SpudFiles

jrrdw wrote:Did you change the entire rear or just the gearing? Have you changed the rear suspension?

I just put a LSD centre into my diff still have the stock ring gear, i lowered the car that's the only suspension mods on. I also got a 2.5'' flow thought exhaust no cat resonator or muffler just a bent up pipe.

Another mod i was thinking of putting solenoid valve in-line with the back brakes so when i wanna rip it up the back wheels are free but fronts will still work, but then this is my daily driver so that probably wont happen

warhead052 wrote: Please post some pictures when you are done with that. Sounds fun

sure should be soon i have all the parts and a spare set of tyres

mobile chernobyl wrote:I would personally use something like Xylene or Toulene, That should give some great burnout performance and help really put down some rubber on the road!

lol so i get high while tearing it up.

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I'd rather have one I can actually ride in:

Crna Legija wrote:i lowered the car that's the only suspension mods on.

That's part of the problem. You shifted the weight when you lowered it, it only takes a little to make a difference. You should upgrade to a adjustable air ride system. You can get them from www.JCWhitney.com and control it from inside the drivers compartment.

Crna Legija wrote:Another mod i was thinking of putting solenoid valve in-line with the back brakes

Is it front or rear wheel drive? If it's rear wheel drive you want the line lock on the front brakes not the rear There's nothing really wrong with using a line lock there's a bunch of uses for them, racing, tow trucks, emergency vehicles etc...

jrrdw wrote:

Crna Legija wrote:i lowered the car that's the only suspension mods on.

That's part of the problem. You shifted the weight when you lowered it, it only takes a little to make a difference. You should upgrade to a adjustable air ride system. You can get them from www.JCWhitney.com and control it from inside the drivers compartment.

I would love them but way out of my budget. it would be like 3k install here in oz my cars only worth 8 grand.

Crna Legija wrote:Another mod i was thinking of putting solenoid valve in-line with the back brakes

Is it front or rear wheel drive? If it's rear wheel drive you want the line lock on the front brakes not the rear There's nothing really wrong with using a line lock there's a bunch of uses for them, racing, tow trucks, emergency vehicles etc...

Ahh dam i thought i was the first guy to think of doing that, the car is a rear wheel drive and i would have them block flow to the back brakes to make it easier for the tyres to spin but still hold the car in place with the front brakes.

Crna Legija wrote:i would have them block flow to the back brakes

You have to hold flow to the front brakes meaning: The line lock is installed in the front brake line. You step on the brakes and hold them then close the valve (line lock) then release the brakes. The front brakes are held and the rear wheels are free to turn.

As for the adjustable suspension all it really is, is air shocks with a on board air compressor and a release valve. You could build that system yourself for cheep.

jrrdw wrote:

Crna Legija wrote:i would have them block flow to the back brakes

You have to hold flow to the front brakes meaning: The line lock is installed in the front brake line. You step on the brakes and hold them then close the valve (line lock) then release the brakes. The front brakes are held and the rear wheels are free to turn.

Um, NO. Sorry, JRRDW, but you've got it exactly backwards. Line-locks are properly used to block pressure from the brakes on the wheels you wish to have turning freely.

For a RWD car, you put them on the rear brake lines. That way you can modulate the FRONT brakes, allowing you to roll forward at the end of a burnout, or do things like donuts in an Aussie-style burnout contest.

Putting them on the FRONT lines of a RWD car would be pointless, and it would also be unsafe. No tech inspector would allow a car through that had line locks on non-driven wheels.


@Crna: Which motor do you have in your Commodore? If you can't get both tires moving together, i assume it's the N/A Ecotec? Over here, we call that motor the Series II. I have the supercharged FWD version.

There's an option you might try, called a "top-swap". It's possible to install the heads, intake, and supercharger from the supercharged Ecotec, onto the block of the naturally aspirated version. The pistons are higher compression in the N/A, but with a 3.8" pulley, it won't matter. A little bit of wiring, and a reflash of the PCM, and your wagon should be able to smoke the tires without breaking a sweat.

You can install line lockers how you like some have it on the front like jrrdw
said but i would put it on the rear to make it easier for them to spin i would turn the solenoid on blocking flow to rear brakes and the fronts will still work.

yeah it n/a 3.8l ecotec, im not alowed to drive a supercharged/turbo/v8 for the next 4years because of gay laws

If i was alowed i would have done it already its only like $600 for the kit+ install i would need a mechanic to do that.

YOU NEED ME



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sorry those of you about to go to sleep

i got a job offering , making steaks and bacon!!!! on a farm!!!


no more need to buy rump roasts!!

OZ wrote:Um, NO. Sorry, JRRDW, but you've got it exactly backwards. Line-locks are properly used to block pressure from the brakes on the wheels you wish to have turning freely.

For a RWD car, you put them on the rear brake lines

Says who?

A clever way to install and operate the line lock.
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Line lock in use.
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OK, now things are going a bit too far...

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OK, now things are going a bit too far...

You can never be too prepared

Fnord wrote:sorry those of you about to go to sleep

Played GMod waaaayyy too long to find anything people make creepy. I slept just fine, sir.