FighterAce » Wed May 25, 2011 6:25 am

I drilled from the other end that was flat - the side opposite to the hexagonal portion.

That worm screw is just like any other piece of metal.... it can easily be drilled with a drill bit :D
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Unread postAuthor: bennettjackson » Wed May 25, 2011 7:57 am

alright thanks, any special kind of drill bit cause i tried and only got about half way and it turned red hot and just wouldnt go anywhere
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Unread postAuthor: Hotwired » Wed May 25, 2011 8:23 am

bennettjackson wrote:alright thanks, any special kind of drill bit cause i tried and only got about half way and it turned red hot and just wouldnt go anywhere


One not made of cheese.

A HSS bit should be fine.

Mind you, if you're drilling a stainless steel jubilee clip screw that's going to be much harder than a mild steel one so take it easier or get hold of a mild steel clip.
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Unread postAuthor: Technician1002 » Wed May 25, 2011 10:01 am

Cutting oil is used to prevent heat by boiling way below red hot which will cause loss of temper and quickly destroy the cutting edge. Red hot metal is soft.

Time for a new bit and some cutting oil to do it right.

You can use a blow torch to heat a tempered steel spring and easly bend it with pliers into a new shape. You will need to temper it again to get the steel to behave like a spring again.
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Unread postAuthor: bennettjackson » Wed May 25, 2011 4:20 pm

how do i know what kind of screw it is?
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Unread postAuthor: jimmy101 » Wed May 25, 2011 5:21 pm

What is the barrel made out of?

PVC or metal, you should be able to either buy, or make, a sadle-t. (You can make one from a standard T by slicing half of the top of the t off). Glue or braze in place. Grind or file before fitting to get it to fit properly in your breach mechanism.

Image

The handle is then just a short length of pipe glued/brazed into the T. No hole is made in the barrel.

EDIT: fixed the image link.
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Unread postAuthor: FighterAce » Wed May 25, 2011 6:18 pm

That won't work if the inner barrel OD and outer barrel ID are very close ie. theres not much of a gap between the barrels.
The hose clamp method doesn't require a hole in the barrel... and if your barrel is metal and has at least 2mm wall, you could actually machine a recess for the hose clamp which would make it very secure and aestheticly pleasing.
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Unread postAuthor: bennettjackson » Thu May 26, 2011 10:03 am

thanks everyone i think i got it all set, i sleeved two 2" pipes together and slid it through a 2-1/2" pipe, all i need now is a way to create a seal when the ends of the pipe touch eachother, maybe a rubber washer?
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