M203 Tatical Paint Nader
Posted: Sun Jan 30, 2005 11:39 pm
<div align="center"><img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/title.php?text=M203 TATICAL PAINT NADER">
Provided By - Longshot
Ok this launcher is my M203 Tatical Paint Nader
It is basically a "tiny-medium bore-floating diaphragm-coaxial"
It consists of a sch80 2.5" threaded plug in the back threaded into a female NPTxPipe threaded adapter. Then that is glued into a short section of 2.5" sch40 pvc pipe which is glued into a 2.5" Coupler. This coupler then is glued into the 2.5"x1.5" slipxsigot reducing bushing. This reducing bushing was sanded out to allow a 16" long piece of 1.5"sch40 pvc pipe to be inserted in and past it. The barrel extends to about the middle to middle back of the threaded adapter on the back of the gun. This makes it the coaxial.
The chamber space is obviously all the area around the 1.5" but inside the 2.5". The diaphragm consists of 3/8" neoprene disc fitted to move freely inside the threaded adapter's threads but not be too small that it will fall into the threaded plug. This is then inserted in between the barrel's end inside the gun and the threaded plug. There is maybe 1/8" of travel for the diaphragm. Enough to help out flow but not enough to cock to one side and not be able to reseal thus making it realiable as all get out.
The pilot for this valve is a 1/4" ball valve with a 1/4" male quick-disconnect adapter on the end and is threaded in via a 90* into the plug so that it points downward. I modded the handle to be longer in case there is a need for more leverage. To fill the gun you open the valve. And attach a female quick-disconnect with a shrader valve and the pro cede to pump. Or you can hook your Compressor right up to the Male fitting. This is all done with the Ball Valve open.
***(((IMPORTANT)))*** Then before you disconnect your air source from the quick disconnect, Close the Ball valve. If you don't you will shoot the thing off and probably poke your eye out, or in...Either way there will be blood tears and a bunch of us flaming you. Then since the valve is closed it is now ready to fire as long as the path from the plug to the valve to the male quick-disconnect then to the open air is clear. You will be able to fire it.
To fire it simply Open the ball valve to equalize pressure in the exhaust chamber which causes a suction to pull the diaphragm back and also deform it and let the air escape through the barrel. Sorta like in this drawing. That also is a visual of the valve. The only difference in it is that i didn't use a threaded adapter on the front. It could be a good idea and save yourself some bux if you mess up the Pass through barrel.
Performance with a 1oz milk cap.....
50 psi
213.8-218.7 fps
80 psi
401.2-403.2 fps
100 psi
486.1-490.3 fps
Provided By - Longshot</div>
Provided By - Longshot
Ok this launcher is my M203 Tatical Paint Nader
It is basically a "tiny-medium bore-floating diaphragm-coaxial"
It consists of a sch80 2.5" threaded plug in the back threaded into a female NPTxPipe threaded adapter. Then that is glued into a short section of 2.5" sch40 pvc pipe which is glued into a 2.5" Coupler. This coupler then is glued into the 2.5"x1.5" slipxsigot reducing bushing. This reducing bushing was sanded out to allow a 16" long piece of 1.5"sch40 pvc pipe to be inserted in and past it. The barrel extends to about the middle to middle back of the threaded adapter on the back of the gun. This makes it the coaxial.
The chamber space is obviously all the area around the 1.5" but inside the 2.5". The diaphragm consists of 3/8" neoprene disc fitted to move freely inside the threaded adapter's threads but not be too small that it will fall into the threaded plug. This is then inserted in between the barrel's end inside the gun and the threaded plug. There is maybe 1/8" of travel for the diaphragm. Enough to help out flow but not enough to cock to one side and not be able to reseal thus making it realiable as all get out.
The pilot for this valve is a 1/4" ball valve with a 1/4" male quick-disconnect adapter on the end and is threaded in via a 90* into the plug so that it points downward. I modded the handle to be longer in case there is a need for more leverage. To fill the gun you open the valve. And attach a female quick-disconnect with a shrader valve and the pro cede to pump. Or you can hook your Compressor right up to the Male fitting. This is all done with the Ball Valve open.
***(((IMPORTANT)))*** Then before you disconnect your air source from the quick disconnect, Close the Ball valve. If you don't you will shoot the thing off and probably poke your eye out, or in...Either way there will be blood tears and a bunch of us flaming you. Then since the valve is closed it is now ready to fire as long as the path from the plug to the valve to the male quick-disconnect then to the open air is clear. You will be able to fire it.
To fire it simply Open the ball valve to equalize pressure in the exhaust chamber which causes a suction to pull the diaphragm back and also deform it and let the air escape through the barrel. Sorta like in this drawing. That also is a visual of the valve. The only difference in it is that i didn't use a threaded adapter on the front. It could be a good idea and save yourself some bux if you mess up the Pass through barrel.
Performance with a 1oz milk cap.....
50 psi
213.8-218.7 fps
80 psi
401.2-403.2 fps
100 psi
486.1-490.3 fps
Provided By - Longshot</div>
