SpudFiles

I would love to buy one of these from Spudtech, but it seems l'm a little late to the party. Is there anyone else who's making these, or any word about when spudtech might be active again? Otherwise, I'd love a diagram or at least a shopping list to build my own.


Thanks

Well all it is is a tank that gets depressurized by an everyday sprinkler valve.
It looks like he uses about 1.5ft of 3in pvc for the chamber and then some various 1in copper fittings and pipe to get to the barrel, which looks like 1.5in copper pipe but could be 2in.

I would say that you could make your own for less than $100

Just a little late... (incidentally my post, but I meant SpudTech closing)

Looks fairly straight forward. I'll list the components from the chamber bottom, to the barrel end:

PVC - 2" Cap
PVC - Section of 2" pipe (10-12" long)
PVC - 2" Coupling
PVC - 2" Slip x 3/4" Female NPT Bushing
PVC - 3/4" NPT Close Nipple
OTH - 3/4" Sprinkler Valve
COP - 3/4" Male Adapter
COP - 3/4" Street Elbow
COP - Section of 3/4" pipe
COP - 3/4" Elbow
COP - Section of 3/4" pipe
COP - 3/4" Elbow
COP - Section of 3/4" pipe
COP - 3/4" Street Elbow
COP - 1 1/4" x 3/4" Reducer
COP - Section of 1 1/4" pipe (20" long)
COP - 1 1/4" Male Adapter

I can't ensure you these are the EXACT dimensions (and hopefully some one out there can provide them) but most spudders understand the operation of potato guns work fairly proportionally. So making the thing to these dimensions and it will undoubtedly work - maybe not as good - or even better! Depends.

Then the other stuff you need:
- 125 PSI Pop-Off Safety Valve
- Pressure Gauge
- Tire Valve
- 1 1/4" Pipe Hangers? (2x)
- U-Bolt and nuts (2x)
- Wire
- Switch
- 9V Battery (W/ clip)
- Project Box

Not to mention the damn thing you mount to... lots of knick-nacky parts. Plus tools...

i drew up a quick paint drawing, hope it helps, this, along with pimps part list, you should be able to make one.

Does anyone know if this gun was purpose built for anything in particular...other than just shooting spuds? It looks like it stood straight up in operation.

Edit: Found a video link here... http://www.detonationfilms.com/ThunderpipeFX.htm

The power of google.

http://www.detonationfilms.com/ThunderpipeFX.htm

subsonic_karet wrote:The power of google.

http://www.detonationfilms.com/ThunderpipeFX.htm

Beat me on the edit there...looks like a special effects mortar...not sure what I personally would use one for. The effect is impressive however.

Why not build it normal over/under style instead of this zig-zag over-under style.
Turn the chamber+valve around so that it points down and then two elbows to the barrel.

Why not build it normal over/under style instead of this zig-zag over-under style.
Turn the chamber+valve around so that it points down and then two elbows to the barrel.

I think the point of the "U-Trap" is so the ammo doesn't damage or dirty the valve. This is a special effects cannon, and glitter, confetti, kerosene, or whatever else you want to put in it would clog up the sprinkler valve. I like the idea of the U-Trap if the purpose is for special effects.

Thanks all for your quick responses.

My remaining questions are:

#1 the chamber. The parts list calls for a 2"x11", while the diagram suggests 3". I'm leaning toward 3" thinking of greater volume, but as Pimpman22 mentioned it's all about the proportions.

#2 the valve. Is there a specific brand or type of valve that's better than others? I've got to say that this one doesn't look like the valves that water my yard.

Thanks again.

i think the guys here use "rainbird" valves..

can't comfirm it since Norway don't use such valves

1) Yeah no problem in a 3" chamber. If you find the cannon is too powerful for your effect, you can just drop the PSI a bit.

2) 1" In-Line Orbit Sprinkler Valve . Tried and true. One of the cheapest valves out there, and you can find it at almost any Home Depot or Lowes. Should run you ~$12. Here is a pic just in case:



And to cut the chase pneumatically modify the valve. Not even being concerned with performance it is a much more reliable method of firing the valve. That way you don't need batteries to open your valve.

and it is more reiable (?) under water if it is pneumaticly triggered

Is there is significant performance penalty for electric triggering? I was thinking that I would make the trigger two stage, to prevent accidental discharges. It would also give me the option of linking the trigger pulse to something else, such as an electronic delay circuit to fire my camera. I suppose that implies a level of reliability yet to be demonstrated.

Thanks,

use a blowgun to trigger it and have a ball valve between the valve and the blowgun.