Ignition and Fan Control Box
Posted: Sun May 04, 2008 10:29 pm
Well, this certainly isn't the best. Nothing real fancy like 100 kV output or remote ignition, but I figured for a guy like me who didn't know the difference between series and parallel circuits a few months ago (learned a lot in physics class this year), it's pretty good.
This will be for my next project. Don't ask anything about it because I don't like divulging volatile details.
Anyways, it controls the fan (runs off of 18 volts... only two volts above the maximum rated voltage), and the ignition is mounted in it. I originally was planning to use a small ignition coil and capacitor to produce the spark, but for now I bought a $16 electronic BBQ sparker from Wally World and used that.
Don't have any pictures, but I do have a small video of it working. The jury-rigged spark gap in this video is just one output of the igniter (there are two outputs, one for the main grill and another for the side burner). I will use both outputs to get a total of three gaps in the chamber. The LED was accomplished by wiring a 560-ohm resistor and LED in parallel with the fan, and the switch wired in series before each leg.
Anyways, here's the video.
Here lies a dead YouTube video
In the end, current will be transferred to the fan and spark gaps through the screws that hold the box in place on the chamber and some other small #6 brass threaded rod.
This will be for my next project. Don't ask anything about it because I don't like divulging volatile details.
Anyways, it controls the fan (runs off of 18 volts... only two volts above the maximum rated voltage), and the ignition is mounted in it. I originally was planning to use a small ignition coil and capacitor to produce the spark, but for now I bought a $16 electronic BBQ sparker from Wally World and used that.
Don't have any pictures, but I do have a small video of it working. The jury-rigged spark gap in this video is just one output of the igniter (there are two outputs, one for the main grill and another for the side burner). I will use both outputs to get a total of three gaps in the chamber. The LED was accomplished by wiring a 560-ohm resistor and LED in parallel with the fan, and the switch wired in series before each leg.
Anyways, here's the video.
Here lies a dead YouTube video
In the end, current will be transferred to the fan and spark gaps through the screws that hold the box in place on the chamber and some other small #6 brass threaded rod.
