lol@Traxxas...they do make some good stuff, but the E-Revo and the Maxx series aren't included unless you feel like spending a LOT on upgrades to run on anything other than pavement or a professional track. I have been thinking of getting a Rustler VXL, though...
Right now I have an HPI Savage Flux that is an absolute beast. I don't have it tuned for top speed, so it only does around 40mph, but the acceleration is brutal on 2 2-cell LiPOs (14.8volts) and if I want, I can take it up to 6 cells for 22.2volts. On 4 cells, it can do a standing backflip. On 6 cells, I could do a backflip at any speed up to probably 20mph...
And while some other trucks might out-corner it on a track, there's just nothing out there that can jump and take abuse like a Savage. I've cleared thirty-foot jumps and landed samck on the roof, or even bounced off one wheel, and just kept going with little or no damage. I've broken a few parts here and there just out of constant abuse, and spent more money than I maybe should have, but that's just part of the hobby.
I do have a set of aftermarket chassis plates. The stock ones finally bent after six months of constant bad landings, so I replaced them with a set of 5mm thick 6061 aluminum plates from TeamTCS for, get this, $20. Everything else is either stock, or replaced with parts from the earlier Savage 25, which had a couple parts that were stronger.
Mine is the orange Cuda...
Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:09 pm
by kiwi of nitro
YEAH! Somehow I knew I was about to see some nitro buggies when I clicked this thread!
Here's a few of mine!
That's a 1/8th losi muggy (truggy) with a JPX .28, I run it at www.tacomarc.com or www.fourseasonsrcracing.com (my local tracks) you should look up your local tracks if you haven't already, lots of fun to race.
That's the sleeve of my mach .26, if you enlarge the intake ports you can get 40,000 rpm out of most motors, (and shorten their life so be careful)...
I used a dremel and hand files to port and polish that motor...
you'll need to do some research if you want to do that... I screwed up a few motors before I got it right. I practiced on used cheap ones I got off ebay...
NOWADAYS
Brushless is more powerful than nitro,
this is the AE B4 I used to have with a Mamba 5700kv system in it, when running 3s 11.1v lipos I clocked it at 69mph with my garmin GPS onboard!
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Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 2:07 pm
by VH_man
all I know is my axial is a definite upgrade from the junky engine I had on there before...
the axial was running for like 100 bucks, so It was a cheap upgrade that I KNEW i could get replacement parts for, unlike my other engine.... not to mention the engine was a birthday present so for me it was free.
It was a force .28 or something. And it was junk. The part of the piston that held the wrist pin in completely exploded and cased irreparable damage to the piston and sleeve, connecting rod, bearings, and crankcase. All after running 1 gallon of fuel through it, and on top of that, It was a RICH 1 gallon. And I used a good 1/4 gallon getting it started (with help from someone who knew what they were doing)
The axial started up on the first pull, gives some pretty impressive mid-range torque, and with some mods, has been able to give me a top speed I am quite happy with. For bashing (which is mostly what I do) i couldn't ask for better.
and that auto-tank cant be good for your engine... Its simply leaning out your mixture when you pull the top open. Unless your using that to fuel the car, in which case I dont see a real reason to but... hey. Its cool.
Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 3:46 pm
by SpudBlaster15
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Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 4:58 pm
by kiwi of nitro
Well, its not like I open the tank just for fun!
The autotank lets me do one handed re-fueling at the raceway with my fuel gun without setting down my transmitter. I can stop my truggy, press the TX button, empty my fuel gun into the tank press the TX button again and be back in the race in TWO SECONDS or less!
Other racers have to take their truggy off the track set down their transmitters, reach into the cooling cut-out on their body, pull the tank open with one hand and re-fuel with the other hand, then put their truggy back on the track, this takes a long time and risks stalling the engine, taking even more time!
And racing is what RC is all about!!!
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Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 5:17 pm
by VH_man
it sure doesn't seem like it... Meh. I am happy with it. So i guess its all good.
Anywhere there are reliable specs on engines? (not manufacturers junk). I kind of want some numerical backup for the apparent suckishness of the axial. because I still dont buy it. At least, It seems well made...... and reliable.
And Kiwi, thats a CRAZY track. puts the one near where I live to shame....
Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 5:43 pm
by SpudBlaster15
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Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 5:51 pm
by VH_man
It makes sense... It was a steal... tower was selling it for 120 or so.
Ah well. I guess all I have to compare it to is the force .28 that I still say was a piece of junk (at least what I saw of it) and a .12 on my friends streetcar.
Regardless, Im turning my car in for the season about now, and doing what I call the "winter tune up", where all the Jury rigged fixes are replaced with legitimate replacement parts, Everything is cleaned like new, all Screws are re-thread-locked, and I finally get a body thats not completely destroyed. Mostly meaning that yes, there will be some sweet pics of my new body (painted by me) up sometime.
Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 6:00 pm
by kiwi of nitro
Yeah spudblaster's absolutely right, I run a Jammin JPX .28 which is a Picco 28 with a different cooling head and comes stock with an 8mm carb venturi insert rather than a 9mm like the picco.
The Italian motors like Picco and Novarossi are far superior to any of the taiwan junk. Their machining is much better, however they can take up to a gallon to break-in due to the crazy tight pinch zone at TDC.
Here's some pics of my JPX 28
Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 6:26 pm
by jrrdw
All you have to do is match the size of the carburater with the intake and gasket, same with the exhaust. Any bigger and your building a time bomb, removing material unnecessarily. After you match the sizes polish smooth and you got all your going to get!
Exhaust configuration, if you want your engine to wind out for a long way your expansion chamber should be long and skinny, get as much chamber stuffed in there that you can.
If you want your engine to wind up real fast make your expansion chamber short and fat. Of course the trade off is you can't run it wide open for long runs.
If someone else said this, sorry. Once I seen the pictures I knew right away what is going on.
kiwi of nitro, you should have left that bridge in the sleeve.
Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 7:02 pm
by kiwi of nitro
That post right above of the JPX sleeve isn't modded, that's stock actually!
That mach sleeve at the top of the thread is however.
I went crazy on that cheap mach motor, I enlarged the carb venturi and then the block and crank, then the intake and exhaust port, it's runs hot, but it definitely boosted the power.
And check out this tuned pipe (or expansion chamber if that's what you want to call it)
