Solenoid Rifle
Posted: Sat Feb 05, 2005 12:28 pm
<div align="center">SOLENOID RIFLE
Provided By - <a href="http://www.geocities.com/spudgunselite/ ... selite/</a>
This was the FIRST (funny, huh?) pneumatic cannon that I built. I saw the design on Xinventions.com and realized that the cannon would have to be modified (A LOT), to get it to my own personal safety requirements and specifications. I later saw the one on the XArchive and decided I liked that design well enough to build it. I went out and got the materials, built it and it sucked (a MAJOR leak), so I salvaged what I could and built a new one. I modified all the other versions since mine has one air chamber, a gauge and air compressor hookup, and I used different electronic stuff and different items for the breech loader. This is the cannon that should be built by an experienced person, as there are many joints and places that could leak, blow out, etc. It takes a long time to build and costs a higher price than the previous pneumatics. Nevertheless, I like this cannon because
- It is electronically activated
- It is pneumatic
- It is breech-loading
- It LOOKS like a rifle
- It packs a punch
I could go on with more, but you get the idea.
The Rifle laid out before construction, with only the chamber fully assembled (only since I salvaged it from the earlier version. The fittings are there to show you where they go and how to connect them. In a 3/4" fitting, there is 7/8 of an inch, from the opening to the pipe stop. So, when you need two fittings to go together, you cut off a piece of 3/4" pipe that's 1-3/4" in length. Glue it into the first fitting, measure and cut it off the excess, then glue in the final fitting.
Now all pieces glued together, threads sealed with Teflon seal tape. After completion, a wooden brace should becustom built to hold the chamber and barrel apart. The brace should keep the stock from breaking, and holding the thing solidly together.
The old gauge I used in my rifle. Its a 0-100 PSI gauge with a 1/4" male connection. I am now using a 0-100 PSI oxygen gauge that I got at a welding shop. Its made from brass, and it also has a 1/4"" male connection. Instead of the end cap/bike tire idea, I used a "test" gauge that I ordered. It came with a Tire Valve, Gauge, and a steel fitting with female threads for each, plus it had 3/4" female threads on the end. I attached this to the end of the chamber instead of using a cap.
Total Cost: ~$25.00
Overall Cost: ~$60.00 +/- what your need/already have.
Notes on Assembly:
It should be pretty self-explanatory on how to assemble this air cannon. Prime and cement all joints just like in the pictures, and you better make sure they all go straight. One method of achieving this is to first glue the fitting onto the pipe, then quick jam the whole assembly down against a table, turning the fitting just enough to get it straight. The other method is to test slide the fitting onto the pipe (before you use glue), align it where you want, then draw a little mark with a pen somewhere on each side. When you glue it, turn the fitting until the marks line up. Electronics should be wired in series, and soldered for efficiency.
Provided By - <a href="http://www.geocities.com/spudgunselite/ ... e</a></div>
Provided By - <a href="http://www.geocities.com/spudgunselite/ ... selite/</a>
This was the FIRST (funny, huh?) pneumatic cannon that I built. I saw the design on Xinventions.com and realized that the cannon would have to be modified (A LOT), to get it to my own personal safety requirements and specifications. I later saw the one on the XArchive and decided I liked that design well enough to build it. I went out and got the materials, built it and it sucked (a MAJOR leak), so I salvaged what I could and built a new one. I modified all the other versions since mine has one air chamber, a gauge and air compressor hookup, and I used different electronic stuff and different items for the breech loader. This is the cannon that should be built by an experienced person, as there are many joints and places that could leak, blow out, etc. It takes a long time to build and costs a higher price than the previous pneumatics. Nevertheless, I like this cannon because
- It is electronically activated
- It is pneumatic
- It is breech-loading
- It LOOKS like a rifle
- It packs a punch
I could go on with more, but you get the idea.
The Rifle laid out before construction, with only the chamber fully assembled (only since I salvaged it from the earlier version. The fittings are there to show you where they go and how to connect them. In a 3/4" fitting, there is 7/8 of an inch, from the opening to the pipe stop. So, when you need two fittings to go together, you cut off a piece of 3/4" pipe that's 1-3/4" in length. Glue it into the first fitting, measure and cut it off the excess, then glue in the final fitting.
Now all pieces glued together, threads sealed with Teflon seal tape. After completion, a wooden brace should becustom built to hold the chamber and barrel apart. The brace should keep the stock from breaking, and holding the thing solidly together.
The old gauge I used in my rifle. Its a 0-100 PSI gauge with a 1/4" male connection. I am now using a 0-100 PSI oxygen gauge that I got at a welding shop. Its made from brass, and it also has a 1/4"" male connection. Instead of the end cap/bike tire idea, I used a "test" gauge that I ordered. It came with a Tire Valve, Gauge, and a steel fitting with female threads for each, plus it had 3/4" female threads on the end. I attached this to the end of the chamber instead of using a cap.
Total Cost: ~$25.00
Overall Cost: ~$60.00 +/- what your need/already have.
Notes on Assembly:
It should be pretty self-explanatory on how to assemble this air cannon. Prime and cement all joints just like in the pictures, and you better make sure they all go straight. One method of achieving this is to first glue the fitting onto the pipe, then quick jam the whole assembly down against a table, turning the fitting just enough to get it straight. The other method is to test slide the fitting onto the pipe (before you use glue), align it where you want, then draw a little mark with a pen somewhere on each side. When you glue it, turn the fitting until the marks line up. Electronics should be wired in series, and soldered for efficiency.
Provided By - <a href="http://www.geocities.com/spudgunselite/ ... e</a></div>
Do you freakin realize that this gun was posted over 8 months ago? You come on here and say "you should add a laser sight" if you had any idea you wouldnt post because you would realize this guy is long gone. Second of all I dont even think this guy posted the gun, PCGUY did. I dont know what it is but when these people come on here reply to a WAY old topic and say something stupid like "Dude! you should totally upgrade to a triple reinforced stainless steel barrel, dude. There only like 5 billion bucks on ebay."