Muzzle Break

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Postby fullmetaljacket » Sun Feb 04, 2007 3:53 am

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="tahoma,verdana,arial" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">So, could I just use a coupler and six inches of pipe with the holes in the top. I dont want to drill the holes into the barrel itself
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

As far as I can tell that would work, better than the T with one end plugged because you'd have pressurised gas escaping upwards while the projectile is still in the barrel. Indeed the T style muzzle brake is normally used purely to counter recoil, such as on <a href="http://cybermodeler.com/armor/m18/images/kruse_m18_15.jpg">tank cannon</a> and <a href="http://www.gun-world.net/britain/AI/aw/aw50.htm">large calibre sniper rifles</a>.

Another option would be cutting down the muzzle with a slanted profile in the manner of the AK-47, like so:

<img src="http://www.aa-ok.com/AK-11.jpg" width=416 height=252 title="" >

About the spelling, I normally ignore the brutal transgressions of the English language on this forum, to make corrections constantly would detract from the enjoyment of the site - I chose to correct you in this case because we're talking about a technical component whose moniker describes its function, so I saw it as important. I wasn't trying to make you look stupid, but this community is all about constructive criticism, what you make of it is up to you.

DR, thanks for the support and excellent picture, <a href="http://www.moviesoundscentral.com/sounds/full_metal_jacket/ilikeyou.wav">hell I like you</a> :D

<i>edit: <a href="http://www.moviesoundscentral.com/fullmetaljacket.htm">yes, I love that movie :D</a>
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Postby Suppresive Fire » Sun Feb 04, 2007 9:47 am

When ever I make a muzzle brake I modify a pipe coupler with reverse porting and it looks like this...

<img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/uploader/uploadFiles/brake.JPG">
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Postby Arborman495 » Sun Feb 04, 2007 7:23 pm

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="tahoma,verdana,arial" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by DR
[br]<center><img src="http://www.mattschei.be/filme/fulmetal/PDVD_041.jpg">

<b>Petty little spelling corrections or not, realize one thing:

You are a "newb" to these forums, posting a "newb" question in a "Newb" forum.

Mr.Plow and fullmetaljacket are highly respected members of these forums and have provided, over the years, a wealth of information to people much like yourself.

Getting on their bad side by not taking a little constructive criticism, whether it was intended to be sarcastic or just in good fun, is <b>not</b> the way to go about obtaining the information you seek.

You could have just as easily taken the sarcasm and thanked him for the correction, instead of trying to label his as "stupid".

Morals of this story:

"Two wrongs don't make a right"
"<a href="http://redwing.hutman.net/~mreed/warriorshtm/newbie.htm">Newbies</a> never win and <a href="http://redwing.hutman.net/~mreed/warriorshtm/sycophant.htm">Sycophants </a> never lose.

- So suck it up, keep your yap shut... and you may learn something.


<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

[bows head in submission]
Sorry guys. You're completely right. I should have just taken that as some help. Fullmetaljacket, thank you for the help. I'm very sorry.

Now that I have that behind me. I really don't want to cut into the barrel itself. I will use a not glued coupler if I use the holes or the slant thingy. I think that some of the rise that I am experiencing is mainly due the the recoil itself. Does the tee help ALOT with the recoil? I think that if it helps alot that it may solve my rise problem
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Postby Bone-23 » Sun Feb 04, 2007 9:03 pm

Just Try a few different things and see what works for you. We can't tell <i>you</i> what will work on <i>your</i> gun, besides fittings are usually only a couple of bucks at most.
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Postby Arborman495 » Sun Feb 04, 2007 9:20 pm

That is probably the best idea. I will test the slant, the holes in the top and the tee. I am thinking that if my problem is recoil induced rise, than the tee will work the best for me. Otherwise, I will probable use like a 45 degree angle slant. (It looks kinda cool)

One more thing. If my barrel is 2" sch 40, how big do I make the hole in the end od the tee to allow for expansion of the wadding and stuff?
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Postby BewareOfDog » Sun Feb 04, 2007 11:24 pm

It would be much easier to help you, if you were to give us the exact dimension of both the barrel and chamber, as well as what type of valve setup you have.

Small guns may "seem" to produce a lot of recoil. - If you can also tell us what you intend on launching out of it, it would help the design of the muzzle brake.

If it's for potatoes, then you may as well forget about any kind of muzzle brake... unless you intend on pre-cutting slugs first.

This all seems kinda silly to me, as I've shot a gallon of water about 200 yards - out of a hand-held launcher!

To me, it'd be like like putting a muzzle brake and recoil pad on one of <a href="http://image.orientaltrading.com/otcimg/2.jpg">these</a> ! :D

And again, just teasing you.
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Postby mafia_mike » Mon Feb 05, 2007 2:14 pm

From my experience a muzzle break in all directions, like the one suppressive fire shows, would be most effective to stabilize the barrel. When I fire my cannon, most of the time there isnt an instant explosion like there is from a real gun so it would make sense to have a muzzle break to stabilize the barrel when the projectile is still there ; air is pushed out from the holes in all directions making it stay on target. It's like a high powered pellt gun. I have to aim a TAD lower because its already kicking before the pellet exits the barrel.
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Postby Suppresive Fire » Mon Feb 05, 2007 6:41 pm

That was just one that I threw together very quickly on Autodesk Inventor (wonderful CAD program). If you tell me what you are looking to achieve with this muzzle brake and what forces you are trying to counter. I can put a dimensioned drawing together or just put it into my software so you can see what it looks like.
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Postby Arborman495 » Mon Feb 05, 2007 7:00 pm

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="tahoma,verdana,arial" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by DR
[br]It would be much easier to help you, if you were to give us the exact dimension of both the barrel and chamber, as well as what type of valve setup you have.

Small guns may "seem" to produce a lot of recoil. - If you can also tell us what you intend on launching out of it, it would help the design of the muzzle brake.

If it's for potatoes, then you may as well forget about any kind of muzzle brake... unless you intend on pre-cutting slugs first.

This all seems kinda silly to me, as I've shot a gallon of water about 200 yards - out of a hand-held launcher!

To me, it'd be like like putting a muzzle brake and recoil pad on one of <a href="http://image.orientaltrading.com/otcimg/2.jpg">these</a> ! :D

And again, just teasing you.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

About the cork gun comment (Cork gun? is that what that is?), I need accuracy. That little bit of recoil is freaking annoying when you miss a shot and have to redo everything, all while hanging 80 ft. off the groud. This launcher is a product of the very quiet tree entry pnuematic thread. It is very similar to this http://www.antennalaunchers.com/csv19/index.html It's not about the recoil, its the fact that it is just enough to make you miss and reloading a spud gun in a tree is not fun.

I enjoy your use of pictures to reinforce your opinions:)
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Postby Suppresive Fire » Mon Feb 05, 2007 7:05 pm

If you are looking for accuacy, reverse port the last 3-4in of the barrel lightly then top the barrel off with a heavily ported pipe coupler.
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