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Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 3:26 pm
by POLAND_SPUD
Wait... what do I see...?
...push-to-connect fittings and tubes ? :twisted:

Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 3:46 pm
by Matt_NZ
c11man wrote: my tank seems to be about the same size and i use a much smaller compressor. he will be just fine with his
About your tank(Propane tank). What kind of pressure is it good for and how long does it take to fill to 100psi.

Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 4:19 pm
by POLAND_SPUD
Most propane tanks are rated to ~ 2.8MPa (~400psi) but rusting is a problem. You have to inspect the tank first and then prepare it for use with air...

you might as well get an aluminium SCUBA bottle or something like that

Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 5:59 pm
by motorfixer1
Agreed, for what a used scba or scuba tank costs on ebay it is money well spent. You might even find a used oxy or co2 cylnder but all of the above will lack the proper fittings all air storage tanks have, like drainage and extra ports for inspections. If you plan to step up to the above 250 psi realm you might want to consider the safety concerns associated with medium pressure gas containment equipment. Using a high pressure pump is a great alternative and eliminates all of the hassles of purchasing and maintaining equipment that is capable of safely producing and storing "higher than normal" compressed air pressures. Just my 2

Posted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 10:47 pm
by c11man
POLAND_SPUD wrote:Wait... what do I see...?
...push-to-connect fittings and tubes ? :twisted:
no you do not, those are compression fittings on plastic tube, it was easier for me to go with compression instead of push to connect.


as for fill time i havent timed it but its not too quick :shock: and since i have a shop compressor filling it to anything under 200psi would be kinda useless. so i fill it to 350psi and use my regulator to bring it down to 0--200psi. and it holds ALOT of air

my tank was in pretty good condition when i got it with propane still in it so the inside was not rusted at all. i did coat the inside with paint to prevent future rusting, now its saftey yellow on the inside :D

Posted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 3:35 am
by POLAND_SPUD
it was easier for me to go with compression instead of push to connect
yeah I noticed that when I zoomed in. Though the tubing is pretty much the same
It's a pity it's so expensive in the US

Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 2:39 pm
by Rocketbat
Thank you for all your contribution!
i have found the data sheet that was on the original bottle (will probably replace that with a CO2 bottle or SCUBA tank) and it has details of the internals and their power, the compressor itself is 0.75HP and it includes details for the following:
fan motor
carbonator motor
circulator motor
agitator motor


so i think its safe to say it has a cooling system built in :D
it also states its refrigeration design pressure is 140-235psi so i am assuming thats its constant safe work load?

(just realised it looks a lot smaller in the image than in person, the thing is bloody heavy!)

oh and one more thing! do you guys prefer threads of build logs or showing off the final gun? :D

Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 6:07 am
by motorfixer1
Yes that rating is the safe allowable pressure for the unit. Might be the low side/high side pressure ratings also. As for prefrence of thread in regards to your projects, both are nice to see! I think everyone likes to see the development of a project as it is completed with photos appearing week by week, however you will probably see more comments when posting this way. I think that you have the chance to get some of the very experienced spudders looking at your W.I.P. and possibly righting anything that is done wrong before the project is completed. How sweet is that! :)

Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 10:27 am
by Big-E
I use CO2 bottles for paintball guns as air tanks, they're good for about 800 PSI or so, all the fittings can be bought from paintball supply stores. Rust isn't an issue because they are aluminum, but you should pressurize them a little, point the valve towards the ground and depress the valve stem to blow the crud out of them occasionally. The ones I use for air are older cylinders. When my bottles get a little too dinged, banged and scratched up, I stop using them for co2, even though they still pass inspections, and replace them with shiny new ones, every few years or so, so the old ones are easily converted to air tanks.

Plus they have replaceable burst disks, which is handy in the event you over-pressurize the bottle.

Posted: Sat Oct 09, 2010 4:41 pm
by Dgr8one85
Have you tried using a high flow low pressure output paintball regulator. they use 1/8" NPT fittings, but you can use simple adapters to use. This will allow you to use a CO2 and or HPA tank. Or, i know home depot and lowes sells a portable kit that allows you to use a co2 tank to run air tools with. this should allow you to regulate the pressure down to safe levels.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_82384-61735-J-6 ... 2Bportable