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Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 9:41 am
by jimmy101
OK, here's a wild ass idea.

What if you used a hand scroll saw to cut the pipe, and instead of a straight cut you spiraled the cut, one turn in a couple feet.

Could you wedge a thin sheet of something (sheet metal?) in the groove between the two pieces as you shoved it into the outer sleeve to make riffling?

Two get two lands, you could cut through both sides of the pipe to give two inter-threading pieces.

More think out'a my ass here; with a spiral cut through both sides of the pipe could you shove the two pieces into the sleeve then twist them together to get the gap to close? Would the two pieces expand to the ID of the sleeve and close the gap between themselves?

Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 4:22 pm
by clide
It might work at this scale, but I've tried it before with a 1/2" barrel (to try and make a rifled golf tee barrel) and it ended up going in with the cut going in a strait line until the very end where the spiral accumulated. It also made it much harder to push in since the pipe becomes much less rigid axially with the spiral cut.

Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 4:42 pm
by VH_man
rifing is best done with a steel rod and a hot nail.............. thats the way i did it sucessfuly with a 1/2 inch CPVC barrel...........

Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 5:18 pm
by veginator
jimmy101 wrote:If you use a dremel a "Rotozip" bit will work much better than the very fragile cutoff disks.

A Rotozip bit looks sort of like a drill bit but it is designed to cut with the flutes (?) instead of the the bit tip. Usually, the bit tip is smooth and is used as a guide. Rotozips are used for cutting holes in drywall. Check your local hardware store, IIRC, $7 for a set of 10 bits.
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I broke one of those because I thought it was a drill bit and my dad got really mad at me.

Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 5:22 pm
by mark.f
IIRC, I got my best sleeving results using a gap of around 15/16", and paying attention to cut the ends of gap so they met at a miter angle, (each cut around 45 degrees away from the radii of the cut.

It becomes VERY difficult to sleeve the pipe after the length gets over around 4', in my opinion. I guess I'm just one of those lucky people who can get 1-1/2" SDR-21 where I live! :twisted: No SCH-80, though. If it's just a pneumatic or combustion, I sleeve it into 2" SCH-40 with duct tape. For my hybrids, I have to order the SCH-80 from McMaster-Carr.

Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 6:36 pm
by jimmy101
VH_man wrote:rifing is best done with a steel rod and a hot nail.............. thats the way i did it sucessfuly with a 1/2 inch CPVC barrel...........
Don't you mean "rifling can be done with ...".

I would say that how ever Spudtech used to do it is "the best way". Your way is an easy way that can be done with simple tools. I doubt it produces a barrel as nice as the spudtech method.

Besides, unless you know every way of doing something it is pretty hard to say a particular way is the best way. Seeing as how you have only done it one way, it makes it even harder to say it is the best way.

Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 6:46 pm
by noob of noobs
VH_man wrote:rifing is best done with a steel rod and a hot nail.............. thats the way i did it sucessfuly with a 1/2 inch CPVC barrel...........
You can do that? Do you just heat the nail over a fire? I'll have to try that...

EDIT: I'd agree with jimmy101 though, I think Joel's machine would be a bit (and by bit I mean a lot) better, but deffinitly more costly.

Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 6:59 pm
by VH_man
yes, it works quite well, you just have to be VERY careful that ONLY the nail is hot.........

Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 6:33 pm
by A a r o n
What type of pipe did you use?

Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 6:34 pm
by mopherman
A a r o n wrote:What type of pipe did you use?
2 inch sch40 for the gb barrel

Posted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 9:50 am
by brother361
how you take spray insulation and spry it in the gap and squeegee the rest out with something it would be very easy

Posted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 10:45 am
by williamfeldmann
Awesome tutorial. However, some more info would be nice. Did you do this with sch 40 or with sch 80? The one pic shows you using a tourniquet to squeeze the pipe together, did you have to overlap or just needed extra hands?

Anyone who has a Lowes. Lowes can get you 1.5" sdr 21. It is special order size for them, but if you don't have a plumb supply around you it is cheaper than ordering online. There is a minimum ordering quantity, and that may vary depending on your store and their particular distribution center. At my local Lowes here, I would have to order it in 25 piece bundles either 5 foot or 10 foot in length. I do not know if Home Depot has this option available, since I have never seen thin wall in their store.

As for finding sch 80, if you are using it in a non pressure rated function like a barrel sleeve, I would suggest conduit. 2 inch sch 80 is a common size of electrical conduit and it can be bought for around a $1 a foot from Lowes, HD, Menards or any other bigger hardware/home store.

Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 5:31 pm
by NECROMANCER
i used a anglegrinder with a cutting disk on it. it worked great, cut like butter. I used a caliper and marked the pipe at at 24.6 mm. it was tight fitting it in,but i got it in. i used a hose clamp and a drill to speed things up

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Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 6:32 pm
by subterranean
Nice job necro mine looks very similar but i made it differently.I made a simple jig using 2x4's to hold the pvc in place , then i simply used a jig saw to cut the gap. I used the guess and check method so it took awhile to get the right gap distance. Even though it takes time, i got a very nice fit. The only problem was that my cut was not very straight so there are slight gaps within the barrel(similarly as your does, but not a problem at all).

Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2008 7:11 pm
by SpudBlaster15
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