SpudFiles

Could you epoxy the white part in place, and then drill and tap that?

Lockednloaded wrote:here's the assembled flow control 'thingamajiggy'

Making fun of me?

haha, I didn't have a better name for it either.

I'm thinking about drilling next to the guide rod and just turning the knob to allow maximum flow, but I want to remove the spring too... hmmmm...

That might not be a Chamber Sealer valve then. The flow control simply limits how far the diaphragm can open by either holding it closed or closing off a port in the diaphragm out to the barrel in the center of the valve as the valve opens. In regards to the direction of the flow through the valve, does the inlet feed into the side of the diaphragm and the center of the diaphragm block the outlet? With the solenoid on the side instead of the center, this may be a barrel sealer valve.

You may be correct, but does a flow control explain why there is guide rod?

It is probably not a guide rod, but instead a rod that operates a valve in the diaphragm. The position the end of the rod is located sets the point where a valve in the piston portion operates so as the diaphragm valve is opening, a pilot port operates in the piston so it reaches a balance before it is fully open. This sets the flow of the valve when operating with water. With compressible air, it may set a point where it honks instead.

Look in the diaphragm to see what the tip of the rod operates inside. You will find it operates some kind of valve.

With the screw screwed in, the valve inside operates when the diaphragm is mostly closed so the flow is low. With the screw backed out, the diaphragm moves mostly open before the tip of the rod is touched so the valve opens wide for high flow.

Details of this is not clear in your photos, but on close examination, you will find what the tip of the rod operates inside the diaphragm.

the guide rod does not move, the white thing does, and I believe that is what limits flow. What part specifically would you like a clearer picture of?

That guide rod thing extends through the white thing. The tip extends into the piston on the diaphragm. Looking at it assembled, the screw on it raises or lowers the white thing, but does not extend or retract the guide rod.

Due to the size of the threads on the adjustment, I think the adjustable white thingy is a movable diaphragm stop. It simply limits how far the diaphragm can open.

It is possible that the white thing that is adjusted by the screw when it contacts the diaphragm, it operates a valve of some kind in the diaphragm.

Please get a good macro photo of the inside of the diaphragm where the rod goes inside it.

I still have not received a solid answer on the flow direction through the valve. The inlet pressure goes where on the diaphragm? Does it go to the center, or does it go to the edge with the center going to the outlet? I'm still trying to figure if this is a barrel or chamber sealer. Flow direction will answer that. It will also help figure out operation of the flow control if it valves a port in the piston. Does it port downstream to the outlet or does it port upstream to a pressure source.

flow direction indicates a chamber sealing valve, it comes in through the bottom and side and if the valve is sealed it blocks off the chamber.

As for the diaphragm, it just has a plain hole through the middle, no internal valve

OK, so the flow control is simply an adjustable back stop to limit how far it can open. Simply turn the adjustment to where the white thing retracts fully into the top lid, or remove it entirely and add your pilot valve there. A good look at your first picture shows the adjustment screw has a left hand thread, so to retract the block you would turn it anti-clockwise like opening a faucet.


The existing solenoid simply vents the top jar to the downstream (Barrel) port. It can be removed and the port filled with epoxy or left in place.

Technician1002 wrote:OK, so the flow control is simply an adjustable back stop to limit how far it can open. Simply turn the adjustment to where the white thing retracts fully into the top lid, or remove it entirely and add your pilot valve there. A good look at your first picture shows the adjustment screw has a left hand thread, so to retract the block you would turn it anti-clockwise like opening a faucet.


The existing solenoid simply vents the top jar to the downstream (Barrel) port. It can be removed and the port filled with epoxy or left in place.

I agree.

I would ditch the white plastic that limits the diaphram travel.

Ditch the guide rod.

Leave the spring.

Put the pilot valve top/center.

Plug the solenoid valve holes.

And plug the hole that is in the center of the diaphram, that the pilot rod rode in. (With epoxy.) (UNLESS... that is the fill hole for the upper chamber. If there is a small hole in the diaphram itself, as is usual for filling the upper chamber, then the hole in the center of the diaphram needs to be filled.)

so its ok for me to straight up get rid of the guide rod? thats going against my common sense, I'm thinking I open the flow control to max and drill a hole next to the guide rod