I don't belive that anyone has asked questions about this before, but someone will eventually. This is a topic to post the meanings of any pipe symbols or phrases and their explanations. I'll start.
<b>NSf-PW</b>: means that the pipe is pressure rated
<b>XXX p.s.i.</b>: the pressure the pipe is rated to
<b>DWV: Drain, Waste and Vent</b>: safe for Combustions.
<b>Male NPT x Socket Weld</b>: adapter with male threads that fits over a pipe by slipping on.
<b>Female NPTx Socket Weld</b>: opposite of male
<b>NPT x spigot</b>: fits into a couling, bushing, anything that joins pipe
<b>PVC: Polyvinyl Chloride</b>: standard pipe, pressure rated but can become brittle
<b>ABS: Acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene</b>: good for combustions but not pressure rated, DONT USE IN PNEUMATICS!
<b>Cell Core</b>: Very Unsafe. I wouldn't recommend to use it in anything.
<b><i>Painting Pipe</i></b>: This is how I do it.
1. Sand all the lettering off with 220 grit sandpaper.
2. Clean pipe with medium strength lacquer thinner to remove dirt and grime and leave a more proffessional outcome.
3. Krylon Fusion works best for plastic, but ohers work well.
4. Apply paint by spraying 6-12 inches away from pipe. Take your time and don't try to cover the whole thing in one go. This will help to eliminate drips and runs.
5. After your first coat has dried, from anywhere between 12 minutes to an hour, repaint it.
6. Let it cure for at least 24 hours(on Fusion it says 7 days).
Congrats, you painted it!!
I wont post about solvent welding because DR has his own Sticky.
<b><i>Pneumatic Gasses:</i></b>
<b>Regular Air:</b> Standard propellant for pneumatic launchers. A bit heavier on the molecular level than other gasses, but is readily available and cheap.
<b>Helium:</b> lighter than air, is a good propellant. Joel claims to have broken the sound barrier by using helium as a propellant with the supah valve.
<b><i>Safety</i></b>: This is what you should do and not do. http://www.spudtech.com/content.asp?id=16
<b><i>Common Comustion Fuels</i></b>
<b>Propane</b>: Very powerful and efficient, requires precise metering though.
<b>Wd-40</b>: Almost useless now that the propellant has been cahnged to CO2, although the older cans will work (no blue dot on nozzle).
<b>Right Guard</b>: The primary fuel of spudguns. Cheap, efficient, but less powerful than propane.
<b>Hairspray</b>:The worst fuel possible. Gums up your chamber, a more reasonable altrnative is deodarant.
<b>Acetylene</b>: VERY, <b><i>VERY</i></b> powerful. The pressure spike cannot be handled by PVC. Not reccomended for use ever (by me, other people have different opinions).
<b>Starter Fluid (Ether):</b>Very powerful, but somewhat difficult to meter. A half second spurt should do the trick.
<b><i>Reasons Your Combustion Doesn't Work</i></b>
http://localhost/forums/viewtopic.php?t=9243 : This is a sticky by Plasticex, accesible on the main page of the Newbie Corner. IT's a really good interactive guide. If you're combustion isn't working, check here.
<b><i>Soldering Copper</i></b>
<b>1</b>. Light your propane torch (Bernzomatic, etc).
<b>2</b>. Apply flux to the pipe to be inserted into the fitting.
<b>3</b>. Heat the flux with the torch untill it sizzles and insert into the fittings.
<b>4</b>. Apply the solder.
Spudshot alerted me to something else you can do while soldering. You can tin the inside of the fitting by applying solder to the outside of the pipe before you insert it, creating a stronger bond. Thanks, spudshot.
<b><i>Links Newbies Should See</i></b>
<b>1</b>http://localhost/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6164 A great sticky by Chewy. Contains lots of links that I would have posted if they werent in a different sticky.
<b><i>A Basic Barrel Sealing Valve</i></b>
This is similar to Clide's flash presentation, but in a 3d format. It is based off of the Indirect Linear Piston Exhaust Valve that plasticex uses on his LRPL-01.
<img src="http://x2.putfile.com/5/12611184945-thumb.jpg">
IN the photo, the horizontal blue structure is the chamber inlet. The vertical blue structure is the outlet to the barrel. The magenta object is the piston, which seals against the green elbow. The red cylinder is the piston cylinder, which gives it a smooth sliding surface. It's not that bad for my first 3d drawing.
Again, any additions to this list are greatly appreciated.
Edit: Thanks to spudmasterofmtwashington for making this a sticky.