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Golf Ball Valve<div align="center">GOLF BALL VALVE
Provided By - Clide Ok, I have been working on this sucker for a long time(probably about 2 months) and I finally got it to where I wanted it for the most part. I still have a small leak problem I need to take care of, but hopefully it won't be too much of a problem. My goal was to build a valve that allowed full 1.7"(1.68 actually, but I'm rounding) flow for a golf ball and I wanted to be able to build it in a 2" tee, which is much harder than it sounds. Also, there were no special machines such as lathes used when making these valves, only a saw, dremel, drill, and one of those grinding wheels, and all the parts were found at my local Ace hardware store. I went through 3 1/2 different versions of this thing and 2 piston designs until I finally got it working. I have noticed several people talking about valves similar to this lately so I figured I would share my experiences so people can have more to base their designs off of. My first design was a piston in 2" pipe that blocked a hole in the side of the pipe leading to the barrel, and I was hoping releasing the pressure on one side would slide the piston sideways and open the hole. But when I released the air I could never get the piston to slide enough to allow full flow. It just opened partially and let out all the pressure through the small crack it made. My second design was similar to my final (diagram below) but instead of the bushings and 1.5" pipe as the barrel entrance I tried to use slit 2" inside 2". and on this version I neglected to make sure the sealing surface was flat before glueing it into the tee. I couldn't get the thing to seal very well at all. This is where the 1/2 version comes in. I kept the same tee, but I busted the slit 2" out with a screwdriver and air pressure. The air pressure was a bad idea, it sent a piston flying into the ceiling in the garage(pics below). Then I cut a shorter piece of slit 2" and reglued it in there, but this time I left about a quarter inch of 2" unsleaved on the inside of the tee. I was hoping I could use an o-ring to seal against the wall of the unslit 2". Well, this actually worked and I managed to get a perfect seal after much testing and retesting. Well why did I build another version then? Well the way I finally got it to seal involved a loose o-ring and whenever I would fire the gun it would shoot the o-ring out at very high speeds (put 2" holes in a cardboard box and dented the ceiling) No matter what I tried to glue the o-ring to it would shoot off still. That brings me to my final version, it was easier to make and should be easier to seal (still working on that), and it uses my simple piston and opens all the way. I forgot to mention that on my previous versions that I had to build a complex version of the piston because the valve would only crack open sometimes and not fully open. Concept <img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/golfball_valve.jpg"> <img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/tee.jpg"> <img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/fullview.jpg"> View of simple and complex piston and bumper which is a rubber 1.25" coupler. <img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/disassembled2.jpg"> Simple Piston <img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/golfpiston.jpg"> Complex piston. Basically the back end is built on a lamp bolt (hollow) and when the air pressure is dumped the back end slides back, compresses the spring, then unseals the front end from the barrel when it reaches the back of the bolt, and the compressed spring pulls back the front end away from the barrel once it is unsealed. I will see if performance is affected any with this one vs. the simple one once it warms up and i get around to doing some testing. <img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/golfpiston2.jpg"> I also had many different ends for the pistons when trying different sealing methods, in these pictures they just have the classic rubber washer. And finally here's my blooper of shooting my piston into the ceiling. <img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/oops.jpg"> <img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/oops2.jpg"> Well when I tested it I only got one shot off. On the plus side I did find a weak spot without a violent explosion. When I fired the shot I felt the blowgun on my sprinkler valve come off in my hand, I figured the threads had ripped out of the top of the sprinkler valve, so I was afraid to look back. I was surprised to see my male adaptor to the sprinkler valve snapped off. I got a speed of 397.3 fps on the one shot so with that and knowledge and ggdt it should have an opening time of about 50ms possibly faster because i was guessing that I put 70 psi in it, but that guess is probably a little high. <img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/ouch.jpg"> Inside After The Shot <img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/inside2.jpg"> Provided By - Clide</div>
Last edited by PCGUY on Sat Jul 29, 2006 1:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
Yes, I am the guy that owns & operates SpudFiles (along with our extremely helpful moderators).
Clide, does the piston require any o-ring grooves? I was looking at the coupler for the piston and it just looks like the O-rings are compressed by the washers. Just mwanted to make sure.
EDIT: Nevermind, I just reread the post and saw that you said you didn't use any special tools. ![]() You could technically use a lthe though, right? EDIT: Could you use 1.5 SDR26 instead of the SDR21?
The o-rings just rest on 1.25" pipe and use the couplers washers to hold them in place., but yes you could use a lathe, although it may even be easier not to... no measuring.
And yes, you could use sdr26, although that sdr21 is already the weak spot in the valve, my first one fell wrong and it broke off the barrel connection at sdr21 between the two bushings. Using one piece of sch80 or cut up 3 bushings so there is one bushing in the middle connecting the tee and the adaptor would probably make it stronger though.
If the complex piston doesn't work try removing the middle washer.
I think the middle (static) one will move the entire piston without the second one compressing the spring.But I could be wrong.Hope I am cause I love the concept. And secondly..How is the entire piston going to move if the front and back are all the same diameter?? Cause that is what it looks like to me.
The middle washer and the rear washer are both on the lamp bolt so they both can move back.
But I did do testing on it and it didn't improve performance any, in fact I think it made it worse, but that could have just been because of more leakage through the equalization hole. Knowing what I do now, I don't think it would ever be worth the effort to build a complex piston like that. Even if it did manage to increase opening speed, performance increase would be very very small in most cases. It's not quite the same diameter. The rear is 2" sch40 (2" ID) and the pipe that the front seals against is 1.5" srd21 (OD 1.9"). Such a close size in a barrel sealing valve means the pilot pressure drops very low before it fires, so the valve will open very quickly even with a small pilot valve. Since I have a check valve built into the piston, I can even fire it by letting air out the schrader valve and the piston still opens very fast.
nice! jack, I love your sense of humor!
![]() for all those who do not have any idea what he's talking about, this is it! (oops, Ifeel stupid! there's already a link to it! ![]() ![]()
Last edited by schmanman on Mon Feb 18, 2008 7:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Persistence is a measure of faith in yourself
Quick, Lolcat bible translation!!!
From the Lolcat bible project: http://www.lolcatbible.com/index.php?title=Genesis_1
Does that thing kinda look like a big cat to you?
O noes, sjog haz bean pwnorzed bai Cieling Cat. Srsly.
![]()
Last edited by Ragnarok on Mon Feb 18, 2008 7:58 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Does that thing kinda look like a big cat to you?
in reply..... ![]() and.... ![]() and... ![]() this cat wants you, sjog! ![]() just for you ![]()
Persistence is a measure of faith in yourself
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