SpudFiles

Now before you read any farther fallow this link and read all of my posts:
http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/viewtop ... c&start=0&
Ok now then to clear up any misconceptions,
One: I’m not saying to use a stock paintball gun I’m saying to make your own
Two: I’m not saying to go Rambo and take on a whole army with this thing. It needs to have covering fire provided by a semi/full auto paintball gun. An exception to this would be if you played “Civil War” stile paintball which I explained in one of my posts in the topic in the link above.

Now then if you want to criticize my gun for what it is or if you have any ideas to add to it that’s fine

I apologize to anybody I have confused I should have made a new topic not hijacked somebody else’s.

errr....... why?

Because I hijacked somebody else’s topic so to be polite and to clear up the confusion I started my own topic. Also because I’m to lazy to restate every thing.
Or do you mean why the muzzle loaded paintball gun?

That was MY topic! And I really don't care all that much, I don't see why you're apologizing.

Ok do you want me to apologize for apologizing?
The reason I started my own topic is because I’ve bean meaning to do so for awhile.
Do you think I should edit my first post and restate everything important?

Anyone who is smart enough to contribute will read the other topics.

I think the biggest difference between a tippman or a spyder (essentualy any gun that is not atleast $500 except a few markers) uses "open bolt" opperation in which there is not mechanical complete sealing of the bolt when the paintball is fired.

Closed bolt systems which tend to be more expensive and complicated use all pneumaticly actuated valves (normaly)
heres a picture of a closed bolt gun.

the closing of the bolt before the gun fires makes it so that the air has not places to cause turbulance.

Assuming your suggesting that I use that concept, that would be somewhat complicated to reproduce, (especially since I don’t own/have access to a lathe) but not undoable, it would still not permit the use of a rifled barrel. In order to use a rifled barrel there must be something between the paintball and the rifling to prevent the paintball from simply being shredded. No offence intended, but that would not work
Maybe I should get some pictures explaining what I’m trying to say, and do.

scope... that looks like an ion, but the body says DM(whatever #)

I think it's a shocker, both are very similar though.

Ok here is why you have to wad a paintball to get anything that could be called accuracy
The first one is what would happen if you had rifled barrel that a paintball would fit tightly in.
The second is why any paintball gun, smoothbore or not, would be inaccurate if the paintball doesn’t fit tightly.
And the third is the solution.

NOTE:
The picture is by no means accurate, if the rifling were really that steep the projectile, no mater how tight fitting, would not take to the rifling, you’d be lucky if that’s all that happened.

O alright i see what you mean...
And im not sure what kind of gun that is it actualy might be a freestyle. i was just trying to illustrate the close bolt theory

Ok I thought I’d state my plan, better late than never.

Here are the specs:
Barrel: ¾ inch SCH 40 PVC, rifled, rate of twist = 1 in 18 edit: 1 in 41, length = 36 inches.
Low pressure/main chamber: 12-14 inches of 1 inch SCH40 PVC.
Valve: undecided, most likely a chamber sealing piston tee valve.
High pressure reservoir: approximately 16 inches of 2 inch SCH40 PVC.
The part I’m requesting help with:
The high pressure reservoir is filled to about 100PSI and is regulated down to about 30-40PSI, some how the regulated air is fed into the low pressure reservoir, and the valve is opened firing the arm.
The problems:
1. The filling of the low pressure reservoir.
2. opening the firing valve with out dumping the high pressure reservoir.

Ok that’s all I’ve got for now, questions, comments, and complaints are welcome
Thanks

judgment_arms wrote:Ok here is why you have to wad a paintball to get anything that could be called accuracy
The first one is what would happen if you had rifled barrel that a paintball would fit tightly in.
The second is why any paintball gun, smoothbore or not, would be inaccurate if the paintball doesn’t fit tightly.
And the third is the solution.

NOTE:
The picture is by no means accurate, if the rifling were really that steep the projectile, no mater how tight fitting, would not take to the rifling, you’d be lucky if that’s all that happened.

search around.. some place funded by the military found that the best fit is a paintball that touches the barrel on two sides. pour flour down your barrel, slide a ball through it, and if there are two lines opposit of each other you got a good fit.

Or, backspin the paintballs.

If you give them backspin, then they'll both get a little more range, and they'll be damned accurate.

Rifling has the issue that you lose muzzle velocity to convert that into rotation. Backspin does the same, but to a lesser effect (I think anyway).

Rifling also needs more work to get it right - if you have your rate of twist just a fraction too low, you'll lose lots of accuracy. Spin is less picky.

Ragnarok fitted a spin inducer to his latest pneumatic cannon (via his twist lock muzzle system), and it's now possible for him (or me for that matter) to hit a 1' square target with a steel ball bearing - at over 100 yards.

Wadding makes a round more inaccurate.