SpudFiles

Hi, I'm having a problem with my sprinkler valve. I have searched the forums and can't find anything about this, though im sure it's a fairly common problem. Basically, i modified a guide rod sprinkler valve with a blow gun trigger valve (the typical method), and when i fire the gun by depressing the trigger, all the air comes out of the bottom of the blowgun handle instead of out the barrel.
How can i fix this?
Thanks...

Try this:
http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/sprinkl ... t8780.html

And look for "Your valve won't fire; air just leaks out of the pilot"

I had a look at that one, there is no hole in my diaphragm so it can't be that... and by equilization hole do you mean the hole that my quickconnect is screwed into? If so, the hole itself is actually smaller than usual, the quick connect plug has quite a small thread.

My only guess is there's something with the guide rod you didn't do right, or doesn't work for your valve. I would suggest looking at multiple topics about modding guide rods and go from there.

My oldest son says that he made the mistake of getting one of those guide rod valves...he said it drove him mad and pissed him off that he'd wasted his money on it.
I vaguely remember having one and making it work but every time I try to remember exactly what I did the screen goes blank...Nick says he remembers, but doesn't know either, that that's what irked him : he'd tried to make do with it and fix it like I had but was unable to do so...wish I could be of more help...I just know it works somehow,I guess. [/i]

It's odd, because i followed an online tutorial on how to mod a sprinkler valve with a guide rod, pretty much to the exact detail. I can't see how it's any different really, I guess i will have to buy a rodless valve. I don't know which brands or models are rodless though, I check at Bunnings in Australia and it seems they have quite a few models, does anyone know specific types that dont have a guide rod?

there should be a hole in the center of the diaphram where the pilot rod went through, this is not the equalization hole. plug it with some epoxy and you should be ok.

Which then is the equalization hole? If I am to epoxy the guide rod hole in the diaphragm, I assume i have to remove the guide rod as well then? Ill give it a try.

Madmanmick stop! dont epoxy ! look here first.

http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/my-newe ... 13232.html

All I use is jar top orbits valves and they work great And I use them because they dont require epoxy.

is your guide rod fixed to the lid or the base? and is the guide rod hollow?

madmanmick wrote:Which then is the equalization hole? If I am to epoxy the guide rod hole in the diaphragm, I assume i have to remove the guide rod as well then? Ill give it a try.

This is an equilization hole on a different Orbit valve. It's a small hole in the diaphragm. Straight out of the box, mine was plugged with a small white tab which I removed.

I haven't epoxied yet... The rod is solid and is attached to the lid of the sprinkler valve. It turns out that there isn't actually an equalization hole in the diaphragm, could that be the problem? I have a Holman Sprinkler valve (cheap one from Bunnings) - it's all black (incase anyone knows them). Should i drill or cut an equalization hole?

Hold up on doing anything. You might want to read this. Here's a clue... jackssmirkingrevenge

Hmm, this equalization hole pertains to a piston valve though - so the same concept applies if i have one in my diaphragm, the air volume above will keep the diaphragm pushed into it's socket to block the airflow through?

yes
I am not familiar with your valve but since you said it has a rod chances are that the equalizing hole is between the rod and the diaphram. If you remove the rod then the equalizing hole is to large and the valve will not open; all the air will exit through the blow gun.

You said that you followed the instructions from a site for the modd. What site was it and where is the info? This might help us help you.....

And do you know how the valve operates? If you have a good understanding on how the valve works you should be able solve your problem with a little self diagnoses.

You put pressure in one end,a tiny hole allows pressure to build on top of the diaphram. and when the pressure on top of the diaphram in released the valve is forced open. Normally the solenoid will open the valve but when you remove the solenoid you have to plug that hole up.

I just looked at the Holman site and I saw that the solenoids are off to the side are you getting enough clearance on the inside for the valve to open or is the fitting on the blow gun holding the valve closed? Some one had this problem last week....