SpudFiles

So I have been working on a sniper type gun for a while, and I have most of it done. This is just a dry fit. But I need some suggestions. Should I get a scope or a red dot sight, and a cheap place to get one of them? Should I glue before I paint? Any tips on the painting? And any thing else you think would help would be appreciated.








I tried to make it a little fancy and glued a piece of brass in there


my handy dandy gas test gauge




the bipod comes off


thank you,
sssssbooom

glue, then paint. and what is that you used for the mock magazine? the thing that looks like oval shaped PVC?

It looks good!

You should block the stock.Also its a good idea to get a scope and rifle the barrel so you can call it a sniper.

One question, how long is the barrel because you might be able to shorten it to get rid of the bend and achieve better accuracy.

glue, then paint. and what is that you used for the mock magazine? the thing that looks like oval shaped PVC?

it is 2in pvc heated up then bent into an oval with a heat gun the grip was also bent with a heat gun

It looks good!

You should block the stock.Also its a good idea to get a scope and rifle the barrel so you can call it a sniper.

One question, how long is the barrel because you might be able to shorten it to get rid of the bend and achieve better accuracy.

I was going to shorten it, but I guess I got lazy. I'll do it before I glue.

scope
http://www.opticsplanet.net/ncstar-comp ... a420b.html
Breech loader if your interested
http://www.instructables.com/id/SSPU7XQ ... ructImages
Painting
http://www.pvcworkshop.com/painting.htm
Lazar site
http://www.opticsplanet.net/picture-1-n ... -apls.html

With the scope how would I get it on there? Like a sight rail or just glue it on?

you can use something like theses or you can by a scope mount at wal-mart for 12 dollars.
http://www.artistic-license-inc.com/b2b ... plings.jpg

well, you can buy sight rails online, but im not totally sure how youd attach it to the gun w/o screwing it into something vital, like the barrel. and instead of cutting the barrel, you could make some support system, more complicated, but worth it if you got the time

You've not actually given us any dimensions or details here, which are important as well as the pictures.

tape fist wrote:Also its a good idea to get a scope and rifle the barrel so you can call it a sniper.

To take up the normal pedantism that seems to be called for, "Sniper" is the military role, not the weapon. The weapon is a "Sniper rifle" - and calling it that will get someone else on your tail, because at the moment it's neither rifled, nor used for the role of sniping.

Still, I'll leave that be, because it's not my place to tell you that you're not allowed to call something what you want to.

One question, how long is the barrel because you might be able to shorten it to get rid of the bend and achieve better accuracy.

That's not the big issue here. The thing is, in the end, the accuracy of this is always going to be limited by the low rigidity of the barrel, whether or not it has been rifled (which many spudders seem to assume the be-all-and-end-all of accuracy). That is to say, a barrel this long and thin will flop around during firing, and what will be hit at longer ranges will be something of a lottery.

In other words, trying to rifle a barrel is pretty useless unless it's a rigid barrel. You'd get more out of a rigid smoothbore barrel than a floppy rifled one.
Remember, at best, a rifled projectile only follows the trajectory it was started off on more predictably. If the barrel's flopped around through the shot, you'll almost certainly have started by sending it off on the wrong trajectory, so none of it's flight path will be right. With a rigid barrelled smooth bore, at least the first part of the projectile's flight path will be what you want.

Which is why if I were being asked to recommend ways of improving accuracy, I'd tell anyone to go about getting a rigid barrel before bothering with rifling.

Nice gun. The stock can be blocked off, but as long as you dont drop the gun right onto it, the stock will just be a part of the chamber. Blocking it of does remove the hazard of cracking it and blowing it up.
Magazine thing surely adds up to the looks. You should definitely paint it.

Maybe add an extra barrel support on the breech end of the barrel.

@The "calling it a sniper" discussion:
Topic title says: "sniper type gun"
He thereby states that it is supposed to LOOK like a sniper, and in my vision, it does. He is not calling it a sniper rifle, this is one of the (rare) occasions where the maker of the sniper type gun actually names it correctly instead of calling it a sniper, or even worse, sniper rifle.

One easy way to stiffen the barrel is to take another piece of the same pipe and slit it lengthwise. Drive the barrel (with lube and probably a lot of force) into the sliced piece.

As to a scope, I would go with a red dot. You really don't need anything more accurate than that since the gun just won't be very accurate.

Only problem with red dots is they eat their battery pretty quick and the batteris are pretty expensive.

solder leads to the contacts for the button cell to a AA battery holder, problem ghettoly solved.

Then cover the batteries up in a plastic box and sleeve the wires in some nice color. Maybe add a switch and if you're doing combustion, mount it in the same box as your igniter/fan circuitry.
Problem unghettoly solved.

ramses wrote:solder leads to the contacts for the button cell to a AA battery holder, problem ghettoly solved.

Isn't the battery compartment also the dot brightness control and on/off switch?

You would have to drill a hole in the side of the scope ...

If you can put a battery in, then you can also put some wires in right?