Useful Facts and Ideas for New Spudgunners

Just starting to spud and wonder how long your barrel should be? Want to know how to build a better cannon? This is just the place! If you think your question is one of a newcomer, please post it in here. If your question is posted elsewhere, and it's a newcomer's type question, it will be moved in here.

Postby PCGUY » Thu Sep 29, 2005 9:31 pm

<font color="green">Orignally posted by drac, however stupid Snitz archived it so I have to repost it.</font>

I don't belive that anyone has asked questions about this before, but someone will eventually. This is a topic to post the meanings of any pipe symbols or phrases and their explanations. I'll start.

<b>NSf-PW</b>: means that the pipe is pressure rated
<b>XXX p.s.i.</b>: the pressure the pipe is rated to
<b>DWV: Drain, Waste and Vent</b>: safe for Combustions.
<b>Male NPT x Socket Weld</b>: adapter with male threads that fits over a pipe by slipping on.
<b>Female NPTx Socket Weld</b>: opposite of male
<b>NPT x spigot</b>: fits into a couling, bushing, anything that joins pipe
<b>PVC: Polyvinyl Chloride</b>: standard pipe, pressure rated but can become brittle
<b>ABS: Acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene</b>: good for combustions but not pressure rated, DONT USE IN PNEUMATICS!
<b>Cell Core</b>: Very Unsafe. I wouldn't recommend to use it in anything.

<b><i>Painting Pipe</i></b>: This is how I do it.
1. Sand all the lettering off with 220 grit sandpaper.
2. Clean pipe with medium strength lacquer thinner to remove dirt and grime and leave a more proffessional outcome.
3. Krylon Fusion works best for plastic, but ohers work well.
4. Apply paint by spraying 6-12 inches away from pipe. Take your time and don't try to cover the whole thing in one go. This will help to eliminate drips and runs.
5. After your first coat has dried, from anywhere between 12 minutes to an hour, repaint it.
6. Let it cure for at least 24 hours(on Fusion it says 7 days).
Congrats, you painted it!!
I wont post about solvent welding because DR has his own Sticky.

<b><i>Pneumatic Gasses:</i></b>
<b>Regular Air:</b> Standard propellant for pneumatic launchers. A bit heavier on the molecular level than other gasses, but is readily available and cheap.
<b>Helium:</b> lighter than air, is a good propellant. Joel claims to have broken the sound barrier by using helium as a propellant with the supah valve.

<b><i>Safety</i></b>: This is what you should do and not do.

<b><i>Common Comustion Fuels</i></b>
<b>Propane</b>: Very powerful and efficient, requires precise metering though.
<b>Wd-40</b>: Almost useless now that the propellant has been cahnged to CO2, although the older cans will work (no blue dot on nozzle).
<strike><font color="red"><b>Right Guard</b>: The primary fuel of spudguns. Cheap, efficient, but less powerful than propane.</strike></font>
-Right Guard no longer works, they changed their formula.

<b>Hairspray</b>:The worst fuel possible. Gums up your chamber, a more reasonable altrnative is deodarant.
<b>Acetylene</b>: VERY, <b><i>VERY</i></b> powerful. The pressure spike cannot be handled by PVC. Not reccomended for use ever (by me, other people have different opinions).
<b>Starter Fluid (Ether):</b>Very powerful, but somewhat difficult to meter. A half second spurt should do the trick.

<b><i>Reasons Your Combustion Doesn't Work</i></b>
http://localhost/forums/viewtopic.php?t=9243 : This is a sticky by Plasticex, accesible on the main page of the Newbie Corner. IT's a really good interactive guide. If you're combustion isn't working, check here.

<b><i>Soldering Copper</i></b>
<b>1</b>. Light your propane torch (Bernzomatic, etc).
<b>2</b>. Apply flux to the pipe to be inserted into the fitting.
<b>3</b>. Heat the flux with the torch untill it sizzles and insert into the fittings.
<b>4</b>. Apply the solder.

