cane gun

Show us your pneumatic spud gun! Discuss pneumatic (compressed gas) powered potato guns and related accessories. Valve types, actuation, pipe, materials, fittings, compressors, safety, gas choices, and more.
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ilovefire
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Mon Nov 01, 2010 11:52 pm

hey iv been thinking of making a secret cane gun and came up with this design for the trigger mechanism and would like to know it it would work or how i could improve it, all the pink and grey will be made out of sheet aluminum and hidden between wooden grips
what do you think?
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push the button at the bottom and the trigger flicks out letting the square bit fall in front of the firing pin ready to be shot, if you then decide not to shoot the just invert it and press the trigger
push the button at the bottom and the trigger flicks out letting the square bit fall in front of the firing pin ready to be shot, if you then decide not to shoot the just invert it and press the trigger
this is the mechanism hidden
this is the mechanism hidden
Last edited by ilovefire on Sat Nov 06, 2010 4:36 am, edited 2 times in total.
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jackssmirkingrevenge
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Tue Nov 02, 2010 12:59 am

Looks like it will work and it will be an interesting little project. On the other hand, you've done well with small hybrids, how about a hybrid cane gun :D
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
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ilovefire
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Tue Nov 02, 2010 1:11 am

jackssmirkingrevenge wrote:Looks like it will work and it will be an interesting little project. On the other hand, you've done well with small hybrids, how about a hybrid cane gun :D
yes well i have already got a design for one but sadly it would involve a lot of machining and lathe work so maybe if i get a lathe i will attempt one but foe now ill have a go at another pneumatic
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Tue Nov 02, 2010 3:41 am

Why not an inline hammer? If you ask jack nicely I'm sure he has a link..
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Tue Nov 02, 2010 4:18 am

inonickname wrote:Why not an inline hammer? If you ask jack nicely I'm sure he has a link..
You meana la Stealth/Talon?

To be honest I think a cane gun is a perfect application for a schrader filled/piloted coaxial piston launcher, something like thisbut stretched out.

As a trigger you could have it fire simply by pushing the handle down on the barrel, but adding a twist lock that prevents the handle being pushed down unless the barrel is turned to a certain position.
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
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inonickname
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Tue Nov 02, 2010 4:38 am

I actually meant a hammer along the same axis as the valve, similar to how an SMG would be set up rather than with a hammer more similar to a revolver.

Have a look through here.
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ilovefire
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Tue Nov 02, 2010 6:05 am

thanks for the ideas but this was first intended to be a very large pen gun aiming for performance, long barrel, decent chamber volume, small pilot volume and high pressure (400psi more if i can get it) then i decided that i might try turn it into something that looked exactly like a cane but still worked like a gun and without breaking my very, very small bank account without being to complicated, if you know what i mean?
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ilovefire
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Sat Nov 06, 2010 4:39 am

update: got the workings of the handle almost finished
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jackssmirkingrevenge
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Sat Nov 06, 2010 5:07 am

Sexy! What calibre/pressure will the final project be?
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
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ilovefire
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Sat Nov 06, 2010 5:13 am

thanks, its going to be a 5mm bore and and run on 400psi, but if i get a fridge compressor or make my own pump it would be good to get 500-600psi if not more!
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Sat Nov 06, 2010 2:49 pm

ilovefire wrote:update: got the workings of the handle almost finished
I was looking at that pic, and imagining how I would encase that in wood.

The thought occurred to me that those components could be smaller, and still be functional.

For instance, the pushbutton on the end of the handle: That function could be done with a metal rod, instead of a slab of metal.

Think, cutoff 1/4" x 6" bolt for the rod. Take the head off, or just file it into the 'button' shape. Then use as much of the plain shank as you need. Cutting off the remaining shank and threads.

I realize you'll need the 'belly' on the one piece, to be able to push in and reset the 'trigger'. But it seems to me that there is a lot of unneeded weight and size on most of those pieces, that could be gotten rid of.

I'm not being critical, and I hope I am not taken that way. I actually hope this is helpful.

What is the thickness of the metal ? Looks like maybe 1/4".

I'd leave the basic shape, the way it is, then cut "stocks" just like a handgun handle.

Then grind the metal and wood together, to get a good profile, with the metal showing.

I'd use the rod at the end, as I said, but with another difference.

Both rods could be done this way.

Drill a hole in the handle metal, and insert the rod through that hole.

