SpudFiles

Being you are becoming interested in Electronics, I highly recommend this free schematic capture and PCB layout software.
It is relatively easy to use for a beginner. I can e-mail you original schematics if you would like them.
I am working on the RF tracking transmitter schematic that will be the Miniboy replacement that JSR has offered.

http://www.expresspcb.com/ExpressPCBHtm ... ftware.htm

You can also use Yenka for crude simulations of a schematic which is free but has hours during which it can not be used. (school hours)

http://www.yenka.com/en/Free_home_licences/

wouldn't salvaging a remote controlled RC and rewire the motors to a relay and replace the stungun's button with the relay's terminals be possible as well?

and remember those RF stickers used to track shop items? you could pretty much use that as the transmitter fitted inside the ammo and a regular RF detector to track it. OR fitting in a joule thief + button cell powered IR led on a transparent bullet and using an IR sensor to detect it.

edit: aw damn, my bad, didnt notice it was an old topic >.<

The lazy mans way

The lazy mans way

lol I have mentioned that option...


It's funny how it is usually cheaper to buy a ready made module than to built your own circuit from scratch... all thx to smd components and pick&place machines

Mine was still cheaper...

...but only because I had the doorbell lying around.

I bought a door bell for this too.
It also use 3v and the bell output says 3v as well, but after adding the cap(I tried 10v 330uf and 10v 42uf, don´t have a 100uf lying around) and the diode, it´s only 0.7v output also I couldn´t find a 3v relay (even I did it won´t work with 0.7v anyway...) So what could be the problem? Can I use a transistor to amplify the 0.7v to power a 9v tazer?
My bell brand/model: avidsen 102315
Photos:

Anybody? I´m hoping to get this to work until Saturday so I can finally use my hybrid

There already is a transistor on board. It is Q5.
There are many ways to to actuate a circuit to control the HV circuit.

Relay is the simplest for those that are not familar with Electronics.

Read this;
http://www.hackersbench.com/Projects/di ... /main.html

Looks like you are trying to put the diode in parallel with the load, hence you get 0.7 V because that is the diode's voltage drop. You probably want the diode in series with the load. Your max voltage will then be 3-0.7=2.3V.

That might work with a reaay, or you'll need to use a transistor to control the stun guns 9V.

jimmy101 wrote:Looks like you are trying to put the diode in parallel with the load, hence you get 0.7 V because that is the diode's voltage drop. You probably want the diode in series with the load. Your max voltage will then be 3-0.7=2.3V.

That might work with a reaay, or you'll need to use a transistor to control the stun guns 9V.

Thanks about the diode.
I´m thinking about using a transistor, because I coudn´t find any relay that works with 3v.

wyz;

Put a red LED with 27 Ohm resistor in series across the diode and it should light up when actuated.
Flat of LED to anode of diode and resistor to cathode of diode.
That simulates a load to check operation.

It is working now, output it´s around 2.5v
I connected my tazer to it, way too weak to give a spark

wyz2285 wrote:It is working now, output it´s around 2.5v
I connected my tazer to it, way too weak to give a spark

So why is it working now and not before?

The diode, I reconnected it like jimmy101 said

wyz2285 wrote:It is working now, output it´s around 2.5v
I connected my tazer to it, way too weak to give a spark

I'm not surprised

Are you from Portugal? They have a RS-Components online store that you probably can order a suitable relay from. Even if you can't get a 3V one, Dewey recently helped me to wire the circuit so it could actuate a 4.5V or 5V relay.

edit: Portuguese element14/Farnell online store. I ordered my relay from the NZ counterpart.