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The Offcial Machinist Thread: Revised 01/04/2014

A place to ask general spud cannon related questions.
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Unread postAuthor: POLAND_SPUD » Thu Aug 25, 2011 5:50 pm

@ Gun Freak
I wonder how difficult would it be to make it on a drill press ?
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Unread postAuthor: Gun Freak » Thu Aug 25, 2011 5:54 pm

I wouldn't know, I don't have one :tongue3:
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Thu Aug 25, 2011 5:56 pm

@Gun Freak

You want somebody with a mill to do this.
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Unread postAuthor: Gun Freak » Thu Aug 25, 2011 6:03 pm

That's why I posted here :wink:
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Unread postAuthor: mattyzip77 » Thu Aug 25, 2011 6:24 pm

Your probably looking at like 15 20 bucks
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Unread postAuthor: Gun Freak » Thu Aug 25, 2011 6:44 pm

Matty... I did not ask you :?
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Unread postAuthor: ramses » Thu Aug 25, 2011 6:50 pm

Gun Freak wrote:I'm thinking about having somebody machine an aluminum block for me, it is 3/8" thick, 1.5" long and 3/4" tall (approximately, it will be actually a bit more) this is a simple drawing, can I get a quote from a few people?


Thank you SO MUCH. This is EXACTLY what we need to actually determine how hard it will be to do something. Does your idea reflect the fact that 1/4" NPT threads are actually a 0.403" dia and 1/2" threads 0.835"? (based on the thickness in the text of your post, I would guess not). The drill for that size thread is 23/32, which I don't think a lot of people have (so it will need to be bored). I would also like to stress what a pain in the ass it is to thread to the bottom of blind holes. My tap set would probably require at least 3/8" clearance on the bottom of the 1/2" hole, and 1/4 at the bottom of the 1/4" hole, unless I grind them off.

I just realized my mill is less burried than I though, so I would be willing to give it a go fore something like $15-$20, depending on tolerances.



As a sidenote about calipers, even the fancy Starrett or Mititusio ones are not to be trusted. Depending on how hard you push them, they can deviate by over .003". For serious measuring, use a micrometer or test indicator and surface plate with gauge blocks. But then again, we can measure to within 20 millionths (.00002") at work.
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Unread postAuthor: Gun Freak » Thu Aug 25, 2011 6:59 pm

Thanks Ramses, the design will be modified as a final to make it easier on the machinist. And no the measurements were not exact, I just went by the nominal diameters but I forgot about the 1/2" port in the bottom which would actually make it about an inch wide. Thanks for the quote, I'll provide an exact drawing and more details if I decide that I need this part (it's for a hammer valve that I have been dying to make but I don't know if I will actually do it or not).
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Unread postAuthor: mattyzip77 » Thu Aug 25, 2011 8:13 pm

Gun Freak wrote:Matty... I did not ask you :?


Not me directly, however, my price was right! And just cuz I just started making spudguns, doesnt mean I dont know how to use a Lathe. Actually, I learned how to use a lathe before you were a inch in yo daddys pants!! :wink:
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Unread postAuthor: Lockednloaded » Thu Aug 25, 2011 9:31 pm

Despite willdebeer's generous offer, I'll need a domestic machinist to cut prices. Anyone in the USA who can machine a 3/4" o-ringed aluminum piston for use in a hybrid. I will pay for shipping both ways + any machinist/material fee
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Thu Aug 25, 2011 10:00 pm

3/4" o-ringed aluminum piston for use in a hybrid


You got a blueprint ready? I got some 6061N ready to go...
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Unread postAuthor: Lockednloaded » Thu Aug 25, 2011 10:14 pm

I can send the piston housing, the o-ring and the sealing face to the machinist. It's a standard design, but I forgot to include the front must be tapped for a bolt of machine screw

Housing:
http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac26 ... 1e3bcd.jpg
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Thu Aug 25, 2011 10:23 pm

Tapping a hole is no problem. You still have to give me a basic design or you will get a o-ringed rod with a sealing face bolted to the front. If thats what you want, fine with me all the easier.
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Unread postAuthor: Lockednloaded » Thu Aug 25, 2011 10:54 pm

jrrdw wrote:Tapping a hole is no problem. You still have to give me a basic design or you will get a o-ringed rod with a sealing face bolted to the front. If thats what you want, fine with me all the easier.


Not much else to it. When you get the housing and ring, you'll have a better idea of the specs. It'll obviously have to be air tight, no leakage at all what so ever. Would you like me to pay to compensate for material and work?
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Thu Aug 25, 2011 11:22 pm

10 bucks will cover it, just include a prepaid shipping lable inside the box with the cylinder. I'll PM you my address, ship it to me when your ready.
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