SpudFiles

With that first design with the 3 chambers, if you build it, try and buff the fittings up together so you can't see any pipe between the four way cross and the eblows

starman wrote:

ImHUGEnJAPAN wrote:What if I reduced the bore size of the barrel? lets say to 1"

Then a 1" sprinkler is closer to ideal (for a sprinkler) for a 1" barrel. If you go with a 2' barrel length and keep the tank the same, you'll have roughly 2:1 c:b ratio. A 4' barrel roughly 1:1. Depending on projectile weight, both good performers.

In your config, you still have a dead space issue on your back elbows. With your short barrel, that is contributing to your low performance as well. Move the sprinkler right behind the barrel.

Thanks for all your help guys, I thought about just starting over. I glued the threads in the sprinkler valve.....uhhhh oooops. I can't move anything unless I can break the bond of the cement and unscrew it, but I doubt it. I have some good ideas now on how to make this work better.

Glued your fitting to the valve? Not a problem, cut off the pipe that attaches to them and glue the fittings in a piece of 1.5 inch PVC, it may take some sanding be it’ll work.

MrCrowley wrote:With that first design with the 3 chambers, if you build it, try and buff the fittings up together so you can't see any pipe between the four way cross and the eblows

That's what I am planning on doing. I hope lowes carries sch 40 2" pvc crosses and elbows, I think they do. I have extra pipe left over from the original construction.

judgment_arms wrote:Glued your fitting to the valve? Not a problem, cut off the pipe that attaches to them and glue the fittings in a piece of 1.5 inch PVC, it may take some sanding be it’ll work.

I never thought of that, that might be a better option. I think I might try the bigger air chamber first. I'm Just curious to see what happens. Then I might change the design if a larger air chamber doesn't do the trick.

It wont increase your power much, sorry to say.

Well... I suppose I should consult GGDT before making statements like that

You say you removed the sping from inside the valve of the cp-100, I was told not to do that. Guess you can't believe everything you hear here.

no-limit wrote:You say you removed the sping from inside the valve of the cp-100, I was told not to do that. Guess you can't believe everything you hear here.

From what I read it seems you can do it either way. It seemed to give me a slight increase in performance. It seemed that the spring was causing the valve to close prematurely and not letting all the air out of the chamber.

Ok, I finally got to test fire the design this morning at 60 psi and I noticed a nice increase in power just shooting hacky sacks across my living room. I wanted to crank it all the way up, but I didn't want to put a hole in my wall. I shot one of the kids 2" superballs at about 10-20 psi pretty good. I decided that was a bad Idea inside....hahaha

If I doubled the barrel length from 20" to 40" this would probably be a pretty good cannon.

Now my Schrader valve is leaking......grrrrrr, as with life it's always something....lol. If I just screw the cap back on really fast it's ok. I will probably just replace it later.

ImHUGEnJAPAN wrote:Ok, I finally got to test fire the design this morning at 60 psi and I noticed a nice increase in power just shooting hacky sacks across my living room. I wanted to crank it all the way up, but I didn't want to put a hole in my wall. I shot one of the kids 2" superballs at about 10-20 psi pretty good. I decided that was a bad Idea inside....hahaha

If I doubled the barrel length from 20" to 40" this would probably be a pretty good cannon.

Now my Schrader valve is leaking......grrrrrr, as with life it's always something....lol. If I just screw the cap back on really fast it's ok. I will probably just replace it later.

Sometimes the cores become a little loose, try screwing it a little tighter. If it spins really easy, that is probly why it leaks, unless of course it leaks where it's installed.