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supahvalve -VS- pistonvalve

Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 2:20 am
by roughboy
which is the best valve to use a supahvalve or a pistonvalve? Why?

which of this two can i use on 250psi?

Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 2:35 am
by MrCrowley
a supah is a piston valve.....chamber sealing piston valve to be exact.
not sure if supahs are rated to 250psi,im pretty sure they arnt, so just build a metal cannon or buy sch120 parts which will cost you alot.

Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 2:36 am
by Pete Zaria
The Supah Valve is probably faster-opening than a home made piston valve could ever be, however, it's only rated to 120 PSI. I suspect it could take more, but don't push it. A home-made piston valve made from the right parts could handle 250 PSI but it would be expensive.

Peace,
Pete Zaria.

Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 2:55 am
by CS
Supah Valve-
-It is a tried and true valve that despite long waits needed to acquire it and the money spent, its reliable. Never heard of a non-working, or 'lemon'. Versus that of a homemade valve, its made to within close tolerances. Small 'squeezes' on the oring allow the friction of the piston to be much less. The piston is fairly light, allowing faster opening times.

PROS-
-Reliable
-Made with quality
-Nice looking
CONS-
-Cost the sh*t
-Only 2" inlet
-Long wait time for valve
-No satisfaction that you built it

Homemade Valve-
-Usally a primer stained failure. The ragged looks on much dont make them very appeling. Prone to failure, requiring much tampering, and accepting failure. Cheaper. Allows you to build it yourself gaining satisifaction. Performance generally greatly lower then that of a 'Supah' due to terribly inaccurate standards, methods, and tools.

PROS-
-Cheap
-I built this myself
-No waiting time required to acquire
CONS-
-Generally ugly
-Requires much work to work
-Performance sucks

Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 3:07 am
by MrCrowley
i thought he made special ones at 4" or is that his megah?and you said long wait time for valve?......oh crap dont worry i thought you meant that the valve after being actuated took awhile to move as ive heard in another thread were it takes time to dump the pilot.

Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 3:33 am
by CS
'Normal' Supahs incase the piston within a 3" T having it seal against a 2" sch 40 seat. Therefore, regardless of any other compents, that means the flow is choked down to 2". He has made the 4" T Supahs to my knowledge with a 3" sch 40 seat, but doesnt sell them since they have yet to be 'tested'. Although I think the whole 'testing' bit is just to cover for his lazyness as something about him being concerned about safety of users. Hell this is the person that still has the same photos from a previous owner years ago! Dont get me started...

and you said long wait time for valve?......oh crap dont worry i thought you meant that the valve after being actuated took awhile to move as ive heard in another thread were it takes time to dump the pilot. ~MrCrowley

Is this a damn chat room? No, but you treat it as if it was so. I mean if I never used the 'Backspace' button my posts would be A LOT longer... If you misunderstood something in your post, just delete it and stop wasting our time, and pat yourself on the back since your smart enough to figure it out. Id venture to speculate that 99% of my spud related chats occuring over AIM far surpass the quality and format that your posts here on the forum contain. Bah! This forum is a ever deepining sh*thole.

To the issue. Yes, as I understand, and what I saw from the photos of the inards of the 'Supah' it appears it has a fairly small pilot volume, which would obviously yeild higher performance.

Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 5:56 am
by mark.f
Pimpmann, I suggest you take another look at some of Rmich's piston valves before you call all homemade ones primer-stained failures. :wink:

Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 6:15 am
by killagorrila99
Your all really dumb. The supah valve is home made. Its home made by joel surprise!

Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 2:51 pm
by MrCrowley
yeah, we all know that,were not stupid but we dont call it home-made as his uses a lathe and is built to precision(sp?),whereas ours are usally made without a lathe and are built all over the place,i mean some people build them really well,some people dont, whereas joel alwayz builds them really well.

Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 3:01 pm
by Infernal Maveric
If you don't mind spening $100+ for your Supah valve, and don't mind aiting 5+ months for it to arrive, then I guess a supah valve isvery good valve that won't let you down. Joel knows what he is doing and has all the right tools to make it work. Perfectly.

With making a custon piston valve, you run the risk of wasting parts if it ends up being a peice of crap due to the piston not seating or the pilot being to big or what ever other reason. But if you do manage to make a decent working piston valve then its well worth the (minimal) effort to make one, as a fully working piston gun can be made in about a day and under $50.

Just depends realy if you want to run the risk of it not working and you egtting (very) mad, or to dish out $100+ on the VALVE and wait a good half year to get it.

Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 3:10 pm
by Brian the brain
Still won't take 250 psi, wich was his question.
You'd still have to make your own if you so desperately want to get it up to 250 psi.
You've probably never seen what a 2"opening does at 120 psi...
Who would need 250??
Well whatever..
I would recommend metal( what else) for such pressures.
Of course, big metal fittings tend to cost a lot....

Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2006 1:19 am
by CS
killagorrila99, thanks for cluttering this forum with your commentary.

Pimpmann, I suggest you take another look at some of Rmich's piston valves before you call all homemade ones primer-stained failures. ~markfh11q

USALLY a primer stained failure. ~Pimpmann22


Keyword: Usally
That word was included to exclude some valves that ive seen that are nice. Some of which are constructed by Rmich, BLB, and Plow.