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The real Spuah-Valve inside

A place to ask general spud cannon related questions.
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Unread postAuthor: mark.f » Mon Jul 10, 2006 9:47 pm

Fine. I'll post them. I just thought you guys might get all pissy because it's supposed to be a company secret or something...

BEHOLD!!!!!!

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PS: If you change your mind.... DELETE THESE PHOTOS MODS!!!! I didn't want to post them in the first place, but you guys said so, so hey...
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Last edited by mark.f on Thu Mar 12, 2009 11:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Unread postAuthor: SpudStuff » Mon Jul 10, 2006 11:26 pm

post pics of the inside of the tee
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Unread postAuthor: rna_duelers » Tue Jul 11, 2006 6:58 am

Thats cool,joel will probably be pissed off but who cares.
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Unread postAuthor: )DEMON( » Tue Jul 11, 2006 7:09 am

I am impressed with the quality of thos parts.Looks fairly simple to make allthough I don't know if the local hardwear stores will stock huge ass o-rings like that. Is that sealing back piece made from those pvc rods?
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Unread postAuthor: mark.f » Tue Jul 11, 2006 7:30 am

I don't have pictures of the inside of the Supah valve 3" tee, (it's unmodified), but here's a picture of a 2" pw tee I have for my next project...

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See where the inside of the slip decreases in I.D. diamter?

Most piston designs I see, (and quite a few of my first), don't take this into account. Technically, you could bore the slip to 2-3/8" to the center with a table press and a spade bit, but you really shouldn't because you don't know how that will effect pressure rating of the tee. That's why Joel's doesn't modify the tee, I believe.
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Unread postAuthor: SpudStuff » Tue Jul 11, 2006 11:15 am

how far back in the tee does the 2 inch pipe that the piston seals on go and how is it attached in the front of the tee

I can get you o-rings in 1/16" to 1" in thickness up to 3 feet in diameter if you need them
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Unread postAuthor: SpudStuff » Tue Jul 11, 2006 11:59 am

in this image you can see there is a piece of pipe extending back bet i cant figure out how it is atteched to the bushing

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Unread postAuthor: WOW!! » Tue Jul 11, 2006 12:34 pm

O crap i got it!!!!! Ok, the piston seals again the bushing or the pipe, the brown thing on the back is a big check valve, when you pump it up it fills, and when you go to relase the air it closes and bam. I bet some pople kow this but I feel spcial, lmao.

EDIT- o wait, then how does it close off the outlet? crap lol
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Unread postAuthor: WOW!! » Tue Jul 11, 2006 2:07 pm

It is drving me crazy.....
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Unread postAuthor: SpudStuff » Tue Jul 11, 2006 2:29 pm

no the brown is foam to reduce the piolt volume and lighten the piston
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Unread postAuthor: SpudStuff » Tue Jul 11, 2006 2:41 pm

the design is so simple and it would be incredebly easy to make.

knowing that te tee is a spears brans i can creat a coustom sacle in Visio and get aproximent measurements
The only thing i can't figure out is what the piston seats against. it appears to be a piece of pipe extending back into tee ~half way

also is the o ring grove in the piston elevated from the large diameter part of the piston.

you should make a quick drawing of the valve
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Unread postAuthor: Velocity » Tue Jul 11, 2006 3:49 pm

I always knew that the supah valves were just chamber-sealing piston valves... but jeez... that is an original way to build it
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Unread postAuthor: SpudStuff » Tue Jul 11, 2006 5:02 pm

it is the first time any one has posted pics of the inside
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Unread postAuthor: boilingleadbath » Tue Jul 11, 2006 5:13 pm

Is the tee-end sealing plug tapered?
Are the holes in said plug threaded?

I see he's using type 2 PVC.

Anyway, not bad surface finish on the parts, although he's obviously not sanding them.
(who cares? It doesn't matter in this situation.)
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Unread postAuthor: SpudStuff » Tue Jul 11, 2006 5:35 pm

the plug does not appear to be tapered.
do you mean the holes for the screws that hold it in?
if so i doubt it. it takes him 118 minutes to make thisimaging if he had to drill and tap each one. i bet he uses self tapping sheet metal screws

how do you know it is type two PVC. type 1 comes in gray also
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