Will this piston valve work?
- potatoflinger
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Yeah, it should work, but you should check the wiki before you make a post like this. The type of piston you are thinking of is a piston in a tee, and ti has been done many times before. I'm not trying to flame you, but it is a common mistake that new members make (I did it a few times)
It's hard to soar with eagles when you're working with turkeys.
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Last edited by SpudBlaster15 on Wed Jul 14, 2021 5:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
It will work, but your piston is going to have to be very short because the bushing that you would put in the end to plug it up will take up most of the space. SpudBlaster15, you do not need to cut out anything, or slide a pipe in. It would let the piston slide back further, but is not needed.
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Last edited by SpudBlaster15 on Wed Jul 14, 2021 5:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- MrCrowley
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Damn I wish we had some sort of built in paint program when posting.
Anyway, what most people do is sleeve the tee with the same diameter pipe as the tee itself. You only need about 2" of this pipe but you should measure it beforehand.
Now what you need is a reducing threaded plug, this means it goes inside the tee, but reducers down to say 1/2" threads, where you can attach your pilot setup.
Find out how much room the plug takes up in the tee, and find how long the tee's socket is(from the opening of the tee socket(where the pilot setup will be) to the 'lip' which is just before the opening socket to the bottom of the tee) This will only be about 5" long.
So say your plug is 3" long, that means you need some pipe to sleeve the tee which is only 2" long. Cut the pipe, jam it in the tee, and makea piston for it.
Try and have the seat(barrel) a bit further forward then you have it now, and then you need to make a piston which fits inside the sleeved tee, is lnog enough to seal against the seat(barrel) without the piston coming to far forwards(you will have piloting problems if this happens) and so the piston has enough room to be pushed back when the piston fires.
Here's a quick diagram:
Black = Tee
Green = sleeved pipe
Maroon = 'lip' inside tee
Grey = Reducing threaded plug
Brown - Pilot setup
Yellow = fill valve
red circle = ball valve(pilot valve)
Orange = piston(the grey is a bolt and the washer holding on the sealing face)
Purple = Barrel
Sky Blue = sealing face
Anyway, what most people do is sleeve the tee with the same diameter pipe as the tee itself. You only need about 2" of this pipe but you should measure it beforehand.
Now what you need is a reducing threaded plug, this means it goes inside the tee, but reducers down to say 1/2" threads, where you can attach your pilot setup.
Find out how much room the plug takes up in the tee, and find how long the tee's socket is(from the opening of the tee socket(where the pilot setup will be) to the 'lip' which is just before the opening socket to the bottom of the tee) This will only be about 5" long.
So say your plug is 3" long, that means you need some pipe to sleeve the tee which is only 2" long. Cut the pipe, jam it in the tee, and makea piston for it.
Try and have the seat(barrel) a bit further forward then you have it now, and then you need to make a piston which fits inside the sleeved tee, is lnog enough to seal against the seat(barrel) without the piston coming to far forwards(you will have piloting problems if this happens) and so the piston has enough room to be pushed back when the piston fires.
Here's a quick diagram:
Black = Tee
Green = sleeved pipe
Maroon = 'lip' inside tee
Grey = Reducing threaded plug
Brown - Pilot setup
Yellow = fill valve
red circle = ball valve(pilot valve)
Orange = piston(the grey is a bolt and the washer holding on the sealing face)
Purple = Barrel
Sky Blue = sealing face
Hey hey hey hey guys
This can't be right...doesn't all the compressed air need a surface to push the piston back against? Or does it work on a different way...?
Edit: Oh sorry I think you guys meant that the air can flow to the front of the piston to push it back, my bad...
This can't be right...doesn't all the compressed air need a surface to push the piston back against? Or does it work on a different way...?
Edit: Oh sorry I think you guys meant that the air can flow to the front of the piston to push it back, my bad...
If you experience glitches and/or distortions in the space-time in close proximity to yourself, the above post may be an alteration of the truth.
As of today I have my own working piston cannon so I'm officially allowed to advise people lol, I found the main things are to make sure the end of the barrel that contacts the piston is perfectly level and smooth, I used some really fine wet and dry sandpaper then buffed it. Also don't leave much space behind the piston you only need a bit more than 1/4 of the barrels diameter. Make sure you get a big pilot valve not just a blow gun. Don't drill an equalization hole in the piston the air will get around the outside no matter how perfect the fit is. Make sure you can remove the piston so you can fix it if you need to. And most of all give the pipe glue 48 hours to dry not 24. I have to buy and glue a new plug because I didn't leave the glue long enough before testing it.
Good luck
Good luck
In the interests of correct information for searching users;
all the rest is good tho mate, knowledge is power!!
not so trueMake sure you get a big pilot valve not just a blow gun.
not so trueDon't drill an equalization hole
all the rest is good tho mate, knowledge is power!!
Well generally the bigger the pilot the better the gun will work within reason.chaos wrote:not so trueMake sure you get a big pilot valve not just a blow gun.
Unless your machining a piston with o-rings, which this guy isn't, your not going to need an equalization hole...chaos wrote:not so trueDon't drill an equalization hole