Spudshot alerted me to something else you can do while soldering. You can tin the inside of the fitting by applying solder to the outside of the pipe before you insert it, creating a stronger bond. Thanks, spudshot.

<b><i>Links Newbies Should See</i></b>
<b>1</b>http://localhost/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6164 A great sticky by Chewy. Contains lots of links that I would have posted if they werent in a different sticky.

<b><i>A Basic Barrel Sealing Valve</i></b>
This is similar to Clide's flash presentation, but in a 3d format. It is based off of the Indirect Linear Piston Exhaust Valve that plasticex uses on his LRPL-01.
<img src="">
IN the photo, the horizontal blue structure is the chamber inlet. The vertical blue structure is the outlet to the barrel. The magenta object is the piston, which seals against the green elbow. The red cylinder is the piston cylinder, which gives it a smooth sliding surface. It's not that bad for my first 3d drawing.

Again, any additions to this list are greatly appreciated.
Site Admin
Posts: 4688
Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2007 9:20 pm

Postby sgort87 » Sat Jan 28, 2006 4:29 pm

This is my “Stuff that fits in Thingsâ€Â
Posts: 2062
Joined: Thu Sep 08, 2005 11:59 pm
Location: USA

Postby saladtossser » Sat Jan 28, 2006 6:34 pm

for some reason, i find that all 3 cpvc sizes fit in each other some what well
1" cpvc fittings fit very well in 1 1/4" abs
also hockey pucks fit in 3" abs
Posts: 1207
Joined: Sun May 29, 2005 5:00 pm
Location: Canada

Postby aetherguy881 » Sat Jan 28, 2006 7:16 pm

Rught Gaurd doesn't work anymore:?:(:evil:

http://localhost/forums/viewtopic.php?t ... ,=,garbage
Posts: 627
Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2005 8:28 pm
Location: USA



Postby orangekid13 » Sat Jan 28, 2006 8:02 pm

yeah, but the cheap generic knock off stuff supposedly still does
Posts: 990
Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2003 12:02 am
Location: USA

Postby OrganicAccelerator » Tue Mar 21, 2006 6:09 pm

Actually, the cheap generic knock-off doesn't anymore. They followed along changing their ingredients list.

And yay my first post here! I've been spudding with my friends guns a while, and about to build my first now. I've been reading here and thanks for all the help guys!
Posts: 39
Joined: Tue Mar 21, 2006 11:08 am
Location: USA

Postby rm_racer » Wed Jun 28, 2006 10:44 pm

my forst post. i just got some rightguard down from walmart and it worked insanely well. the generic knock-off scrao is worthless though. i'm goin down to by a bunch of rightguard tomorrow.
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Jun 28, 2006 10:37 pm

Postby Arborman495 » Wed Dec 20, 2006 8:15 pm

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="tahoma,verdana,arial" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by rm_racer
[br]my forst post. i just got some rightguard down from walmart and it worked insanely well. the generic knock-off scrao is worthless though. i'm goin down to by a bunch of rightguard tomorrow.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

I tested the static guard stuff. The kind with the orange cap and skinny bottle. It is far more powerful than right guard. I did a burn test. (not putting the cap on on looking at the flames. Hairspray had no fire but shot hot gas out. Right guard had some blue fire with much hot gas. Static guard had a satisfying six inches of orange flame shoot out. Give Static guard a try.
Posts: 86
Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2006 6:39 pm
Location: USA

Postby FLONE » Thu Dec 21, 2006 11:20 am

My experience also. Seems like everything works well when it is hot outside. When the temp drops into the 30's the Right Guard seems to "wet out", while Static Guard keeps on booming. Static seems to be a "dry" spray compared to RG. If the RG can gets cold, might as well toss it, doesn't want to spray after that. Also the RG spray is narrower than the Static. Use both in a duplex load!
Posts: 135
Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 5:49 pm

Return to Frequently Asked Questions aka The Newbie Corner