If you stuck with rods, you'd have to use a rod smaller in diameter, than the thickness of the metal. But if you stuck with slabs, they could be just slightly thinner than the thickness of the metal plate. And run in cutout channels in the plate.

Use several screws to hold the stocks to the plate. And make use of a couple/few of those screws, to provide the pivot points for your other components.
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Selador
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Sat Nov 06, 2010 3:00 pm

ilovefire wrote:hey iv been thinking of making a secret cane gun and came up with this design for the trigger mechanism and would like to know it it would work or how i could improve it, all the pink and grey will be made out of sheet aluminum and hidden between wooden grips
what do you think?
I am confused about one thing.

Is it your point to push in on a schraeder valve, with that rod ?

Or is the point, to release the schraeder valve ?

The way you have it set up now, you will be releasing the schraeder valve.

Meaning closing the valve, not opening it.

As-is, the schraeder valve will be held open until you push the button.


EDIT: Aha ! I just looked again.

You intend the block at the top to fall down.

Then you fire by pushing in on the "belly" of the one piece.

Clever.

Then I take it, you have to hold the 'trigger' in, and invert the cane handle to get the block to fall back out from in between the rod and the trigger.
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ramses
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Sat Nov 06, 2010 4:32 pm

That looks great!!!

How thick are the moving parts?
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ilovefire
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Sun Nov 07, 2010 2:12 am

its all been cut from 3mm aluminum

Oxbreath, the reason i have the button made from the aluminum is so when its all put together it is not very obvious, infarct when i finish it and have it i a cutout of the aluminum plate i want it to be virtually invisible, it may make it a bit harder to press but that isnt necessarily a bad thing, also im not sure i know what you mean by "stocks", and thank you for your input i do really appreciate it
Selador
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Sun Nov 07, 2010 4:48 am

ilovefire wrote:its all been cut from 3mm aluminum

Oxbreath, the reason i have the button made from the aluminum is so when its all put together it is not very obvious, infarct when i finish it and have it i a cutout of the aluminum plate i want it to be virtually invisible, it may make it a bit harder to press but that isnt necessarily a bad thing, also im not sure i know what you mean by "stocks", and thank you for your input i do really appreciate it


'Stocks' may be the wrong word for it. I'm not sure.

Think of the handle of a regulation pistol.

The handle of the gun starts as a piece of metal, like you have.

Depending on the gun, that metal will be a frame that includes working parts, and/or a magazine.

There are either two pieces of wood, or two pieces of rubber, or some composite, whatever... Bolted to this frame. One on either side. This completes the handle/grip.

Those two pieces of wood, are what I am calling stocks.

~~~

Aluminum is a good choice. I like working aluminum. You can use regular woodworking tools, for the most part.

~~~

Keeping the 'trigger' mostly hidden up inside the handle, is a good thing. I agree.

I think when you push the rod/button on the bottom and release the trigger, the trigger will become easy enough to push on.

~~~

Man. You have me wishing I was the one making this. LOL

I just may have to copy you, some day.

~~~

I have been thinking that the real weak spot in your mechanism is that block that you want to drop down between the trigger and the rod that will push in on the schraeder valve.

I don't think it is in your best interest, to let it just sit in there, loose.

How about this...

Set a rod in the top of it.

Run that rod to the top of the handle.

Put a cap on the handle, with another rod attached to it, which rod contacts the rod in the block.

Put a spring below the block.

Now, when you push down on the cap, the block gets pushed down.

IN the block, place another rod, horizontally.

When the block gets pushed down into place, that rod lines up with the rod that will push the schraeder valve.

Pull the trigger, the middle rod gets pushed. Which pushes the longer horizontal rod, against the schraeder valve.

~~~

Now, back to the anology of a hangun, as an example.

Think of the bottom button as the safety. I'll come back to that, in a minute.

The trigger is obvious.

The top button would be the cocking mechanism. Like pulling back on the hammer.

So, to fire.. You undo the safety. Cock the mechanism. Then pull the trigger.

The hammer and trigger, can still all be done with one hand.

~~~

The bottom mechanism could have a safety feature.

Like, you have to twist it first, to be able to push it in.
Attachments
t_cane2_119a.jpg
t_cane2_119a.jpg (12.32 KiB) Viewed 5273 times
t_cane1_211a1.jpg
t_cane1_211a1.jpg (12.48 KiB) Viewed 5273 times
If you can't fix it, you don't own it.
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