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Remote Triggering System

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Remote Triggering System

Unread postAuthor: ArticWolf » Sat May 12, 2007 7:28 pm

I finally finished my trigger box network cable and all. It all work's, had to take the battery's and all switches and safety's out of the stun gun the battery power is made possable true the trigger box. The thing is the battery for the trigger box isn't contained in the box, it is a 12 Volt battery from a ride on electric four wheeler that plug's in to the back of the box like a power cord for a laptop.

The little plug to plug the network cable in is a surface mount one so no loose wire's to get snagged, other than the wire for the battery and remote wire but at 25 foot away from the cannon there's nothing to worry about. Just wanted to let you all know it is done. There is a resistor between each LED so the LED's can work on 12 volts.

The wire between the cannon and remote is a Cat-5 Network cable 25 foot long, I was told it wouldn't work but I knew I could get it to work. Any Ideas to make the Remote trigger box completely wireless would be greatful.

This is an Update for my Remote Trigger box, it is complete, switches LED's, plug for network cable and plug for power. The trigger box has been tested and is 100% functional! :) I have the pics just need to upload them. If You have any Questions please don't heasitate to ask.
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Trigger Box Back.jpg
Were the Plugs go
Trigger Box Back.jpg (10.05 KiB) Viewed 364 times
Trigger Box Front.jpg
Switches and LED's. You Know what the red button is for LOL :)
Trigger Box Front.jpg (13.98 KiB) Viewed 364 times
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Unread postAuthor: homedepotpro » Sat May 12, 2007 7:43 pm

you need to get a label maker and make the labels more official looking. Is it for a specific gun or is it going to be for a number of guns
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Unread postAuthor: sandman » Sat May 12, 2007 7:48 pm

um, usually for remote firing things the arm means that there is a circuit established, to make sure you didn't do something wrong

um, how do you plan on getting a circuit w/o a spark?
or have you done something different with the arm?
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Unread postAuthor: ArticWolf » Sat May 12, 2007 7:52 pm

Yea, I know that I need a labler to make it look more official but I got to wait till payday. And the Remote will be able to be used on ANY combustion gun I make in the future. The only thing that I need to do is get another stun gun for any future guns.

sandman
um, usually for remote firing things the arm means that there is a circuit established, to make sure you didn't do something wrong

um, how do you plan on getting a circuit w/o a spark?
or have you done something different with the arm?


The Main switch controls the power to both Arm and fan switches. The arm switch just controls the power to the fire button, so I don't accidently push the fire button. The fire button turns on the power to the stun gun exturnally. The stun gun is still on the cannon which makes the spark. The remote just controls the power for the fan and stun gun corded 25 feet away buy Cat-5 network cable. This is a concept from the way a Detonator for TNT is built. I still might get a key switch for the main switch to make it more authentic looking.
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Unread postAuthor: ArticWolf » Sun May 13, 2007 2:16 am

This is how it is wired up hope you can understand this I'm not good at making diagrams.
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Trigger Box Wiring Diagram1.JPG
Wiring Diagram of My trigger box.
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Unread postAuthor: Bubba05 » Sun May 13, 2007 11:36 am

I like it dude! GREAT IDEAR!!!
See good old Aussie engenutiy at work again!!
Keep up the good work mate!

Bubba
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Unread postAuthor: sandman » Sun May 13, 2007 12:12 pm

ok, yea makes since now
and i would get the key for the main like you said
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Unread postAuthor: ArticWolf » Sun May 13, 2007 2:54 pm

Thanks mate. It took me a bit to figure out mainly the LED's (How to get them to work on 12 volts with out killing them) Now that I got this done I just need to find somewere to get the key lock switch. I think It would be cool to find an aluminum or a metal box, that would make it truelly authentic
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Sun May 13, 2007 3:06 pm

To make it wireless you need a Transmitter, receiver, servo's, control horn's, linkages, pressure switch's and battery packs. All can be gotten on Ebay cheep. If you build a wireless system, make sure your Transmitter and Receiver are both FM Narrow Banded, anything else is saseptable to false triggering from cell phones and pagers.
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Unread postAuthor: Flying_Salt » Sun May 13, 2007 3:07 pm

This is off topic, but would the ignition system for a model rocket work?
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Sun May 13, 2007 3:11 pm

Flying_Salt wrote:This is off topic, but would the ignition system for a model rocket work?

Only if you put a ignighter in the chamber for every shot. If it will fire in a moister filled chamber, so probly not. Ignighters kinda suck anyway, i use cannon fuse for my rockets.
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Unread postAuthor: sandman » Sun May 13, 2007 3:21 pm

um, why get all those parts for wireless when all you have to do is:
get wireless doorbell
take out speaker
put relay where it used to be
hook power to relay
have fun :D

Edit: look at http://www.allelectronics.com/ for a key switch
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Sun May 13, 2007 3:29 pm

Because -- "anything else is saseptable to false triggering from cell phones and pagers. " Plus the range would suck, with a good Rx and Tx, you can get 1,000 meters away and control it.
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Unread postAuthor: sandman » Sun May 13, 2007 3:44 pm

if you have to get 1km to fire your cannon, you should not be using it
if you need extra range then use a garage door operator insted
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Unread postAuthor: jrrdw » Sun May 13, 2007 3:54 pm

Keywords in bold -- "anything else is saseptable to false triggering from cell phones and pagers. Because cell phones and pagers work on AM Bands just like your above mentioned ideas. With all the cell phones and pagers out there now days, why chance it? Mite shoot yourself or someone else. That would be very bad. Just for the record, i would'nt use it that far away, it's just useable up to about that distance.
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