Coax design sketch up
Posted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 4:23 pm
I looked around to see if anyone has made a coax of this size, and haven't really found anyone making anything like this one. I know its not much different than any other coaxial, but I do use some different parts and have a couple specific goals I'm trying to achieve. Here is the design i'm thinking of building.
Some of my constraints are; to get something compact, (within 2" in diameter) but still be able to fire 2" Projectiles. I probably wont be filling this with more than 60-70 PSI Max, and only want the projectile to travel about 100 Yards at a 45 Degree angle. I will be using this on a pirate ship model for a lake and be firing 2" water balloons out of it. There will be at least 12 of these cannons made for 2 ships, 3 on each side, on each boat. The other constraint, (which I'm not sure if its even possible) is to make the exhaust valve about 1/8". If I could use the schrader valve as an exhaust valve, that would be great! but I'm not sure if that's possible yet.
I'm trying to scale down the size of the piston valve for 2 reasons...
1. I Haven't been able to get a 2" Piston valve to work properly. I can't get the O-rings to seal against the ID Surface of the 2" pipe because the 2" pipe I buy locally is never round enough. Its almost oval shaped inside. I found this out when i turned my 1 1/4" inch end cap piston on my lathe and put o-rings on it. I could see the 2" was not circular. (although, the o-rings where not free floating, i couldn't find 2" OD O-rings anywhere) So hopefully sizing down the cylinder size with smaller pipe will tighten up the tolerances. Any advice on this?
2. I would like to fire this without having to use a 1/4" release valve, I would make my release valve as small as an 1/8" if i can. I'm hoping that the reduced amount of chamber space behind the piston will exhaust the PSI to 0 Faster, without needing to have a bulky ball valve or tank sprayer.
Take note of the port holes that would be drilled behind the 3/4" wooden dowel and pipe. This would also help me reduce the size of the exhaust valve by letting me control and slow the amount of air flow that passes through the piston.
Do you guys think this would work? I would just like to let you guys look it over to see if there are any flaws before i go out and buy all the materials.
Also, should I use a solid 1" wooden dowel for the piston? I can use my lathe to cut out the o-ring slots. I chose to at least sleeve it inside 3/4" because I hear the wood pistons fall apart easily from the condensation. Is this true? I do want it to last as long as possible before needing repair work. At least 300-400 shots before it needs to be taken apart and repaired. Is that a realistic/achievable goal?
I do have the tools to make something nice, but just cant figure out how to keep it all within 2" diameter.
Some of my constraints are; to get something compact, (within 2" in diameter) but still be able to fire 2" Projectiles. I probably wont be filling this with more than 60-70 PSI Max, and only want the projectile to travel about 100 Yards at a 45 Degree angle. I will be using this on a pirate ship model for a lake and be firing 2" water balloons out of it. There will be at least 12 of these cannons made for 2 ships, 3 on each side, on each boat. The other constraint, (which I'm not sure if its even possible) is to make the exhaust valve about 1/8". If I could use the schrader valve as an exhaust valve, that would be great! but I'm not sure if that's possible yet.
I'm trying to scale down the size of the piston valve for 2 reasons...
1. I Haven't been able to get a 2" Piston valve to work properly. I can't get the O-rings to seal against the ID Surface of the 2" pipe because the 2" pipe I buy locally is never round enough. Its almost oval shaped inside. I found this out when i turned my 1 1/4" inch end cap piston on my lathe and put o-rings on it. I could see the 2" was not circular. (although, the o-rings where not free floating, i couldn't find 2" OD O-rings anywhere) So hopefully sizing down the cylinder size with smaller pipe will tighten up the tolerances. Any advice on this?
2. I would like to fire this without having to use a 1/4" release valve, I would make my release valve as small as an 1/8" if i can. I'm hoping that the reduced amount of chamber space behind the piston will exhaust the PSI to 0 Faster, without needing to have a bulky ball valve or tank sprayer.
Take note of the port holes that would be drilled behind the 3/4" wooden dowel and pipe. This would also help me reduce the size of the exhaust valve by letting me control and slow the amount of air flow that passes through the piston.
Do you guys think this would work? I would just like to let you guys look it over to see if there are any flaws before i go out and buy all the materials.
Also, should I use a solid 1" wooden dowel for the piston? I can use my lathe to cut out the o-ring slots. I chose to at least sleeve it inside 3/4" because I hear the wood pistons fall apart easily from the condensation. Is this true? I do want it to last as long as possible before needing repair work. At least 300-400 shots before it needs to be taken apart and repaired. Is that a realistic/achievable goal?
I do have the tools to make something nice, but just cant figure out how to keep it all within 2" diameter.