Ragnarok wrote:...And I will repeat my earlier point that I made in that thread...
mobile chernobyl wrote:... and that should not be debated in this thread, end of story.
Go ahead and do it if you want, I want to see results - I'm done debating. I've already regurgitated test results from this exact same experiment conducted a few years ago (and since the dawn of the true rifled barrels in PB, 10 years ago easily, or more) by myself and many others more experienced than I on PBNATION.com (one of, if not the biggest PB forums on the net) and Automags.org (big paintball "engineer" discussion board) and Tom Kaye, owner of Airgun Designs (creator of the Automag series) concluding the benefits were null compared to a properly bore matched barrel for the paint/humidity/temp of the day.
Backspin is a completely different form of spinning than rifling. Back/Front spin is an aerodynamic effect along the X-axis of the projectile (higher speeds over top of ball, lower over bottem induces lower and higher pressures, creates lift, see airplane wings). Rifling is Gyroscopically ballencing projectile along the Z-axis. I NEVER said you could not induce spin, it's too easy actually, yadda yadda yadda, the backspin argument is already flawed because of the different axis, and how much easier it ise to produce spin on either the X, or Y axis's than it is the Z-axis. Even that said, I'm not arguing you can't put spin on the Z-axis, just that its not beneficial TO A PAINTBALL.
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Of course you are throwing a curveball into the equation by using patched balls, and a longer barrel. If the exit velocity of the ball is the same as in paintball, it will have a slower acceleration to induce a more gradual spin along the Z-axis, and right there it deserves a new test because being scientifically correct, you can't change a variable and expect the same results.
So please, Test your rifled barrel shooting a PRB, verses a paintball gun with a barrel kit such as the FREAK kit by smartparts, both shooting at 300fps, 5 feet after barrel exit. The paintball gun should have high quality paint (at least $80 a case, and FRESH, humidity controlled to prevent hygroscopic effects) and the bore kit should match the dia. of the paint within .002". Your PRB gun can be whatever setup you like it. Shoot 20 balls each at 25 yards, both guns chroni'ed at 300 fps at 5 feet after barrel. Next shoot 20 balls each at 40 (or 50 if you so choose) yards, same setup on speeds.
-Now each target should have a 5" dia solid orange circle, surrounded by a 10" dia orange ring. (colors are examples, use a different color than paint obviously) Obviously sight the guns in first, by taking a few shots and averaging - aiming for the solid 5" circle, and have them vice mounted to a solid table to eliminate the human aiming variable.
- Make sure air supply is as consistant as possible, and both guns use the same air. Co2 suffers air chamber expansion under heavy or prolonged firing, then stopping, then shooting again causing a spike in the next shots velocity. So I would suggest using a high pressure regulated air system like a SCUBA tank to avoid the liquid to gas expansion phase.
Record the shots from both guns placed on the 5", within the 10" and outside of both. Plot this data on a chart, produce chart to me, and - if your idea has proven to be 5-10% or greater in accuracy (to account for outside varibles like ambient air temp fluxuations, crosswinds) - I will HAPPILY shut my mouth and cook you dinner
Just an FYI, I use this testing method because it is a benchmark test used in paintball, and has been for many years. So if your going to make claims and want to support them, It's best to used a standardized, and readily excepted test in the industry.
Just don't debate it on this thread, make a topic in the
Non-Spudgun Related Discussion forum, or Utilize the sister website of spudfiles.com -
Theopia.com for conversations like this. I will happily post in that thread, but NO MORE debating in this one.
Thanks
) Anyway,
