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is this the right valve?

A place to ask general spud cannon related questions.
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is this the right valve?

Unread postAuthor: pat123 » Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:25 am

will this valve hold the pressure and let it out fast enough at like 100 psi

thanks what is the biggest size that you can buy this one is 1 inch
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Attachments
162344_3.jpg
i don't know if this valve is good or not
162344_3.jpg (11.83 KiB) Viewed 331 times
new design.JPG
since it is a 1" valve to a 2.5" barrel will the pressure come out fast enough?
new design.JPG (13.54 KiB) Viewed 331 times
Last edited by pat123 on Fri Mar 23, 2007 12:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Unread postAuthor: jackssmirkingrevenge » Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:44 am

That is the right valve, you can use it as it is with electric actuation but with some slight modifications (replacing the solenoid with an outlet for a blowgun) you'll be able to get significantly better performance.

edit: here's how you go about modding it
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Unread postAuthor: NeoSpud » Fri Mar 23, 2007 1:03 pm

Ah, the Lawn Genie! That was actually the very first model of sprinkler valve I ever found at a local hardware store.

Finding models greater than 1" ported will be difficult and (more importantly) expensive. You can find 1.5" and 2" sprinkler valves on eBay, typically for several times the cost of single 1" valves. To be honest, I think you'd be best off just modding that valve. If you've got the cash/interest, hooking 2 valves up in parallel would be even better.
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<a href="http://www.NeoSpud.com"><img src="http://www.neospud.com/images/neosig.PNG"></a><IMG SRC="http://www.neospud.com/emclogo.PNG">
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Unread postAuthor: LGM » Fri Mar 23, 2007 1:11 pm

You would get a lot better preformance out of a piston valve, but if this is all you have access to than go with the parallel mounting.
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Unread postAuthor: zeigs spud » Fri Mar 23, 2007 3:03 pm

not every1 likes piston valves, not no mntion still ned a quick realease for them which most ppl use a sprinler valve to do that.
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Unread postAuthor: pyromaniac » Fri Mar 23, 2007 3:52 pm

my first modding attempt on this one went bad so i switched to mail ordering orbit watermaster from amazon.
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Unread postAuthor: Legendpilot » Fri Mar 23, 2007 4:06 pm

Well I modded the exact same model, and used the bleed screw hole. Careful drilling and a little tlc and she's air tight. I used JB Weld around the threads before screwing in. The next time I might try going in from the center, but there is the issue of the guide rod. Anywho, I just thought I'd share. -Lp
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100_2479.small.jpg
The whole unit.
100_2477.small.jpg
Up close and personal with the valve. You can see where I almost went right through the plastic.
100_2476.small.jpg
The Lawn Genie
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Unread postAuthor: MrCrowley » Fri Mar 23, 2007 4:29 pm

On your design you have a Bell Reducer for the barrel to connect to the valve, Bell Reducers are not pressure rated please use a Bushing instead. Also instead of that 1" pipe you should use atleast 2" because that pipe will have some serious strain on it with the weight of the chamber. Better yet use 2 4" elbows then a 4-2 inch bushing then a
2-1 inch bushing then connect the valve to that. Also you should drasitcally increase your barrel length unless you want this as a plinker or some sort of tennis ball dog fetcher.
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Unread postAuthor: Legendpilot » Fri Mar 23, 2007 4:52 pm

MrCrowley wrote:On your design you have a Bell Reducer for the barrel to connect to the valve, Bell Reducers are not pressure rated please use a Bushing instead.



Correct me if I'm wrong, but if the bell reducer is placed after the valve, it shouldn't be a problem. The gas is pent up behind the reducer, and upon release it goes directly out of the barrel. -Lp
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Unread postAuthor: MrCrowley » Fri Mar 23, 2007 5:17 pm

Yeah true,Spose its like using a PVC barrel on a metal gun that goes up to 200psi except the PVC is pressure rated. Still if anything gets jammed or stuck in the barrel or there is too much friction it could crack. Though it should be fine if you use it wisely.
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