NO DRILL / NO EPOXY Pneumatic Modification

Post questions and info about pneumatic (compressed gas) powered launchers here. This includes discussion about valves, ratios, compressors, and anything else relevant to launchers powered by compressed gas.

Postby BewareOfDog » Sun Jul 02, 2006 12:36 am

Looks as though carlbelcher beat me to the punch! :?

But instead of offering yet another tutorial, why not go one step further, and eliminate the fuss altogether?

Modifying the Lid on an OrbitWaterMaster<sup>®</sup> was (more often than not), an aggravating process. You have to worry about drilling your hole "dead-center"... You have to worry about tapping through less than 1/4" of material (about 5mm), and keep the tap straight while doing so.

<center><a href="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-9/398596/DR2010.jpg"><img src="http://thumbs.villagephotos.com/17411315.jpg"></a></center>

Even if you manage to get through both of these processes with no mistakes, you still have to go through the messy process of epoxying the solenoid mounting hole and its port. :x

The Lid Sub-assembly was taken off of an Orbit WaterMaster<sup>®</sup> 57100 Series valve, and modified by completely eliminating the Solenoid hole and its port. A mold was made of the original, and the new part was cast with a glass-filled polyurethane.

<center> <a href="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-9/398596/DR2005.jpg"><img src="http://thumbs.villagephotos.com/17411314.jpg"></a> <a href="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-9/398596/DR2012.jpg"><img src="http://thumbs.villagephotos.com/17413730.jpg"></a></center>

The next picture shows how the solenoid port tube was eliminated, while still maintaining a "boss" to align the diaphragm;

<center><a href="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-9/398596/solenoidporttube.JPG"><img src="http://thumbs.villagephotos.com/17414012.jpg"></a></center>

The thickness of the Lid center was increased, so that a 1/4" NPT fitting could be screwed in all the way, without hitting the "little plastic dome on the diaphragm assy;

<center><img src="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-9/398596/Diaphragm.JPG"></center>

The tapped hole on the re-designed Lid is now approximately 300% deeper than the original. (about 15mm)

<center>
<a href="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-9/398596/DR2013.jpg"><img src="http://thumbs.villagephotos.com/17413731.jpg"></a> <a href="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-9/398596/DR2003.jpg"><img src="http://thumbs.villagephotos.com/17411313.jpg"></a></center>

The material of the re-designed Lid is said to be 50% stronger than the original.
I've been testing one of these of a launcher that I slapped together from spare parts, and have cycled the valve well over 100 times now, at 120psig.

This new part was just a protoype design... And although I have only two of them, I plan on making many more. Being able to cast custom parts opens a whole new realm to the world of spudgunning.
Pistons, manifolds, sleeved barrels, handles, saddles... What was impractical will now be easily achieved. What was impossible will now be plausible.

I've got so many ideas going through my head, that it's hard to concentrate on just one. - What I plan to do next, is to custom-cast either pre-threaded plugs for the Cloud BBMG, or custom cast vortex blocks...

Either one will directly accept a 1/4" Brake line, with the hard-to-find 7/16-24 thread already molded into the block and the bottom will directly accept either an 1/8" or 1/4" NPT fitting.
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Postby utcpyro » Sun Jul 02, 2006 5:50 pm

Ok, I'm a little confused... Did you buy a difrent lid, or did you make an epoxy cast of the original one?
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Postby draculon » Sun Jul 02, 2006 6:42 pm

Yes, I'm also confused. How did you do that?

Looks interesting though.
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Postby BewareOfDog » Sun Jul 02, 2006 7:15 pm

Just so that you don't miss the edit, I'll include another post here. The opening post was modified, as I could see that some of you would be confused.

The part is, in fact, not the original lid. This is an entirely new lid, cast from a glass-filled polyurethane, which is said to be 50% stronger than the original.
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Postby Green Villain » Sun Jul 02, 2006 9:03 pm

Looks good DR.! Is that glass-filled polyurethane compatible with pvc? In other words, could a guy mold fittings with it?
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Postby BewareOfDog » Sun Jul 02, 2006 9:14 pm

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="tahoma,verdana,arial" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><b>Originally posted by Green Villain</b>
Looks good DR.! Is that glass-filled polyurethane compatible with pvc? In other words, could a guy mold fittings with it?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

To my limited knowledge on the subject, a guy could mold fittings with it... You just can't <b>solvent-weld</b> a polyurethane component to a PVC component.
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Postby DanielS » Sun Jul 02, 2006 9:59 pm

Care to share where you bought the resin and what was used for a mold? If you don't want to, thats fine.

Edit: did RobCsmall do it for you? Sorry, just curious:).
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Postby utcpyro » Sun Jul 02, 2006 11:01 pm

So where on earth did you get those made DR?
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Postby frogy » Mon Jul 03, 2006 3:32 pm

He made them himself probably, or one of his friends... It's not like he bought them and is retailing them, it was probably him and gort when they were eating mushrooms :lol: .... JK, but really nice design A++
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Postby Velocity » Mon Jul 03, 2006 6:05 pm

How did you come up with such a design? It never would have occured to me...

and how did you create this custom top?

Awesome invention though
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