SpudFiles

Ok, if you are making these I suggest you make them from the instructions in the link he posted. If you make them that way once you get used to it it takes like 2 seconds to make one and they come out way more consistent and are more accurate and I have found that for sealing the tab at the end rubber cement works very well.

@Mr crowely: How does a spring actuated ballvalve compare to a modded sprinkler. My valve is a 3/4 inch pvc ballvalve, it looks a lot like the one in the wiki. If it causes a big power difference I will have to rig a spring up to it

im pretty sure a 3/4" ball valve would have more flow then a 3/4" sprinkler but sprinklers open alot faster, Im not sure about the power increase but it makes it easier to hold and shoot the gun and easier to aim,a long barrel is good when using a ball valve as the projectile should be in the barrel when all the air is released for maximum power and distance and you don't waste air.

I just tried it then, It doesn't work. The ballvalve you are using in the vid is a nice, solid brass one with a big long lever. Mine is a crappy plastic one, and the spring+rubber band combination could only move it a little way. The spring and rubber bands wernt the problem, it was VERY hard to close the valve, it't just wouldn't open fully. For the price of a decent metal valve I may as well buy a sprinkler. Will most sprinkler valves work for pnumatic modding?? The ones that I have found are from bunnings, and the top of the valve is flat, none of those black rods in the middle, I think those are for flow control. The bunnings valves have flow control, but it is located on the little valve the solenoid uses to actuate the main valve.

try to get a basic one without flow control or guide rod, is it like the one I used on my paintball gun(link in sig).

Is there any external characteristics that tell you if it has a guide rod?
why not just tap the pilot valve into the side, away from the guide rod?

or you can mod the guide rod,but it should say on the box if it has a guide rod or not.

The ones at bunnings arnt in a box, just sitting on the shelf

thats a great little dart very cheap and easy to make, you should also check out my dart design here: http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4995& its pretty good dart it takes a bit of patience to make sometime though because the tail is sometimes hard to get just right and the point can sometimes be difficult to get through the eraser straight, it just takes a little practice to get right

This is the kind I use. Just yours with a roofing nail in it.

I have the nail the other way so its all pointy and what not By having the nail that way it will create more drag and slow the projectile down quite a bit.

I might try the dart you designed deko, but the only problem is that I don't really want to shoot darts with nails in them as we live in the city. The main reason I like the unmodified paper darts is because they are fairly safe, and I don't have to worry about where it lands.

Yeah it may slow it down but it only has to go across my yard.

this is a really good dart i just got done making one of them they go really fast but i have one question, why do you have to use magazine paper? is regular paper to heavey?

Yeah it's too heavy and they don't fly as well.