SpudFiles

No, dont forgot it, its actually very easy to do. I can make a video of differential heat treating if you want

Well, I had some success with the bowie. The hamon line isn't terribly visible, but it's definitely there.

The newer project will be 1075, hoping to get a bit more of a response out of a slightly more hypoeutechtoid steel.

You did etch the blade did you?

I have etched it with a repeated hot cider vinegar bath, but I'm finding the oxidation of the edge in comparison to the back isn't extreme enough to produce a strong hamon.

Given this was my first attempt at the hamon, I suspect I would have had an easier time with a steel with less vanadium and manganese. It is functional, however.

Hmmm, sand the blade to 2000grit and LIGHTLY etch it, then it should be more visible

Yeah, I'm gonna give a harder etch a try, but after I'm fully satisfied with the polish

No no no no, perfekt polish and LIGHT etch, that is what you want. The etch is just for getting the hamon to look little darker, the polishing is to get is visible

Do you think Bisalloy plate would be good steel for a Bowie knife/machete, I can get Bisalloy 360, and Bisalloy 500 from work for free.

it would be in 6,8 or 10mm thick.

Crna Legija wrote:Do you think Bisalloy plate would be good steel for a Bowie knife/machete, I can get Bisalloy 360, and Bisalloy 500 from work for free.

it would be in 6,8 or 10mm thick.

From what I've read about it, I'm not certain it would be a decent blade steel.

It seems the number (360 / 500) represents the Brinell hardness. Translated to Rockwell hardness (standard for knives) you're looking at around 39 HRc and 51 HRc respectively.

39 is right out. 51 is pretty damned soft but might be doable.

With a proper heat treat, a lot of steels can be hardened pretty well. There are two issues I'm seeing with the bisalloys though. The steel is hardened at the factory, which means further heat treat to increase hardening might not be feasible.

The other problem I see is the alloying elements.
360 seems to have around 0.18% carbon
500 seems to have around 0.32% carbon

For comparison, many carbon steel knives are between 0.75% and 0.95%.
The carbon content provides hardenability, which is a property you'd definitely want on anything with a cutting edge.
Larger swords are often around 0.55% and 0.65%, mainly because that's an application where exceptional toughness is required and edge hardness can be sacrificed.

Both steels have a fairly complex array of other alloying metals which might further complicate a heat treat.

Given that further hardening would be pretty near unfeasible for the hobbyist bladesmith, I think you'd be stuck with the bisalloy 500 for anything resembling an edged tool.

With the complexities of the steel and the fact that it's hardened at the factory, I wouldn't think it would be wise to try to anneal it. You'd be stuck working with it in its hardened state (although, that is still relatively soft).

The silicone content in the alloy, the softness of the steel and the carbon content has me thinking it would be really tough, probably very easy to sharpen. You just wouldn't see that edge last past a few whacks.

Just to interject: I'm home on break for a few days, and my dad picked up a free knife by these guys at a conference while I was at uni, I'll post pics and specs when I get my hands on it. Seems interesting, no?

Spyderco makes some really nice knives. I'm a pretty big fan of their stainless folders. It'll be cool to see what you wind up with, free is a great price.

Look what came through the post today

Jake, I'm speechless, amazing work! I can see how much effort you put into this, thanks so much!

Im very happy that you like it! Its my first dagger blade, and for that i think its pretty ok.

going to kick this damn thread back to life, whit pics of the raw shieth of the 5" bladed puukko just tell me what you think about it, im trying to get it finished tomorrow

Ehh, it's ok....

Just bustin your balls, nice job. I wish I had skills like that.