SpudFiles

i am trying to revive a sub-woofer box and some of the screw holes are stripped. i would like to fill the screw holes with something and then redrill and screw in the same holes if possible. i feel like epoxy putty will crack with the screw. i dont have much experience working with wood. should i use wood putty? the box is made of medium density fiberboard or MDF if that makes any difference.

If you can get a piece of wood in behind the hole and use a longer screw your back in business. You could hold the bracing piece's in with 2 screws one on each side of the mounting hole.

Put some wood glue in the hole and break off some tooth picks in the hole with the glue.

You can drill it out to a larger size and use threaded inserts. Go to McMaster-Carr and look for threaded inserts and you will find tons of different kinds that can be press fit into wood or screwed into the wood, then the actual metal screw goes into the threads of the threaded insert.

Another "trick", is to drill the hole out to a larger size and epoxy or glue a length of dowel into the hole. When cured/dry simply drill a pilot hole for your screw and install as normal.

Brought to you by "Handy Andy".

Gippeto wrote:Another "trick", is to drill the hole out to a larger size and epoxy or glue a length of dowel into the hole. When cured/dry simply drill a pilot hole for your screw and install as normal.

Brought to you by "Handy Andy".

i like this idea the best. how strong do you think this would be? strong enough to take the violent vibrations from two 12inch subs?

geardog32 wrote:

Gippeto wrote:Another "trick", is to drill the hole out to a larger size and epoxy or glue a length of dowel into the hole. When cured/dry simply drill a pilot hole for your screw and install as normal.

Brought to you by "Handy Andy".

i like this idea the best. how strong do you think this would be? strong enough to take the violent vibrations from two 12inch subs?

Hard to say. This idea is the most appealing, but i'm not sure it would be the strongest.

This is odd, people here are usually more concerned with making holes than filling them

If these holes are the ones the drivers bolt to, using blind nuts is the best option. They mount on the inside of the speaker box and the bolt goes through the wood into these blind nuts. They won't ever pull out. The wood would be destroyed first. They permit repeated sub replacements and servicing without wearing out wood screw holes.



@ JSR, Really? We stuff lots of stuff into holes, sometimes holes that were not there before.

Technician1002 wrote:sometimes holes that were not there before.

Gives a whole new feel to the expression "I'll tear you a new one"

Geardog;

The epoxied/glued dowel will be as strong as the original sub box (assuming it was all wood to begin with).

The blind nuts tech recommended are also a very good solution. Particularly so if you have reason to be removing the screws more than once or twice.

The only problem which would arise from using the blind nuts, is that you will require screws with machine threads instead of the current wood screws. The threads are not interchangeable.

Good luck.

jackssmirkingrevenge wrote:

Technician1002 wrote:sometimes holes that were not there before.

Gives a whole new feel to the expression "I'll tear you a new one"

Sample photo of stuffing something into a hole that wasn't there before. Lemonhead candy.

Technician1002 wrote:If these holes are the ones the drivers bolt to, using blind nuts is the best option. They mount on the inside of the speaker box and the bolt goes through the wood into these blind nuts. They won't ever pull out. The wood would be destroyed first. They permit repeated sub replacements and servicing without wearing out wood screw holes.



@ JSR, Really? We stuff lots of stuff into holes, sometimes holes that were not there before.

Those blind nuts will suit the problem to a "T".

When you go to Home Depot, ask for "T" nuts.

http://tinyurl.com/ykoabtp