SpudFiles

I would advise you to be VERY cautious with that lock mech... if you tap the bottom handle of the Y part then it could come back and smack you in the face...
Also, I love how you say "these little metal things" when you're telling us what we need Good tutorial.

Gun Freak, no danger. The fork won't come back at all, in fact the notch isn't even needed. The rubber causes so much friction that the setup works like a ratchet. You have to pull the fork against the rubber to move it at all, other wise it would jam.

Also, I made a "stopper" that would prevent the fork from hitting me. But as I said, no problem.

Yeah I saw that stopper thing, but the problem is that when you hold it, your hand is in front of the stopper. But if it is failproof, then I guess it's ok.

That is really cool. I might have to make one...

Awesome, that just made me want to make one, is this good , it seems like a great deal, and does it have to be multiplex board.

The lock arms should be plywood (Multiplex is just a brand name for plywood). Normal non-cross laminated wood may splinter under the force.m The base plate could be some regular (hard) wood. But plywood works well for me, inexpensive and very solid.

aahh the joy of this site oh ahhh

I have a really good idea for an xbow...

JoergS wrote:The lock arms should be plywood (Multiplex is just a brand name for plywood). Normal non-cross laminated wood may splinter under the force.m The base plate could be some regular (hard) wood. But plywood works well for me, inexpensive and very solid.

Ok, thanks, could the Y fork be fixed at the front of the bow, if it can Ill make it like you steel how to, 1 inch think plywood is rather expensive in America at least for me.

clemsonguy1125 wrote:

JoergS wrote:The lock arms should be plywood (Multiplex is just a brand name for plywood). Normal non-cross laminated wood may splinter under the force.m The base plate could be some regular (hard) wood. But plywood works well for me, inexpensive and very solid.

Ok, thanks, could the Y fork be fixed at the front of the bow, if it can Ill make it like you steel how to, 1 inch think plywood is rather expensive in America at least for me.

This might help:

http://slingshotforum.com/topic/1718-my ... slingshot/

(see the last photo)

IMO The Harbor Freight Aluminum clamp was made for slingshot rifles.

Strong, lightweight, adaptable, and inexpensive.


I purchased a 48 inch one on sale for only $8.99.

Hey guys I made a slingshot today, I call it the Tactical Bayonet Slingshot:

Ha! Great idea. Will there be a video?

Folks, after three years with hardly a break, I will take my beautiful camerawoman to Fuerteventura for three weeks.

I will be online thanks to my new ipad, but of course there won't be a video until we are back.

Bags are packed, will be heading to the airport in a few hours!

Jörg

PS: I will take a slingshot with me, of course, just in case.

JoergS wrote:Ha! Great idea. Will there be a video?

Folks, after three years with hardly a break, I will take my beautiful camerawoman to Fuerteventura for three weeks.

I will be online thanks to my new ipad, but of course there won't be a video until we are back.

Bags are packed, will be heading to the airport in a few hours!

Jörg

PS: I will take a slingshot with me, of course, just in case.

You earned it, enjoy it.

Snare knots are your friend.

They allow quick band/tube changes.

The Boynton-Banger has shot an 80 grain (5.2g) marble at 234 fps.

Incidentally, you can reverse the rifle and slide the fork instead of the trigger.

The bands are attached to the fork by simply wrapping the nylon around the 1/4" bolts.

The snare knot and the bolt wrap allow for perfect rubber length adjustment.
Snag knots are your friend.

They allow quick band/tube changes.

The Boynton-Banger has shot an 80 grain (5.2g) marble at 234 fps.

Incidentally, you can reverse the rifle and slide the fork instead of the trigger.

The bands are attached to the fork by simply wrapping the nylon around the 1/4" bolts.

The snare knot and the bolt wrap allow for perfect rubber length adjustment.
[youtube][/youtube]

Boynton-Banger new pouch attachment loops tube through pouch.

This is my all time record for a marble 5.2 g (80 grains)

Notice the new method of drawing.

[youtube][/youtube]

added 8/1/10

New marble speed record for me!

256 fps today with a 42.25" draw.

The un-stretched rubber was 7.25 inches.

This is called a 5.82 x draw.

I increased its length 4.82 X.

At the firing position the trigger mechanism was within 4" if its maximum draw and close to the stock.

I shot it from the hip because I need 13" between the trigger and my shoulder.

256 fps 11.6 FPE or 15.6 Joules

Returned yesterday and could not wait to hit the workshop...

First, I made the prototype I designed for the boys from USASlingshots. The boys have started a slingshot business at 15, respect! I decided to give them a design for free, so they have a distinctive product. Designed it on Fuerte and made it today.

I must say it took me about two hours, and I guess that even if you make it in batches it can't be made within a few minutes...

But I am TOTALLY PLEASED with the outcome. This is one of the best designs I ever came up with.

It fits the hand ideally, both in hammer grip or with frame support. The fork height is just right, and the clamp on works GREAT. Swift band change, tubes, flats, whatever you like. The screws are flush, no edges that could cut the rubber.

I forgot how nice a trough the fork shooter performs, no handslaps, no pouch entanglements, just perfect.

The grip is really comfortable. I discovered that when I made my Cocobolo shooter.

I stained the frame so the pattern of the multiplex (20mm) comes out nicely. No varnish, though.

This time I won't publish details how to make it, I will tell the boys and noone else. No blueprints, of course. And I do not permit any copies. In fact, I herewith pass all the rights over to the boys and they can decide what they want to do with it. Sell it, use it, publish it, discard it, whatever. It is theirs. They may say that I designed it, though.

I hope that I can teach the boys how to make it, meeting the high standards people expect from a Jörg Sprave design. It may take a few attempts but in the end, if they are committed, we will manage.







Jörg